There is a totally fiberglass enclosed area to right of mast step on my ODay 19 where cracks on deck had apparently (before I owned) allowed water in resulting in wet wood inside. My surface repairs didn't hold, I'm guessing because of encased moisture. I've now drilled several holes in this relatively small compartment to try to let it air dry before filling and patching. Its taking forever for the wood which is now black and moist to dry. I'm temped to add a filler material which hardens when mixed with water on theory that it will absorb remaining water and make it harden inside. I'd prefer to use a more typical fiberglass repair filler but think it needs to be really dry inside. I would appreciate any ideas.
Need to dry out wet wood encased in fiberglass
- Thread starter weh5748
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If the plywood is structural support, and you can find rot in there... the wood's gotta go. Fiberglass work actually isn't that hard, if you work slowly and carefully. Good winter project, if you have heated storage.
In general, drying out requires holes, dry air, and time. Like a whole winter. Sometimes the drying can be hastened by the use of gentle heat, like a light bulb or heater on low, solvents like isopropyl alcohol, or dessicants like silica gel. The vacuum idea could help too.
Can you post pictures of the mast step and point out the wet parts? Photos from both inside and outside?
In general, drying out requires holes, dry air, and time. Like a whole winter. Sometimes the drying can be hastened by the use of gentle heat, like a light bulb or heater on low, solvents like isopropyl alcohol, or dessicants like silica gel. The vacuum idea could help too.
Can you post pictures of the mast step and point out the wet parts? Photos from both inside and outside?
Pictures would help confirm/debunk our ideas, but here are my thoughts:
Cutting that fiberglass isn't very difficult with the correct tools. Fein Multimaster or the Dremel model of the vibrating blade cutters will cut a very controllable line and the dust can be vacuumed pretty well as you cut. Serious breathing filter protection during the process is a "MUST HAVE".
West System "6 ten" in the tube is a thick product to apply the wood to the overhead. It won't drip like the thinner epoxy. If you have the ability to brace the wood up from below that would insure a tight contact. Depending on the area of the deck that is involved you might put screws down from the top to pull the wood up tight. Then remove the screws after the epoxy is dry and fill the holes with epoxy topped off with gelcoat repair material.
Best Wishes, Phil
Cutting that fiberglass isn't very difficult with the correct tools. Fein Multimaster or the Dremel model of the vibrating blade cutters will cut a very controllable line and the dust can be vacuumed pretty well as you cut. Serious breathing filter protection during the process is a "MUST HAVE".
West System "6 ten" in the tube is a thick product to apply the wood to the overhead. It won't drip like the thinner epoxy. If you have the ability to brace the wood up from below that would insure a tight contact. Depending on the area of the deck that is involved you might put screws down from the top to pull the wood up tight. Then remove the screws after the epoxy is dry and fill the holes with epoxy topped off with gelcoat repair material.
Best Wishes, Phil
I'm with Phil on the oscillating multitool, bought mine on sale at Harbor Freight for $20. Probably the best power tool I've seen for boat projects.
We had the same issue with our mariner 40 ketch, Sea Trek, when we bought her. There is only one proper repair. We cut out the fiberglass deck over the bad area. Since ours had a good deal under the mast, we unstepped it first. it our case we did not fill with plywood, although in your case it would probably be best. Dig out and completely remove all of the wet wood and allow the area to completely dry. Apply liberal amounts of thickened epoxy to the replacement wood and put it in place. Re-fiberglass the cut out section of the deck and repair the non skid or whatever the surface is. Now you have a repair that will not be a bother again. Because we had to repair deck compression under the mast, we laid in layers of heavy fiberglass cloth, a stainless plate and then more layers of fiberglass cloth until the entire area was built up. Then the removed section of the deck was replaced. A nuke won't affect that section of the deck now. Chuck
Hey man, you get a few holes drilled into the top of it, and slowly pour acetone in them. The water will come RUNNING out of the holes. Suck it up with a wet vac, and do it again. The acetone dries quickly, and it will get the water out of it. Then do your repair. Done this many times. Don't smoke.
And if acetone really did dry out wood, there would be no need for major deck repair. Reality, it doesn't!
No good way except to: Take out the rot. Check mast stepping. Replace rotted with ply covered with epoxy. Take your time and do it right. I think you will feel pleased and competent.
Boatsail1
Boatsail1
I didn't say it would repair the deck, it chases out the water. I've only done this maybe 40? 60? times..
When I used the same vac this morning, it still looked pretty good. With all the water that tends to come out of the holes, the acetone is mostly dissipated.
I've done this work in the bilges of boats, upon the advice of boat mechanics, that work on boats, kinda like I do..
When I used the same vac this morning, it still looked pretty good. With all the water that tends to come out of the holes, the acetone is mostly dissipated.
I've done this work in the bilges of boats, upon the advice of boat mechanics, that work on boats, kinda like I do..
Not necessarily! You must have the correct fuel/air mix to get combustion. Too much air here and not enough fuel IF you vent to open air .
I hope all of you are far away from our boat when your vacuuming up acetone or any other solvents. This report may not be quite the same, but I'm just sayin. Chuck
http://www.abc-7.com/story/18934997/father-son-recovering-after-naples-boat-explosion
http://www.abc-7.com/story/18934997/father-son-recovering-after-naples-boat-explosion
If you half a*& it
If you do a half a*& repair now, your just going to have to do it again before long. The deck needs to be reasonably strong in that area. Do it right, do it once and you won't have to worry or repeat.
If you do a half a*& repair now, your just going to have to do it again before long. The deck needs to be reasonably strong in that area. Do it right, do it once and you won't have to worry or repeat.
I knew a guy that repaired gas tanks. He said after 40 years without an problem he believed he had the formula down pat. Then he had an explosion that damn near killed him. He didnt work on gas tanks anymore.
Acetone is quite flammable and explosive. Pulling a potentially explosive mixture through an electric motor is another recipe for disaster, regardless how many times you get away with it.
If its rotten, cut it out and glass another piece in. Thats how its meant to be done,
Acetone is quite flammable and explosive. Pulling a potentially explosive mixture through an electric motor is another recipe for disaster, regardless how many times you get away with it.
If its rotten, cut it out and glass another piece in. Thats how its meant to be done,
Thanks for all the responses. Extremely informative. I am currently scooping black moist wood with what appear to be strands of fiberglass in it out of several fairly large holes that I drilled. Area seems quite strong structurally and I'm not sure why there was wood in this relatively small cavity (~5" by ~12"). Since there is a removable thin fiberglass weather shield that covers most of this area I am tempted to continue to blow or suck air thru it perhaps into the winter until I'm sure its dry then fill with epoxy or polyester material vs cutting large hole so that I can replace the small piece of wood. There are no signs of this problem area below in the 19's small cabin. I will try to post a picture as suggested ..although I'm a rookie to this site and not 100% sure how to do that. Thanks for all the suggestions I'm going to keep open mind and keep working the issue. I love that boat.
Well, despite all the blasting I took over the acetone, you still might want to try a small area, even wiping it off with a rag if the vac concerns you. Acetone displaces water, makes it go to the surface, and will literally run off of it. Discounting "contempt prior to investigation", you'd be surprised how well it works. It will dry out wood.
After it's dry, check out Git-Rot. Some owners and mechanics here on the yard swear by it, I've never used it. They tell me that it turns rotten wood hard as stone..
After it's dry, check out Git-Rot. Some owners and mechanics here on the yard swear by it, I've never used it. They tell me that it turns rotten wood hard as stone..
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