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  • ToddL214
    Finished!
    Those replacement bulkheads look great and appear to match well to the other woodwork I can see in the photos. I'll try to figure out how to...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    You can use both panels at the same time. Because they are completely seperate sytems. The only reason you have a master over ride switch on you...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    I am replacing the original panel all together. The original panel is not waterproof and is down by the floor. I'm also adding circuits. The...
  • Captain Grey Beard
    SERENITY
    Yes, you can have the DC panel & the AC panel active at the same time. They are electricity seperate systems.
  • hudson_rogue
    SERENITY
    And you don't have an override like on a house generator breaker, you just make sure all switches except your master/battery switch are off while...

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Hunter 326 Inis next to the famous london bridge

Hunter 326 Inis next to the famous london bridge

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water over the rail

water over the rail

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Hunter op zee

Hunter op zee

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Spindrift on mooring in South Hero, Vermont.

Spindrift on mooring in South Hero, Vermont.

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Spindrift Sodus Bay minutes before heading out for a 30 mile trip to Oswego. This is the first time on the boat, strong winds, 8 foot seas, end of April so water temps about 40 degrees. Pictured is my father.

Spindrift Sodus Bay minutes before heading out for a 30 mile trip to Oswego. This is the first time on the boat, strong winds, 8 foot seas, end of April so water temps about 40 degrees. Pictured is my father.

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BBQ mounted between stern seats

BBQ mounted between stern seats

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Companionway Doors

Companionway Doors

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Myassis Dragon Decal

Myassis Dragon Decal

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sunrise at Redbud Marina

sunrise at Redbud Marina

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New Bottom Coat

New Bottom Coat

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San juan 21-2

San juan 21-2

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P365

P365

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Ory

Ory

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IMG 0008a When you're all finished caulking that side, insert the rubber and screw with the cup washer and remove the rubber that goes around the other side of the boat and follow the same procedure. Everything should go right back in place when you get through. When I work on my boat I try to use the KISS method. If you find an easier way to do this job let me know.

IMG 0008a When you're all finished caulking that side, insert the rubber and screw with the cup washer and remove the rubber that goes around the other side of the boat and follow the same procedure. Everything should go right back in place when you get through. When I work on my boat I try to use the KISS method. If you find an easier way to do this job let me know.

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IMG 0007a When I finished caulking under the molding I added a small dab of caulking to threads of each screw and inserted them into the moldings. This way, you get a double seal inside the screw hole and outside of the molding under the rubber after it's inserted. After I removed the rubber, I washed it in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water. It made the rubber soft and pliable It also provided some lubrication to make it easir to reinsert back in the track or groove.

IMG 0007a When I finished caulking under the molding I added a small dab of caulking to threads of each screw and inserted them into the moldings. This way, you get a double seal inside the screw hole and outside of the molding under the rubber after it's inserted. After I removed the rubber, I washed it in a 5 gallon bucket of soapy water. It made the rubber soft and pliable It also provided some lubrication to make it easir to reinsert back in the track or groove.

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IMG 0006a I was able to do this job by myself because Aluminum is pretty easy to handle alone. I really don't know if this holds to with Vinyl. I've heard that it can break easy. You may want to have an extra pair of hands to hold it while you're trying to remove the moldings. Also, you may need to apply heat to the putty knife to separate the caulking from the Fiberglas. After removing the molding or moldings on one side of the boat you need to clean the area well with Acetone. In the pic you can see the heads of the screws that were used to join the deck to the hull. This is what you need to apply caulking to plus the for the screws that are used for the moldings. I really doubt if water will come in from under that lip, but if you feel that you need to run a bead of caulking on it, by all means knock yourself out.

IMG 0006a I was able to do this job by myself because Aluminum is pretty easy to handle alone. I really don't know if this holds to with Vinyl. I've heard that it can break easy. You may want to have an extra pair of hands to hold it while you're trying to remove the moldings. Also, you may need to apply heat to the putty knife to separate the caulking from the Fiberglas. After removing the molding or moldings on one side of the boat you need to clean the area well with Acetone. In the pic you can see the heads of the screws that were used to join the deck to the hull. This is what you need to apply caulking to plus the for the screws that are used for the moldings. I really doubt if water will come in from under that lip, but if you feel that you need to run a bead of caulking on it, by all means knock yourself out.

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IMG 0005a When this rubber is ready to be inserted back in the groove or track, it will butt up against the other end of the rubber and the screw hole should line up perfectly. For this reason, it's just easier to do one side of the boat at a time.

