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  • ToddL214
    Finished!
    Those replacement bulkheads look great and appear to match well to the other woodwork I can see in the photos. I'll try to figure out how to...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    You can use both panels at the same time. Because they are completely seperate sytems. The only reason you have a master over ride switch on you...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    I am replacing the original panel all together. The original panel is not waterproof and is down by the floor. I'm also adding circuits. The...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    Yes, you can have the DC panel & the AC panel active at the same time. They are electricity seperate systems.
  • hudson_rogue
    SERENITY
    And you don't have an override like on a house generator breaker, you just make sure all switches except your master/battery switch are off while...

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DSC01032 Each spring after getting her bottom painted and loaded back on the trailer, I get the mast up. If some metal crook want to take this mast he's going to have to take it down. Anyway, I always mount the boom and set up a tarp over it so I can work on the boat in days of inclement weather. The tarp also keeps the dew and the leaves out.

DSC01032 Each spring after getting her bottom painted and loaded back on the trailer, I get the mast up. If some metal crook want to take this mast he's going to have to take it down. Anyway, I always mount the boom and set up a tarp over it so I can work on the boat in days of inclement weather. The tarp also keeps the dew and the leaves out.

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DSC01116 That tarp over my boom is an 8'X10' and the other two are 5'x7' tarps. The grommets on these tarps are never place where you really need them. When I buy my tarps I always find the center of each long end of the tarp and install a 1/2" grommet. I also buy some 3/16" braid line and cut them at various lengths for the tie downs. On my boom tarp I installed doubled each line for the mast and end of boom tie offs and installed cow hitches. For the rest of the tarp I just tied single lines of various lengths needed for the lifeline tie offs.

DSC01116 That tarp over my boom is an 8'X10' and the other two are 5'x7' tarps. The grommets on these tarps are never place where you really need them. When I buy my tarps I always find the center of each long end of the tarp and install a 1/2" grommet. I also buy some 3/16" braid line and cut them at various lengths for the tie downs. On my boom tarp I installed doubled each line for the mast and end of boom tie offs and installed cow hitches. For the rest of the tarp I just tied single lines of various lengths needed for the lifeline tie offs.

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Finished extrusion 002 This is the finished extrusion. Well,-almost finished. I later added two more bolts to it. What you see is a Trex plug that fits into the mast and it's sitting on a 1/4" Aluminum plate with two pieces of PVC trim board bolted to the top tabernacle plate. I cut some kerfs on the edge of the Trex where it fits into the mast. Hopefully, any water that gets in the mast will drain right out through these kerfs. I don't know if anyone out there has ever done this. Maybe I'm the first. All I can tell you is, so far it's worked out fine.

Finished extrusion 002 This is the finished extrusion. Well,-almost finished. I later added two more bolts to it. What you see is a Trex plug that fits into the mast and it's sitting on a 1/4" Aluminum plate with two pieces of PVC trim board bolted to the top tabernacle plate. I cut some kerfs on the edge of the Trex where it fits into the mast. Hopefully, any water that gets in the mast will drain right out through these kerfs. I don't know if anyone out there has ever done this. Maybe I'm the first. All I can tell you is, so far it's worked out fine.

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Tabernacle 002 Shortly after I left that other welder with the dollar signs in his eyes, I thought about making up the 2" with 1" thick pieces of Trex. I had to use the Stainless Steel plug for now so that I could get back out on the water. My son came down with his Makita crosscut saw with a carbide tip blade and he cut the bottom of my mast. I then made up this temporary mast extrusion and was back on the water in less than two weeks. This extrusion is a bit heavy and it's ugly, but it worked. It was worse than ugly. It looked down right fugly. :)

Tabernacle 002 Shortly after I left that other welder with the dollar signs in his eyes, I thought about making up the 2" with 1" thick pieces of Trex. I had to use the Stainless Steel plug for now so that I could get back out on the water. My son came down with his Makita crosscut saw with a carbide tip blade and he cut the bottom of my mast. I then made up this temporary mast extrusion and was back on the water in less than two weeks. This extrusion is a bit heavy and it's ugly, but it worked. It was worse than ugly. It looked down right fugly. :)

