stainless cleaner

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Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
came across this product yesterday, they were advertising on one of the forums (this one I think)
http://www.spotlessstainless.com/

has anyone had experience with this product? specifically I'm wondering;
does it have any negative affects on the metal or surrounding material (they claim no)?
does it work as well as they claim?
are there other products out there that work better/safer/same but cheaper?
 

RichH

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Feb 14, 2005
4,773
Tayana 37 cutter; I20/M20 SCOWS Worton Creek, MD
"are there other products out there that work better/safer/same but cheaper?"

Plain old citric acid .... found in lemon juice, coca-cola and other soft drinks not as high in potency as the spotless stainless product ... just takes longer.

BTW citric acid also works on removing the green 'verdigris' from bronze.
 

Bob S

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Sep 27, 2007
1,774
Beneteau 393 New Bedford, MA
I think Sailingdog recommended it last year. He seemed to like it, do a search. It must be a nitric acid base. They use nitric acid to passivate stainless. You'd have to be careful of any aluminum (rub rail).
 
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Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
has anyone had experience with this product? specifically I'm wondering;
does it have any negative affects on the metal or surrounding material (they claim no)?
I would be very careful around Awlgrip but it will be fine on gelcoat. Personally I would not like to see it sit on anodized aluminum for a long period either but that is just me being cautious.



does it work as well as they claim?
Yes it does work as advertised but it does require patience as it is not a fast product.

are there other products out there that work better/safer/same but cheaper?
No, not that I have found and this is why the makers developed this product. Nitric and citric acid are the only acids safe for re-passivization of SS. Nitric will never be sold to the DIY market thus that leaves only citric acid. Wichard used to make a re-passivation paste but it was a LOT more expensive and does not work nearly as well as Spotless Stainless.

Here is a review I posted a month or so ago. I really do love the stuff..



Spotless Stainless (LINK)
= Direct mail order only

The stuff works quite well though is a tad slow and on some older stuff and may require two applications.

Some things I have learned about it.

Do not use in direct sun
Do use it on a warm humid evening so evaporation is kept down
It won't work well in cooler temps
Work on the shaded side of the boat if working during sun up hours
Don't stand their watching it


Here are the ACTUAL photos of Spotless Stainless working. Thanks for inducing me into getting around to uploading them..;)

Temp 68F, humidity 63%, set time 1:20 minutes, only because I got side tracked. I can't accurately comment on how long it actually took to get that clean. This was a 25 year old Wichard snap shackle that I have had on a number of halyards. The surface is pitted from time and exposure, and the Spotless Stainless won't fix pitting, but it did and does remove the rust very well even if a little slow. In higher temps and humidity it does seem to work faster. Below 70 degrees it seems to begin to slow down.

It is what it is:

Before:


During:


After Rinsing:



Not bad for doing nothing but brushing it on, letting it sit and rinsing it.

Oh and YES I do find it a tad expensive but don't doubt the price will come down when volume eventually goes up.

Yesterday the boat was on the mooring and after a sail I busted out the SS and a chip brush. Worked up near the bow. While waiting I got some paperwork done then went back and rinsed it off. Overall really, really easy. The ability to clean stainless while I am doing work for my "real job" is really quite nice..

For rinsing it I used a bucket of water and a wet microfiber rag. I did not feel like going into the dock to rinse down or to get out out my on-board hose. Rinsed off fine..

I also tested a spot where I waxed over some rust purposely. It does not work very well unless the stainless is unprotected and may take considerably more time or perhaps not work at all depending upon how thick the wax coating is.

These pics were all taken yesterday 6/23/10..

Before:


During:


After:


These pics were all taken yesterday 6/23/10..





Temps were 78F with about 84% RH and it worked in about 30 minutes today. It was however direct sun so I had to keep it wet. I discovered that you can cover it with a dampened and wrung out microfiber rag and it keeps it wet longer.

Keep it wet and use in warm temps and the stuff really works and leaves a very nice shiny surface.

For experimentation's sake I tried it on a seacock. I also used a Mr. Clean Magic Eraser with the Spotless Stainless. This took a long time, a lot longer then the stainless, but the results were great when it finally had enough time to do its work. Getting through the verdigris took a while but this is right next to my nav station where I was working so it was easy to keep an eye on the progress..

I don't advise using the product in this manner, not its intended use, but I did do it.


 

Bob S

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Sep 27, 2007
1,774
Beneteau 393 New Bedford, MA
Maine,

When you rinse it does or will it effect your nice Collinite wax job? I'm sure it's an acid based product. I like that it's a paste.
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Maine Sail:

Have you ever tried cleaning the SS with Oxalic Acid? It is listed as a possilble cleaner for SS, but I am wondering how well it works compared to some of these other products.
 
