A "Refit" year, final decision.

[guidera48]

I will definatelly paint the track separate. I think there is enought play for it to slide back on without too much fuss. I have used clear, water soluble wire grease used to pull wires in conduit. Works well and does not stain the new paint.
By the way. How are the shrouts secured to the spreaders. I have a small stainless wire loop securing the shrout to the end of the spreader through a hole. Is this the correct set up??

 

[Bill1565]

Mine were secured with 3 figure 8's. Under/over loops

 

[Ed Schenck]

Bill, "three figure 8's"?! Where and how? My upper shrouds go over the ends of the spreaders through a notch. There is a stainless strap, one screw on each end of the strap, to secure the wire in the notch. Just as Jose described.

 

[Bill1565]

I have holes in the spreaders near the ends. when I took the mast down the shroud was held in place with wire wraps, so I bought some monel wire fish line and lashed the shrouds in place.

PS, I don't see where Jose said straps and screws.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Of all my pictures I do not have one of the spreader tips. My spreaders have an aluminum block inset at the tips, 3 or 4 inches long. That block has a notch in the center and two threaded screw holes an inch either side of the notch. A stainless strap goes over the shroud in the notch secured with two machine screws.

 

[Bill1565]

I think Ihave photos of my spreader tips, but I can't find them right now. Anyway, there are vertical holes about 1/16" dia drilled thru the spreader and the solid block.

I have had other boats where the shrouds were wired in place, so this seemed natural to me. Couldn't find monel seizing wire anywhere. Iit is all SS now and it work hardens immediately, so I bought a spool of 30# monel trolling wire from a salt water fishing site. It's a little small, I could have used 40#, but at least it is monel.

 

[guidera48]

Ed's spreader system seems like the ticket. My spreader ends just taper and have a notch were the cable beds in. The is some stainless wire wrapped on the cable above the tip, then through a hole in the tip and wrapped again on the cable below the tip. The wire is wrapped several times in this fashion. I just thought it looked sort of Micky Mouse. That's why I inquired as what every one else had.
I shall be looking for new monel wire, since the bolted strap system is not on my model.

 

[Bill1565]

Send me a PM with your address and I'll send you 10 feet or so of monel wire.. I already have 100 yards or so.

 

[Ed Schenck]

Today was devoted to keel work and mast stripping. Of the four keel areas that I faired only one really needed a second coat. It sanded easier than I thought with my Dewald. Next time up I will sand and put on four coats of barrier-coat. Wash and wax the starboard side and the hull is done til next spring.

It took me three hours and a sunburn to get the standing and running rigging off of the mast. That's a lot of wire and five halyards. So how does one know if it is time to replace the halyards? The main, spare, and spin halyards were new in 2000. The yankee(jib) and staysail halyards were from the 1998 purchase. I could not get the lower shroud brackets off of the mast.

Finally found the booms and unwrapped them from the drive up from Florida. An H37C main boom does not fit in a long wheelbase Ford E250. But now they are in the driveway. I'll test my painting ideas here at home before I tackle the mast.

Work at the marina goes on. They failed to get a spinnaker halyard into that H38 mast. It was blowing pretty good up there too.

 

[Jim Legere]

Re: A "Refit" year, final decision

Ed, I have just two halyards that exit on the port side of the mast - the staysail and the jib (the main is starboard). Is the third one your spinnaker haliyard? I don't think I have enough sheaves at the masthead - I don't know how I would get the spinnaker halyard inside the mast.

 

[Ed Schenck]

You have five sheaves Jim, four at the top and one on front for staysail. Starboard is main and yankee. Port is spare(top aft, attached to topping lift), spin(top, forward), and staysail. In the mast picture the brake is on the yankee, the exit below is the staysail, and I had to add a new exit for the spin(a radial drifter). At the top of the mast the spin halyard goes over the sheave AND through a block attached to that bale on the front of the mast. This allows me to tack the drifter around the front of the forestay.

 

[Jim Legere]

Re: A "Refit" year, final decision

Ed,

I plan on going aloft today or tomorrow - I'll check it out. My mast has the two forward halyards exiting port and the main halyard on starboard. I don't have anything attached to the bail at the mast head right now. Since my CDI furler basically has its own bult-in halyard for the yankee, I use what would normally be the jib halyard for my gennaker/drifter. I like the way you have the spinnaker halyard rigged on yours, so I will try to do that on mine. I also like the idea of a stopper on the mast - that would let me use the staysail winch for the spinnaker halyard if needed (although its not really an issue since I hoist the gennaker in a snuffer sock).