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DSC01267 This isn't the original mast tabernacle that came with my boat when I bought it new. It came with an el cheapo French made cast Aluminum extrusion with a small sheave at the bottom for the internal Jib halyard to pass through and I hated this set up with a passion. After losing my mast back in the 1990s out of Newport RI, I had Rig-Rite in Warwick RI make me up a new mast. This time I wanted it made up to my specs and that included a stainless Steel hinge plate. This plate is a Dwyer and the utility plate is a Kenyon, I think. He told me to mount a block on the cabin to make up up 1-1/8" under the hinge plate so that my upper stays would fit. He gave me the plates and I mounted them to a 5"X7" Teak block like what you see in the pic. The rigger had to make a mast plug to attached the upper plate to the bottom of the mast. I wish he'd have made it out of Aluminum instead of Stainless Steel. Years later my mast started corroding and I had to take it to a marine welder. You can see in the pic where he welded, but the whole bottom of the mast was thin and getting ready to blow out.

DSC01267 This isn't the original mast tabernacle that came with my boat when I bought it new. It came with an el cheapo French made cast Aluminum extrusion with a small sheave at the bottom for the internal Jib halyard to pass through and I hated this set up with a passion. After losing my mast back in the 1990s out of Newport RI, I had Rig-Rite in Warwick RI make me up a new mast. This time I wanted it made up to my specs and that included a stainless Steel hinge plate. This plate is a Dwyer and the utility plate is a Kenyon, I think. He told me to mount a block on the cabin to make up up 1-1/8" under the hinge plate so that my upper stays would fit. He gave me the plates and I mounted them to a 5"X7" Teak block like what you see in the pic. The rigger had to make a mast plug to attached the upper plate to the bottom of the mast. I wish he'd have made it out of Aluminum instead of Stainless Steel. Years later my mast started corroding and I had to take it to a marine welder. You can see in the pic where he welded, but the whole bottom of the mast was thin and getting ready to blow out.

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006 A marine welder looked at my mast and told me, "to fix that mast, the labor alone would be about $300." I thought to myself, "I don't think so." My mast is Z-Spar and they don't make a casting for this mast that would work for me. He told me that I'd have to cut at least 2" off the bottom of my mast. I would need to make up 2.25". When you have a problem like this you need to think outside of the box. He's thinking, "weld" with dollar signs rolling around in his eyes, and I'm thinking, "just make up 2.25" between the mast and the upper hinge plate." That board under my Tabernacle is a piece of Trex that I used to replace the old Teak board that I had under it. I use stainless steel wood screws to secure the extrusion to the mast. I'm also using Nylon washer to insulate the screws along with a small dab of Never-Seize.

006 A marine welder looked at my mast and told me, "to fix that mast, the labor alone would be about $300." I thought to myself, "I don't think so." My mast is Z-Spar and they don't make a casting for this mast that would work for me. He told me that I'd have to cut at least 2" off the bottom of my mast. I would need to make up 2.25". When you have a problem like this you need to think outside of the box. He's thinking, "weld" with dollar signs rolling around in his eyes, and I'm thinking, "just make up 2.25" between the mast and the upper hinge plate." That board under my Tabernacle is a piece of Trex that I used to replace the old Teak board that I had under it. I use stainless steel wood screws to secure the extrusion to the mast. I'm also using Nylon washer to insulate the screws along with a small dab of Never-Seize.

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005 This is what I call a mod of necessity. I made up this permanent extrusion last year. It's a long story but in essence what happened was the bottom of my mast rotted out and I had to cut 2" off it and make up the difference with some material that I've never used before.

005 This is what I call a mod of necessity. I made up this permanent extrusion last year. It's a long story but in essence what happened was the bottom of my mast rotted out and I had to cut 2" off it and make up the difference with some material that I've never used before.

