The user manual is a bit light on detail for a 1st time mast lower. Is there a video or alternative narrative. U use the main sheet on the end of the gin pole to control the lowering. Do you disconnect the BR rig support poles when u remove mast step pin to move the mast to the horizontal stowage. With a furling jib do u just undone at the stem head.
"260 mast lowering
- Thread starter iangraham
- Start date
I don't know the 260 as I have a 23, and it did not come with any gin pole or other system - the previous owner added one.
However, I have found it easier and safer to remove the genoa from the furler before I lower it, at least, based on the design of my Harken furler. If you leave the sail on, the forestay assembly is bulky, and if you leave the furler drum on, it can hang up on something like a stanchion pole as you slide the mast forward to lay it in the bow pulpit. If that happens, it can jam and cause the furler foils to bend, which can damage the foils or foil connectors - don't ask me how I know this.
I remove the sail, and after I use the block and tackle to pull down on the gin pole (I don't use the mainsheet, as the PO bought a block and tackle just for this purpose) I remove the drum entirely. The slender foil with nothing but the stud at the bottom makes it not only easier to move the mast (the sail would add weight) but less likely to hang up and snap.
However, I have found it easier and safer to remove the genoa from the furler before I lower it, at least, based on the design of my Harken furler. If you leave the sail on, the forestay assembly is bulky, and if you leave the furler drum on, it can hang up on something like a stanchion pole as you slide the mast forward to lay it in the bow pulpit. If that happens, it can jam and cause the furler foils to bend, which can damage the foils or foil connectors - don't ask me how I know this.
I remove the sail, and after I use the block and tackle to pull down on the gin pole (I don't use the mainsheet, as the PO bought a block and tackle just for this purpose) I remove the drum entirely. The slender foil with nothing but the stud at the bottom makes it not only easier to move the mast (the sail would add weight) but less likely to hang up and snap.
You do not remove the short support poles. After dropping the mast for trailering, you remove the pin at the base and then lift the mast up and move it forward, rotating up and over on those supports until they flip forward and go horizontal again and the mast base settles in the pulpit. Watch the shrouds in the mast crutch at the stern as they can get hung up there.
You never, ever, *ever* remove the struts. It’s helpful to have someone help move the mast forward over the struts and into the the cradle at the pulpit. It can get pretty heavy near the highest point. Keep us posted on your progress.
Good luck!
Good luck!
I hear what u say about the struts but u must be left with a large mast overhang at the rear of the boat. My trailer has a long v Apex to the hitch it is UK built without the extending neck so its longish here to stop the hitch submerging. If the mast horizontal could be moved forward so it overhung the front of the tailer/tow vehicle and the rudder removed it would get me below the target 12m
Dang, you’re right when you say the instructions are “a bit light.” Here’s a screen shot of the instruction. Step 13 is what you’re looking for. It says to slide the mast forward. Talk about an over-simplification. I searched for a video showing the process but didn’t find one. Maybe @Crazy Dave Condon, @Regular Guy, @cephius (Dave) or anyone else who trailers his boat regularly can chime in. My gift of instruction is failing me on this. Once you see it you’ll understand. Those struts are there to help. (Sorta like the government.)
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Give me a couple of days to come up with some instructions.
As for the struts, once the mast is down, you can remove them but mark which strut goes to which side and do not readjust the struts. Retain all bolts. you can move the mast further forward so the overhang is over the tow vehicle. Again it sounds you are not legal with the length with the overhang of the mast at the rear whereas in this country you would be.
One other thing, mast is tilted downward so you would have to watch out if the base of the mast will not hit the tow vehicle when down and also pulling the boat.
As for the struts, once the mast is down, you can remove them but mark which strut goes to which side and do not readjust the struts. Retain all bolts. you can move the mast further forward so the overhang is over the tow vehicle. Again it sounds you are not legal with the length with the overhang of the mast at the rear whereas in this country you would be.
One other thing, mast is tilted downward so you would have to watch out if the base of the mast will not hit the tow vehicle when down and also pulling the boat.
