Here's the start

Merlin Clark · Dec 13, 2012

I haven't but have read about them on pocket cruisers. There was a guy on one of the forums that posted pics of a good one he had built but I can't find them.
Here's a couple others.
http://boatfix.blogspot.com/2011/06/making-galley-box.html
http://forum.woodenboat.com/showthread.php?132955-Galley-Box
Here is a very neat set up http://www.wwpotterowners.com/FoodProvisioning9.html

Bill Roosa · Dec 16, 2012

hey Bill
I'd think that epoxy would hold the hatch if you can get it attached to the fiberglass and not the gelcoat. On a related note, how are you going to adapt the drain channels on the hatch frame to the deck? I'm thinking it would fill with rain water in short order without the channels being run further along the deck.

Bill Roosa · Dec 16, 2012

Only two possibilities, raise the hatch frame or glass in channels in the deck to match the hatch frame.
Not to be Johny Raincloud but the hatch frame seems to have a curve that is not identical to the deck. Not sure how well the hatch will seal after bending the frame to the deck so would check that before proceeding.
what is the bottom of the frame made of?

Bill Roosa · Dec 16, 2012

as long as you prep the surface and are doing glass to glass epoxy will work fine. It is not like the hatch holds up the mast. while the epoxy will stick to the gelcoat, gelcoat does not bear up under much strain. It will start to crack (and leak) in short order once you start walking or dogging down the hatch. Since it looks like you have an inch or so of 'surround" to bond the hatch to the deck you would not need bolts unless you intend to take her out on the ocean in a storm. Just grind off the gelcoat, then bond with epoxy puddy (glass beads or silica), then gelcoat the seam. I'd not even go the gelcoat route as it is a pain. Auto bondo and white (your boat color) paint works just fine too.

Chris Patterson · Dec 23, 2012

If you are motoring at night you do. A "Steaming light" its called, about half way up the mast. At the very top goes an anchor light, that should only be on while anchoring.

onecoolair · Dec 24, 2012

Chris Patterson said:
If you are motoring at night you do. A "Steaming light" its called, about half way up the mast. At the very top goes an anchor light, that should only be on while anchoring.

Don't shoot me but I believe this to be the rule....
Power-driven vessels of less than 7 meters roughly 23' feet whose maximum speed cannot exceed 7 knots may exhibit an all-around white light on a removable pole off the starboard or port stern for steaming. And if practical red and green side lights. I believe this includes small sailboats whether the mast is up or down. This allowance is because on a small sailboat it is just not practical to be expected to be able to run wiring up such a small mast. All the mac26 sailboats right out of the box I have seen delivered had only the basics.
For an anchor light I would use the white led all around on the stern for anchoring. Turn off the red/green. Or just hoist a battery powered model up a halyard. Keep glow sticks on board just in case.
Even on my H356 I prefer to use an all around light on a photo sensor at eye level verses the mast anchor light 60' up...The anchor light at eye level hanging off the bow or stern is more likely to be noticed by the idiot speeding through the anchorage at 3am!

Chris Patterson · Dec 24, 2012

Dohh. You may be right sir. I didn't take into account a smaller boat. I've seen people of late using driveway solar lights stuck in fishing rod holders. I've often wondered why anyone would put a rod holder on a proper sailing vessel, but now it makes sense. Shoot, I'd do about anything to ward off the 3 am drunks.

I'm considering semi-floating mines.

alexco38 · Dec 24, 2012

Bill sanders said:
So if I am reading it right,I do need a light on the mast and I can run a battery operated light. Is this correct?

If you anchor in the dark you need some all round 360 light that can be seen 2 kt away.

If you motor in the dark you need both red 120 green 120 and all round 360 white (could be 240 front on the mast and 120 back on the stern)

If you sail in the dark you need 120 degree red, 120 degree green and 120 white face the back.

Nothing about how you wire them, just 2kt visible.

The spec should be in the basic boating guide.

If you don't sail in the dark often, you can use battery powered unit clamped to boat so long it won't fall off and be seen 2 kt.

For racing regulation, you do have to bring backup lights even if you have fix mounted lights.

Ron20324 · Dec 25, 2012

Wrong light info?

alexco38 said:
... the spec should be in the basic boating guide....

It is too bad there are many postings to these forums that use information that people "recall", but is NOT actually the truth. If one considers the West Marine catalog (page 446) as a "boating guide", you would see most all of your information is wrong. Light angles of 112.5, 135, and 225 among them.

alexco38 · Dec 25, 2012

I can't tell how they can come up with exact light angle like 112.5. The light fixtures are not that precise. CG tell you to do 120 because it is 1/3 of the circle.

BTW you should have a CG boat guide onboard. You may need to identify trawlers, lakers, on tow barge and ferries in the dark.

alexco38 · Dec 26, 2012

Bill sanders said:
Cg boat guide is that require to have on a corp of engineer lake

Lights are "fairly" universal as a boat/ship may go to other part of the world.

Lights have slightly different requirements based on size. Don't want to confuse you.

The best way to learn about lights is the local Power squadron course.

There is a law in Canada to have a Personal Watercraft operators certificate.

The CG guide would be a good source regardless where you sail.