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Taking the mast down 004 In this pic you can see the line going around the Vinyl luff and the two half hitches tied around the Gin Pole. The round turn with the two half hitch are behind the Vinyl Luff in the pic and can't be seen. If you want to raise/lower your mast with a roller furler all by yourself, this is a pretty nice way to do it because the furler will stay put all the way up or down and this is what you want. Otherwise, if the furler gets loose and goes over the side, so goes your mast.

Taking the mast down 004 In this pic you can see the line going around the Vinyl luff and the two half hitches tied around the Gin Pole. The round turn with the two half hitch are behind the Vinyl Luff in the pic and can't be seen. If you want to raise/lower your mast with a roller furler all by yourself, this is a pretty nice way to do it because the furler will stay put all the way up or down and this is what you want. Otherwise, if the furler gets loose and goes over the side, so goes your mast.

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Taking the mast down 005 The Rolling Hitch is tied to the luff and the knot can be slip up or down very easy until tension is applied to the standing part of the line. I usually slide it up so that it's about 1.5' above the Gin Pole. I also tie this rope around the Gin pole about 2/3s of the way out beyond the mast. The Jib Halyard needs to be connected to the top of the Gin Pole and the Boom Vang needs to be taken up so that it is applying the down tension to the bottom end of the Gin Pole. With the hitch tied to the luff, I can wrap the line around the Gin Pole and try and pull the slack out to get the luff nice and tight. Then I take a round turn of the line around the Gin Pole and put two half hitches on the line. The round turn will keep the half hitches from jamming when you go to remove it. The next step is to take the excess line around the Vinyl luff and entrap it to the Gin Pole by using a couple of half hitches tied around the Gin Pole. All we're doing here is keeping the Vinyl luff secured close the the Gin Pole to prevent it from flopping around.

Taking the mast down 005 The Rolling Hitch is tied to the luff and the knot can be slip up or down very easy until tension is applied to the standing part of the line. I usually slide it up so that it's about 1.5' above the Gin Pole. I also tie this rope around the Gin pole about 2/3s of the way out beyond the mast. The Jib Halyard needs to be connected to the top of the Gin Pole and the Boom Vang needs to be taken up so that it is applying the down tension to the bottom end of the Gin Pole. With the hitch tied to the luff, I can wrap the line around the Gin Pole and try and pull the slack out to get the luff nice and tight. Then I take a round turn of the line around the Gin Pole and put two half hitches on the line. The round turn will keep the half hitches from jamming when you go to remove it. The next step is to take the excess line around the Vinyl luff and entrap it to the Gin Pole by using a couple of half hitches tied around the Gin Pole. All we're doing here is keeping the Vinyl luff secured close the the Gin Pole to prevent it from flopping around.

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Taking the mast down 001 Here's where the "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" really comes in handy. In the pic, I have my vinyl furler luff tied off to my Gin Pole with this hitch wrapped around the luff a couple of feet up over the Pole.

Taking the mast down 001 Here's where the "Lineman's Rolling Hitch" really comes in handy. In the pic, I have my vinyl furler luff tied off to my Gin Pole with this hitch wrapped around the luff a couple of feet up over the Pole.

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IMG 0005 The only way I could gain access to the nuts and bolts that hold the jam cleat was to install a 4" Beckson Deck Plate in my fuel locker. You can see it in the pic. I even have access to my stern cleat now. I think I paid $4.00 for the deck plate and $2.00 for the cleat at that same marine consignment shop. Such a deal! :)

IMG 0005 The only way I could gain access to the nuts and bolts that hold the jam cleat was to install a 4" Beckson Deck Plate in my fuel locker. You can see it in the pic. I even have access to my stern cleat now. I think I paid $4.00 for the deck plate and $2.00 for the cleat at that same marine consignment shop. Such a deal! :)

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IMG 0009 I mounted single sheaves to the lifeline stanchion bases for the control line. If you're thinking of buying a furler, figure on getting enough line to go back to where ever you want your cleat plus what you need for wraps around your drum when the sail is pulled out.