Yes, with the mast down and stowed in the "trailer" position, there is about 6' sticking out beyond the mast crutch. I have disconnected the support struts in order to pull the mast forward, allowing me to park the trailer closer to the back of a building. The spreaders are angled back and just clear the deck when the mast is it's down and stowed in the designed position. You need to jury rig fore and aft supports that keep the spreaders off the cabin top if you move the mast out of the designed storage location. For that reason, the one time I needed to shorten the boat to fit in a building I ended up storing the mast separate from the boat. That's fine for long term storage, but I would not consider it as part of a regular trailer step.
The rudder only adds a few inches to the overall length of the boat. You gain little by removing it.
I can provide more "lowering" tips if that is the information you need.
The rudder only adds a few inches to the overall length of the boat. You gain little by removing it.
I can provide more "lowering" tips if that is the information you need.
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thks all of u we don't think as big over this side of the pond and this is maxing out my brain cell. From hitch to stern on the trailer is measures 9.3 m the trailer is 450kg so 1800kg total and my brothers jeep cherooke 3.7 with propane tank in boot handbook says it can pull 2.2 ton so weight wise it would be ok. I looked at the 2 mast electrical connector at the base of the mast they seem seized so my have to unscrew the flange on the mast step.
Where the mast sits for the tow seems to be important over here in not lengthening it to much toward 12m. The rudder adds maybe a meter in the up postion and look hard to remove. I'm only going 70m but under the eye of motorway cameras. Previous owner towed it in with a small MPV Ford Galaxy 2 wheel drive.
Where the mast sits for the tow seems to be important over here in not lengthening it to much toward 12m. The rudder adds maybe a meter in the up postion and look hard to remove. I'm only going 70m but under the eye of motorway cameras. Previous owner towed it in with a small MPV Ford Galaxy 2 wheel drive.
here is a pic of the mast electrics the LH has a screw cap which I unscrewed but the black core would not pull out with pliers. The RH black core doesn't screw in not sure how to get out other than unscrew the 3 flange screw that the black core pushes into.
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I just took my mast down today and the guy I purchased from offered to help, so I let him take the lead. He removed the support poles (from the mast, just folded them aft onto the deck), but we must have placed the mast in a similar position as the recommended one as the spreaders were clear of the top deck and I have a large overhang aft. It's a pretty slick system with the pole, mainsheet, and jib halyard setup for lowering. Next time I'll keep the spreaders connected to the mast then!
Tyler, I’d love to see pictures of the way your mast is stowed. Here’s mine. Zoom in and you can see the struts are facing forward. @iangraham the picture might help you see what I tried to describe. (I just now remembered I have this picture.)
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I will try to get some photos tomorrow Kermit. I want to move some things around anyway, and the only tape I had to secure halyards and rigging to the mast was duct tape so I'll be replacing that with gaffers tape so I don't have residue. Anyway, that said, I should be able to make some photos in the next day or two.
thks for the pic and advice but pls offer opinion on the mast electric disconnect photo how are your the same how did u disconnect
I unscrew them. I know that seems like a simple answer but that’s all there is to it. I’ll try to get a picture next time I’m there but it could be a while. Does anyone else have pictures?
I just reread your post about the connectors. If soaking them in WD-40 doesn’t help get them unseized you might have to cut the wires and replace the connectors. It’s not a hard job but it can get tricky since everything is small. I would try grabbing them with channel locks to unscrew them. But I wouldn’t be surprised if you end up replacing the connectors anyway.
been working on instructions and the draft will be posted in a few days for any suggestions for revisions. Hopefully, Mainsail will allow the draft in two places.
Looking at the cable photo are your boats the same. The right black connector with no obvious retaining screw rings just bigger piers turn anticlockwide and hope for the best. Looked at my furler should had photoed it but it loks like you release the tension on the forestay by rotating a barreal bolt on the forestay below the furler. then With the forestay loose undo the fixing not sure which on under the furler which secures the fore stay to the stemhead. Is it ok to slacken the mast support post both ends on the drop to stop rotating metal scraping? To undo one end of the posts reduce rear mast over hang which end to undo top or bottom? Thks in antipation. When I have all the tools and knowledge 1 more trip this month to drop the mast for transport. thks for talking/writing