Sep 25, 2008
615
Morgan 415 Out Island Rogersville, AL
I used it last month for the first time on my boat. Because of the July heat (north AL), it was next to impossible to keep from drying out. It looses it's strength when it dries out, requiring more applications.
 
Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
Thanks Maine, looks like I missed that earlier post, stuff looks good, I think I'm going to order...

btw, did you take a look at the PM I sent you last week?
 

Rick I

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Jan 6, 2007
414
CS36Merlin and Beneteau 393 - Toronto
I got a free sample of Spotless Stainless last year and it worked well. My only problem is it has to be warm and usually the sun is shining so I keep it wet with a spray bottle as it should not dry out. I also use Barkeepers Friend (oxalic acid) and the Spotless stuff is a lot easier and seems to come up shinier. I'll be buying a big jug when I go down to the boat in the fall.
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,107
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Oxalic Acid vs. SS Rust

Maine Sail:

Have you ever tried cleaning the SS with Oxalic Acid? It is listed as a possilble cleaner for SS, but I am wondering how well it works compared to some of these other products.
I'm also intrigued because I've had success with oxalic acid removing rust stains from sails and also from anti-skid areas of my deck that were subject to years of constant dripping of rain and seawater off now replaced old SS standing rigging.

I happened to be home when I saw your query. In my garage stock of safe-and-sound (well probably not all of them) home chemicals, I had oxalic acid crystals. Disolved some in jar with water and placed in a surface-rusted SS shackle pin. 20 minutes later the rust was in fact gone. (See attached pics).

BUT, I also put some of the oxalic solution on a weld on the underneath side of a cheek block that had some rust in the weld crevices. The rust disappeared, but the before the surrounding SS surface was very shiny, almost mirror-like. After the application, the surface was dull. I suspect that the oxalic acid also has etched SS a bit, indicating maybe a quick return to surface rust? It doesn't look like the surface will be chemically passivated which is the expectation from the "Spotless Stainless" product.

I'll attach the cleaned shackle to the base of a stanchion on my boat and observe it over the next few weeks and months.
 

Attachments

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Apr 8, 2010
1,606
Frers 33 41426 Westport, CT
hard to tell from those pics (kinda blury) but it looks like the pitting might have been there from the begining, and maybe that's why it isn't as shiny?
 
Jun 21, 2007
2,107
Hunter Cherubini 36_80-82 Sausalito / San Francisco Bay
Dear Fourpoints:

The finish dulling I observed was on the ss backside of a check block that before the oxalic acid was really shiny -- except for the little bid of rust around a weld spot. After the acid the rust was gone. But also the shiny adjacent surface was converted to much duller metal gray.

I did not take a picture of this because the difference just wouldn't have been picked up by a camera. But yes, I've got to learn the close-up focussing technique on my camera better. The close-up mode seems to be tempermental. This time, the background surface is in perfect focus but the object is a bit bluring. Anyway, the pics do show: Rust before ... No rust after.
 
Sep 15, 2009
6,243
S2 9.2a Fairhope Al
Dear Fourpoints:



But yes, I've got to learn the close-up focussing technique on my camera better. The close-up mode seems to be tempermental. This time, the background surface is in perfect focus but the object is a bit bluring. .

if you have a auto focus camera you may want to put in on dept of field...refocus and then shoot your pic ....give it a go and see what happens ...

regards

woody
 
Dec 2, 1999
15,184
Hunter Vision-36 Rio Vista, CA.
Rardi:

Have you tried polishing the block? I am wondering if it is some residual from the oxalic acid. There was no mention of this in ANY article that I read about it.

Oxalic acid is one of the primary ingredients in non-skid deck wash. You can purchase oxalic acid for about $4-5/lb. I doubt that the quart bottle that you purchase from your favorite marine store has more than a couple of ounces in a single bottle.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
hardware store like Ace or Tru Valu
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,674
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Stronger acids are fine for cleaning gelcoat and rust stains from non-metalic surfaces and will work very well though you need to be very careful around Awlgrip and painted surfaces.

I have indeed used oxalic acid on stainless but quite by accident. It seriously dulled the finish and then caused it to rust at a rate that was drastically faster than before I hit it with the acid and I literally had to remove the item from the boat and bring it home and polish it on my bench polisher. It will remove the rust but it also removes something else that is helping it seal itself from the rust..

As I mentioned before the only two acids that will re-passivate stainless are nitric and citric. I suspect that more potent acids like oxalic attacks the chromium leaving the stainless less able to build a chromium oxide layer thus sealing itself and preventing rust.

Spotless Stainless is both a cleaner and a protector in that it re-passivates the stainless so that it can do a better job protecting itself.
 
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