IMG 0009 I mounted single sheaves to the lifeline stanchion bases for the control line. If you're thinking of buying a furler, figure on getting enough line to go back to where ever you want your cleat plus what you need for wraps around your drum when the sail is pulled out.

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IMG 0007 Here's a better pic of the cleat. The long section of the cleat is where it jams or snubs off the line. This is great if you need to reef your Gennie.

IMG 0007 Here's a better pic of the cleat. The long section of the cleat is where it jams or snubs off the line. This is great if you need to reef your Gennie.

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IMG 0006 I needed to move my roller furler drum control line cleat to a spot on the combing where I could reach it easy for single handing. These boats came with a regular horn cleat on the Starboard corner of the cabin. Not good, IMO. The cleat in the pic is a used jam cleat which I picked up real cheap in a marine consignment shop in Newport RI. You only need to take one turn of the line around the cleat and it should jam. The cleat needs to be mounted at a slight angle for this to work though. I had to mount the cleat straight because the combing is too narrow, but adding a single sheave to my stern rail provides that needed angle provided that your wrap the control line around the jam cleat clockwise.

IMG 0006 I needed to move my roller furler drum control line cleat to a spot on the combing where I could reach it easy for single handing. These boats came with a regular horn cleat on the Starboard corner of the cabin. Not good, IMO. The cleat in the pic is a used jam cleat which I picked up real cheap in a marine consignment shop in Newport RI. You only need to take one turn of the line around the cleat and it should jam. The cleat needs to be mounted at a slight angle for this to work though. I had to mount the cleat straight because the combing is too narrow, but adding a single sheave to my stern rail provides that needed angle provided that your wrap the control line around the jam cleat clockwise.

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IMG 0001 While I was working on cutting that bulkhead for my boat hook and whisker pole, I built this combination shelf/towel rack and secured it to that bulkhead by the companionway. You can see my boat hook in the pic. Hey, there's a picture of Penelope! She's my First Mate don't sha' know. :)

IMG 0001 While I was working on cutting that bulkhead for my boat hook and whisker pole, I built this combination shelf/towel rack and secured it to that bulkhead by the companionway. You can see my boat hook in the pic. Hey, there's a picture of Penelope! She's my First Mate don't sha' know. :)

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DSC01189 Here's what that cubby hole looks like without the rear bulkhead. As you can see, there's plenty of room in there for long poles. You know? The great thing about storing the poles in this area is; when you enter my cabin, you can't even see these poles. The Whisker Pole is hiding behind the companionway bulkhead and you would need to take a peak into that cubby hole to see it. Otherwise you would know it was in there. These cabins are small and you need every bit of useful space that you can get. I've even omitted the mattresses that were in there to gain more space and obtain easier access to my compartments. OK,--so it's only four inches by a few feet but my gear slide in and out of there a lot easier than over a mattress. I'm even able to put my extra 26 quart cooler into that Port cubby hole. Plus the fact that my cabin seems to look less cluttered now.

DSC01189 Here's what that cubby hole looks like without the rear bulkhead. As you can see, there's plenty of room in there for long poles. You know? The great thing about storing the poles in this area is; when you enter my cabin, you can't even see these poles. The Whisker Pole is hiding behind the companionway bulkhead and you would need to take a peak into that cubby hole to see it. Otherwise you would know it was in there. These cabins are small and you need every bit of useful space that you can get. I've even omitted the mattresses that were in there to gain more space and obtain easier access to my compartments. OK,--so it's only four inches by a few feet but my gear slide in and out of there a lot easier than over a mattress. I'm even able to put my extra 26 quart cooler into that Port cubby hole. Plus the fact that my cabin seems to look less cluttered now.

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Mother of all mods 005 I figured, what the hey, I'll hang my fishing pole up in there too.