BTW, I have to paint my mast when it comes out this fall, so I have been following this post with interest.

 

[Ed Schenck]

When I begin the actual painting steps I will start a new thread. Maybe even something permanent in "Owners Mods". Yesterday I started work on the booms. I took pictures of the ends. I wanted to remove the ends prior to sanding. No way are those stainless screws going to come out of those aluminum castings! So the ends and those two small cleats will get masked off.

Need to find that thread about fixing reefing problems. I want to add smaller lines. Had to pull a dumb Ed trick by attaching a messenger line to a reef line and then pulling out the wrong one.

 

[Jim Legere]

I wanted to remove the ends prior to sanding. No way are those stainless screws going to come out of those aluminum castings! So the ends and those two small cleats will get masked off.

Ed, when I disassembled my booms a few years ago, I used one of those "hand-held impact drivers" - kind of a metal screwdriver with intechangable bits that you hold in one hand while using the other hand to hammer on it. Worked for me and, at about $10 at your local autoparts store, worth a try. Then put antiseize on every thread when reassembling.

 

[Bill1565]

Barbarian that I am, I sometimes grind off screw heads and pry stuff apart. Sometimes I even grind into the outer surface to eliminate the top of the screw thread. Of course, then I have to find new locations for the fastening screws. Done this on a bunch of whisker and spinnaker poles , also taken wire winches off masts this way. Never tried on a boom, but it should work.

 

[Ed Schenck]

I remember now Jim. I think you or someone mentioned using an impact driver another time. I should have remembered. It was the only way we got some of those fuselage panels off to get at the electronics. That was on the F8C in 1962. Those are two planes that I actually worked on.

And I could do that Bill, grind the heads off. In fact with the impact driver I would end up doing that anyway. At least one of the heads is going to strip. But I am not sure it is worth the aggravation just to paint. I see the Harbor Freight impact screwdriver is only $8.00. But I have not had much luck with those Chinese products.

 

[Bill1565]

I didn't bother on my boom. Just taped the end castings off, but then I didn't get my mast totally disassembled either. Back then I was in a hurry to get out cruising.

 

[Jim Legere]

... I see the Harbor Freight impact screwdriver is only $8.00. But I have not had much luck with those Chinese products.

Roger on the poor quality - I bought one that the phillips bits just twisted and crumbled apart. I had an old worn-out one made in USA one and I used the bits and adaptor from that - worked fine. I think you can probably still buy decent quality tools if you look around a bit. I daresay SnapOn probably make one for $$$

 

[Ed Schenck]

Keel done. Got on new e36.

Busy time at the Harbor North marina. Hosting the LESSHSA( http://www.facebook.com/pages/Lesshsa/156913301028047 ) Hunter Rendezvous, there were lots of Hunters in the river. My marina is a dealer so I climbed aboard the new e36. I liked the cockpit and interior. Did not like the small bow roller and small chain locker. Also not fond of compression type hatches and lack of salon opening ports. Plastic deadlights with no trim but slots in aft end. Under those slots were plastic openers, one in rear berth and other side in head.

It was so warm today that the barrier-coat was setting in less than an hour. So I was able to put on three coats for a total of four. Done! I'll wait until spring to put on any anti-fouling.

Finally finished unwrapping the transported mast. Took a picture of the base. It should clean up nicely. Still unsure how to deal with all the scrapes and dings. Just touch up or paint the whole thing. Time is running out.

Also took a picture of the steaming/deck light. You can see how crazed the lens is. Wonder if it is possible to get the lens? It's an Aqua Signal. The wiring is too tight, I can't get enough slack to remove it. I will probably have to remove the sail track/wire cover to get at the ties holding the wire up.

One stanchion to install, port side to wash and wax, and the outside is done until 2012. Next is mast work, paint and new rigging with new furler.

 

[rhythmsurfer]

Ed,
I just had the rigging and mast painted on my H36. The final bill is not done but I was quoted $7000ish. When it gets cold there this winter, come on down and take my boat out on the Emerald Coast of Florida