IMG 0005a When this rubber is ready to be inserted back in the groove or track, it will butt up against the other end of the rubber and the screw hole should line up perfectly. For this reason, it's just easier to do one side of the boat at a time.

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DSC01174 I don't know about your boat, but my boat has one continuous rubber that starts at the stern and butts up with the other end at the stern. In the pic you can see the two ends of the rubber held in place with wood screws and cup washers. It's foolish to remove this rubber completely out of the track all the way around and by the same token you don't want to remove all the moldings at once unless you need to. My suggestion to you is to remove the rubber on one side of the boat at a time. Find the break in the moldings somewhere near the bow where they butt up against each other and just remove the rubber and moldings to that point. There may be more unused screw holes in the moldings than there were screws installed at the factory, so I would advise you to mark the screw holes that were used. That way, all the screws go back where they were before you removed them.

DSC01174 I don't know about your boat, but my boat has one continuous rubber that starts at the stern and butts up with the other end at the stern. In the pic you can see the two ends of the rubber held in place with wood screws and cup washers. It's foolish to remove this rubber completely out of the track all the way around and by the same token you don't want to remove all the moldings at once unless you need to. My suggestion to you is to remove the rubber on one side of the boat at a time. Find the break in the moldings somewhere near the bow where they butt up against each other and just remove the rubber and moldings to that point. There may be more unused screw holes in the moldings than there were screws installed at the factory, so I would advise you to mark the screw holes that were used. That way, all the screws go back where they were before you removed them.

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Benson Bend 001 I use this hitch quite a bit to join two lines together. It's easy to tie and untie. If I had to choose between this hitch and two connected Bowlines, I would choose this one hands down.

Benson Bend 001 I use this hitch quite a bit to join two lines together. It's easy to tie and untie. If I had to choose between this hitch and two connected Bowlines, I would choose this one hands down.

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DSC01218 I'm also planning on cutting the mattresses in the V birth section. There will be no need for Velcro because these mattresses fit in this section like a puzzle and will stay put once they are in place. This new idea of cutting my mattress is still in the thought stages and nothing is etched in stone as of yet. It all hinges on whether I can get the material soon.

DSC01218 I'm also planning on cutting the mattresses in the V birth section. There will be no need for Velcro because these mattresses fit in this section like a puzzle and will stay put once they are in place. This new idea of cutting my mattress is still in the thought stages and nothing is etched in stone as of yet. It all hinges on whether I can get the material soon.

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DSC01385 If I cut these mattresses in half it will be easier for my wife to sew the new material. I'll have easier access to my two compartments when I need to get to my food storage containers. No more will I need to hold a long mattress up and out of the way with my head in order to get at the containers. Velcro can be used where the mattresses butt up against one another to keep them together.

DSC01385 If I cut these mattresses in half it will be easier for my wife to sew the new material. I'll have easier access to my two compartments when I need to get to my food storage containers. No more will I need to hold a long mattress up and out of the way with my head in order to get at the containers. Velcro can be used where the mattresses butt up against one another to keep them together.

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DSC01384 This pic shows my port quarter birth compartment. I keep all my can goods, and other food items in these 2.5 gal. plastic containers. I have three compartments on each side of the boat and in order to get at the two on each side that I use the most, I need to raise the mattress on that side and hold it with my head while I take the containers out of the compartment, which gets is to be a pain in the butt. I want to recover these mattresses with new material as soon as I can find some material that I like, cheap. My latest brain storm is to cut these mattress foams in half which will make it a lot easer to move out of the way to get at each of the two compartments on both sides of the boat. I can keep them joined with Velcro, as I have omitted the mattress under the cockpit on my boat. This is an idea that I've been kicking around for a while and I think it's doable.

DSC01384 This pic shows my port quarter birth compartment. I keep all my can goods, and other food items in these 2.5 gal. plastic containers. I have three compartments on each side of the boat and in order to get at the two on each side that I use the most, I need to raise the mattress on that side and hold it with my head while I take the containers out of the compartment, which gets is to be a pain in the butt. I want to recover these mattresses with new material as soon as I can find some material that I like, cheap. My latest brain storm is to cut these mattress foams in half which will make it a lot easer to move out of the way to get at each of the two compartments on both sides of the boat. I can keep them joined with Velcro, as I have omitted the mattress under the cockpit on my boat. This is an idea that I've been kicking around for a while and I think it's doable.

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Picture 1686 (2)

Picture 1686 (2)

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Picture 1630 (3)

Picture 1630 (3)

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