Yes, full fixed keel. My rudder does look a little shorter but I think that's a picture illusion. I use that cockpit area to clean fish. Don't add an old battery to a new one on same bank. I need to add 2 more batteries second bank and a solar power biv. This picture is not my boat but that's my keel. This boat for sale Vermont.
New O'Day 25 owner
- Thread starter JRT
- Start date
I'm getting into this post late- I have had two 25s - still have the 2nd (ex got the first_)
Mine had 18" of water in it for some time, so the compression post and the bulkheads were toast- I gutted the entire interior and started over, using the old bulkheads and parts for patterns. The bulkheads WERE 1/2" I went to 3/4, which meant that everything had to be remeasured, but it's solid now...I had to jack up the headliner with a floor jack to get a tight fit- not much- maybe an inch max. The compression post was rotten at the end, so I made another out of an oak 2x4, which had to be rabbeted for the bulkhead that fits into it. The stern bottom corner was also tapered to allow you to tip it into place, with a bedding of poly. The top was a 1/4" press fit.
In both boats the starboard transom panel and the king plank were rotted out...tdhis i s common to 25s. That meant grinding out the old ones, which is a NOT FUN job. Took me 16 hours both times with a right angle grinder. You need a full bunny suit, ear pro and a respirator- a can type, not just a dust mask. If you can afford a full-face mask with an air supply, get it. You will be swimming in FG and wood. Working between the cockpit and transom is a real bitch..it's all one handed.
Install of the motor panel was three sheets of 1/4" ply ....This is a 2-person job. Determine where the through holes are going to be, hole drill those out to 1.5", tape one side, fill with thickened epoxy . Let set, sand smooth, then set the holes for all the motor mount holes while in place. . Wet out the transom inside, put thickened poly on it, set the first panel with poly on it, pulling it in with the holes you set for the motor mount. I had to drill about 6 extra holes in various spots to pull it in tight all across the 30". When all is dry, set the second and third panels with epoxy between them. Repeat for the king plank (photo, for example).
You will be doing a lot of drilling and placement, and it 's not fun, but the transom will be bomber when you are done.
I would also recommend just blowing the whole boat out and down...I put a window fan in the companion way and opened the forward hatch...get into the bilge and headliner everywhere, THEN run a hose under the cabin sole and wash all the crap out. It's amazing what you get.
Mine had 18" of water in it for some time, so the compression post and the bulkheads were toast- I gutted the entire interior and started over, using the old bulkheads and parts for patterns. The bulkheads WERE 1/2" I went to 3/4, which meant that everything had to be remeasured, but it's solid now...I had to jack up the headliner with a floor jack to get a tight fit- not much- maybe an inch max. The compression post was rotten at the end, so I made another out of an oak 2x4, which had to be rabbeted for the bulkhead that fits into it. The stern bottom corner was also tapered to allow you to tip it into place, with a bedding of poly. The top was a 1/4" press fit.
In both boats the starboard transom panel and the king plank were rotted out...tdhis i s common to 25s. That meant grinding out the old ones, which is a NOT FUN job. Took me 16 hours both times with a right angle grinder. You need a full bunny suit, ear pro and a respirator- a can type, not just a dust mask. If you can afford a full-face mask with an air supply, get it. You will be swimming in FG and wood. Working between the cockpit and transom is a real bitch..it's all one handed.
Install of the motor panel was three sheets of 1/4" ply ....This is a 2-person job. Determine where the through holes are going to be, hole drill those out to 1.5", tape one side, fill with thickened epoxy . Let set, sand smooth, then set the holes for all the motor mount holes while in place. . Wet out the transom inside, put thickened poly on it, set the first panel with poly on it, pulling it in with the holes you set for the motor mount. I had to drill about 6 extra holes in various spots to pull it in tight all across the 30". When all is dry, set the second and third panels with epoxy between them. Repeat for the king plank (photo, for example).
You will be doing a lot of drilling and placement, and it 's not fun, but the transom will be bomber when you are done.
I would also recommend just blowing the whole boat out and down...I put a window fan in the companion way and opened the forward hatch...get into the bilge and headliner everywhere, THEN run a hose under the cabin sole and wash all the crap out. It's amazing what you get.
Attachments
Quote Ritdog "starboard transom panel and the king plank were rotted out...tdhis i s common to 25s." Picture... Mine are good, thank you for making me look.
Attachments
Hey, is this white tank gas or water, it's clean, boat was ordered without diesel 4 but keep wondering about this. It wasn't secure like the front water tank but same material. It's like a 30 gallon. Thing is driving me nuts by not being sure, don't guess, I can do that but can't find proof of what it is. Thx
Attachments
Well we made our 2nd trip today. It was another transfer trip from the marina doing the repairs to our home marina. 12nm with my son, he did almost the whole 2 hr sail on the tiller. I only put up the main as I was not sure of the weather, and wanted to keep it simple with he and I.
Last edited:
@John Tubb
Here is a pic of my topping lift connection. I wanted an adjustable TL so I got some small blocks and made a 2-1 arrangement. At first I tied it off to the horn cleat. I then added the clam cleat with line keeper. When sailing I loosen it enough to let the TL hang behind the leach of the sail. A bit of overkill but works well.
When I first got the boat there was a carabiner clip hanging from the TL. It connected to a shackle on the boom and when sailing I clipped it to the aft stay.
You mentioned your centerboard was stuck up. I had that problem for the first couple of years. Would stick in the up position unless I left it down 6".
Thought the CB had swelled so sanded it down real good. No joy.
No swelling within the CB trunk.