Mother of all mods 005 I figured, what the hey, I'll hang my fishing pole up in there too.

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Mother of all mods 003 I had bought some stainless steel hooks years ago and never used them because of the fabric headliner material in my cabin. The only quick solution for using them was to screw them to small square pieces of 1/4" plywood and cementing Velcro to the backs. It works. You need to buy the Velcro in an automotive store. Regular Walmart Velcro really isn't strong enough to hold boat poles.

Mother of all mods 003 I had bought some stainless steel hooks years ago and never used them because of the fabric headliner material in my cabin. The only quick solution for using them was to screw them to small square pieces of 1/4" plywood and cementing Velcro to the backs. It works. You need to buy the Velcro in an automotive store. Regular Walmart Velcro really isn't strong enough to hold boat poles.

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Mother of all mods 004 If you look to the right in this pic you can see my whisker pole laying against the side of the inside cockpit. My "pig stick" and 12' telescopic boat pole are on the other side against the inside hull.

Mother of all mods 004 If you look to the right in this pic you can see my whisker pole laying against the side of the inside cockpit. My "pig stick" and 12' telescopic boat pole are on the other side against the inside hull.

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Mother of all mods 001 I call this The Mother of all mods." It turned out to be one of the most clever and easy mods I've ever to this boat. Why didn't I think of this one before? We're looking aft in that Starboard quarter birth cubby hole. That rear plywood bulkhead used to extend up into that inside combing and I remember removing it years ago when I refinished all my woodwork but I couldn't remember if there was any useful space in there. So I figured that if I could remove that bulkhead I could find out real quick. I've always needed a place to hang my boat hook and just recently my friend Del Grindle gave me a nice Forespar Whisker pole which is about 6.5' when it's closed. At any rate, I removed the bulkhead and cut it. I made a Teak cap rail for it and like a dumbbell I decided to cover it with rug. I could have done the same thing with pine! Oh well. Some days you just can't win for losing. :)

Mother of all mods 001 I call this The Mother of all mods." It turned out to be one of the most clever and easy mods I've ever to this boat. Why didn't I think of this one before? We're looking aft in that Starboard quarter birth cubby hole. That rear plywood bulkhead used to extend up into that inside combing and I remember removing it years ago when I refinished all my woodwork but I couldn't remember if there was any useful space in there. So I figured that if I could remove that bulkhead I could find out real quick. I've always needed a place to hang my boat hook and just recently my friend Del Grindle gave me a nice Forespar Whisker pole which is about 6.5' when it's closed. At any rate, I removed the bulkhead and cut it. I made a Teak cap rail for it and like a dumbbell I decided to cover it with rug. I could have done the same thing with pine! Oh well. Some days you just can't win for losing. :)

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DSC00738 In the picture you see my traveler, and manual bilge pump. Also pictured is the mount for my galley table which has a similar mount down below on the galley cabinet. By the way. I replaced that Nic Fico Traveler with a Harken rope and pulley traveler last summer of 2012. What a difference that made on my boat! The pump handle is detachable and the plate is inserted back in the hole. I've never had to use this pump. Thank the good Lord for small favors.

DSC00738 In the picture you see my traveler, and manual bilge pump. Also pictured is the mount for my galley table which has a similar mount down below on the galley cabinet. By the way. I replaced that Nic Fico Traveler with a Harken rope and pulley traveler last summer of 2012. What a difference that made on my boat! The pump handle is detachable and the plate is inserted back in the hole. I've never had to use this pump. Thank the good Lord for small favors.

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NOW WE HAVE STARTED THE RECOVERY JOB

NOW WE HAVE STARTED THE RECOVERY JOB

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WE BOUGHT THE BOAT IN BAD CONDITIONS

WE BOUGHT THE BOAT IN BAD CONDITIONS

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REFITTING WASHING TANK REPLACEMENT

REFITTING WASHING TANK REPLACEMENT

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