Then found a V cut into the tube where the pendant came out. Thought the thicker part of the splice for the shackle to CB connection was sticking. Got a high tech line with splice which didn't have the long thicker section of a standard splice. No joy.
So I had a local machine shop fix me up with a SS insert with flared end which I epoxied into the bottom of the tube. No more V cut. To install it I had the yard raise the boat's cradle an additional 1' so I could really inspect the inside of the trunk. While installing the insert I noticed a scratch on the side of the trunk just below the pendant tube (see pic 2). I checked the shackle and clevis pin and found the clevis pin had been cut down from a longer pin AND it was too long! Just a few mm's too long but with the taper of the top of the trunk, the pin would get stuck before the board was all the way up. Had to get a new shackle from D&R Marine to get the correct pin (see pic 3)
One other thing to add to your list to check is the thru hull and valve for the galley sink drain. Mine had a gate valve, which I understand was standard on O'days back then. With a gate valve you cannot tell if it is open or close. I had mine replaced with a gate valve and I am glad I did. The inside valve of the gate valve was completely gone.
As for a bilge pump, I don't have one and don't see the need. Only one underwater thru hull which is kept closed unless needed. Rain water leaks kept to a minimum. I use the galley ice box for dry storage so no water from that.
Any water I find in the bilge can easily be sponged out.
If you had an inboard with a shaft going through the hull, then you would have nuisance water to get rid of but you don't. To me it seems like work, expense and maintenance for something with little pay back.
On boats with inboard motors you do need one as most shaft stuffing boxes depend on water to keep the stuffing cool so you get constant dripping into the bilge. On our boats with outboards, I just don't see the need.
The only time I found my bilge almost full was one winter when a freeze/thaw cycle cracked the cockpit drain thru hull, allowing thawed water to go into the bilge. I remove my battery so a bilge pump wouldn't have helped that.
Sounds like your son is now your boat driver and you both are having fun. Great!
Attachments
John,
I thought all O'day 25s have gas can lockers under one of the cockpit seats. This photo shows where mine is located. Maybe yours being a little older does not have one?
I took that photo as a reminder to get a new fuel line. That old one started to deteriorate on the outside and making a mess of the boat.
I thought all O'day 25s have gas can lockers under one of the cockpit seats. This photo shows where mine is located. Maybe yours being a little older does not have one?
I took that photo as a reminder to get a new fuel line. That old one started to deteriorate on the outside and making a mess of the boat.
Attachments
Lose the topping lift and get one of these, http://www.boomkicker.com/. They work great and no hassle.
@Oliver
Did your rudder damage the rub rail shown in the last photo? Or tiller handle?
Looks like you could get a short length of the holder and rubber insert from D&R Marine and fix that up. I had a section like that in the area of the head. The screws were loose and let in a lot of rain water. I replaced rub rail around the whole boat and that stopped most of my water intrusion.
Did your rudder damage the rub rail shown in the last photo? Or tiller handle?
Looks like you could get a short length of the holder and rubber insert from D&R Marine and fix that up. I had a section like that in the area of the head. The screws were loose and let in a lot of rain water. I replaced rub rail around the whole boat and that stopped most of my water intrusion.
Rub rail is on my short list, need all the way around, who has the deals? That happened before rebuild in dry dock, old owners. I use halyard and blankets for engine on and off. I can't do pictures of my Cunningham right now, storm coming and it's all covered up, later I will, I just bought new blocks and line. Learning butterfly hitch, "aspen" now for sail. Need tubing for outside mast stay still... so rubbing won't turn my line into pillow stuffing and it will, I proved it. Working on this picture now, bolt won't let go, they used that 3m cement instead of good clear silicon sealant, jerks.
Attachments
Finally someone saw my problem there, very good sir, I owe you a pint. I saw the very little block thing but there was no where to do anything with, that dam thing been driving my brain crazy for real. There expensive but now I know. Thank you. You can't see it in the picture but I have been using a real strong hand clamp to keep it where I want it, I also put in screw stops so it don't pop off, improvised to say the least.
Attachments
Last edited:
Never use Silicone on your boat, use this https://forums.sailboatowners.com/i...-deck-hardware-with-bed-it-butyl-tape.117172/
So trying to be respectful but, this is why you don't buy a beat up old boat. You spend more time maintaining, fixing things than sailing it. You have no money for improvements and upgrades as all your money goes in that hole in the water you are pouring money in to. Someone once said to me "do you want to fix it or sail it", I personally prefer to sail. Sorry, no offense meant but.... old boats require more time, effort, and money than some are worth.
Get one of these, bolts are adjustable so you can use your old holes. Seal with Butyl...
http://www.defender.com/product3.jsp?path=-1|118|2358559|2358567&id=3071278
Not that crap, the new stuff, the amount of petroleum distillate is key, too much in the old kind but don't want cement in a simple water tight light pressure bolt.
Last edited:
Quote CB, So trying to be respectful but, this is why you don't buy a beat up old boat. You spend more time maintaining, fixing things than sailing it. You have no money for improvements and upgrades as all your money goes in that hole in the water you are pouring money in to. Someone once said to me "do you want to fix it or sail it", I personally prefer to sail. Sorry, no offense meant but....old boats require more time, effort, and money than some are worth. Un quote,
You have completely lost your mind, so sad.
You have completely lost your mind, so sad.
I thought you wanted to race? Thought better of it against my floating anchor apparently. With all due respect sir, you have gone off topic here and if you can't see my point then yes, very sad indeed. Mind still where I keep it.
Back to helping the OP with his boat.