Dismasted!

Sep 29, 2008
93
Oday 22 Oneida Lake, Syracuse, NY
It seems I went out in a little more wind than my '76 O'Day 22 could handle, and ended up dismasted. Fortunately, with three young men on board, we were able to easily retrieve the mast out of the water, noone was hurt, and noone was in danger of much more than getting wet. We strapped the mast to the deck, dropped the anchor for an hour or so to regain composure and to ride out the wind. When the wind eased a little, we limped back to the marina. Once safely tied in my slip, I surveyed the damage. Besides my ego, the major damage includes the port chainplate ripped from the deck, and the mast step horribly mangled (see pics). The ruler is difficult to read, but the damaged area is about 3" square, and the crack is about 8" long

With the chainplate removed, and a piece of the deck with it, the root cause of the weakness has shown its ugly face - the wood core has practically rotted down to pulp. I am left wondering - what is the best way to repair the damage? Can it be repaired? I understand that you can cut off the top layer of fiberglass, lay new wood, and re-glass the deck. But what if the rot has spread too far? The boat is 36 years old. In theory, the rot could have spread throughout the entire deck. What do I do then? Can it be repaired in pieces? Is the boat even worth salvaging in this extreme case?
 

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Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
If you can learn to do the repairs your self it is very much worth doing. If you have to hire it done you face an entirely different cost/benefit ratio.
 
May 14, 2012
6
You can repair that. Also, the chain plate should have been fastened to a bulkhead on the inside. I have seen on YouTube repairs to an area just like yours. Don't worry, just get to work.
 
Jun 25, 2012
942
hunter 356 Kemah,the Republic of Texas
Yes the way to go is Lay in new wood. Then reglass deck as you said. But do not forget to glass under side of deck. Then have you ever heard of "get-rot" a marine penatrating expoxy? You will have to drill many shallow holes into the top of your deck or were ever you think you have any rot. Just make sure all possible cracks or holes on under side of deck is sealed tight. If you miss any holes it will find it and escape making a mess. Gravity is its friend! Remove any cushions etc. from below and put somewhere safe.This stuff will penetrate and find any rotted or soft wood untill it can go no more. Mix in small batches. Very slow cure rate. But once set any rotted areas of deck will be solid. Do not forget to do the other chain plate areas as well.
Once done all you have left to do is deal with the cosmedics of desk. And they make paints for that which can be brushed on. Remember proper prep work is the key for a fine job and will make things go a lot smoother.Take your time and enjoy yourself.
luck
RR
 
May 24, 2004
7,202
CC 30 South Florida
There is no doubt the boat can be salvaged, it is just a question of wether it is economically feasible. If the cost of the repair exceeds 50% of the boat's current market value it may not be worth to fix. To repair a corroded deck might be quite expensive but a small cosmetic job and relocating the chainplates may be more reasonable. That small section of deck can be repaired and new chainplates can be relocated and through bolted to the outside of the hull. Try to locate a used mast in a salvage yard and see what wires can be salvaged that would work with the new mast and chainplates. See about repairing or replacing the mast step. If you are willing to do the job and once you may determine the cost of materials needed you will be in a better position to determine if you you think the fix is worth it or not.
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
The cost of fiberglass cloth and resin(epoxy or ester) will be less than fifty dollars. You will need a right angle grinder and a supply of sanding disks. You will of course need all of the proper safety clothing and eye and respiration protection. Total cost can be kept under 200 dollars. This will enable you to do a proper job. As I said, IF you can teach yourself to make the repair it is very do able. If you hired me to do the job I charge 80 dollars per hour and I estimate it would take six hours plus the cost of the materials say 100 dollars allowing for a little profit.
 
Oct 10, 2009
1,066
Catalina 27 3657 Lake Monroe
The chainplate would have torn from the bulkhead below decks, which will need to be repaired. Not a huge job, I replaced mine this year. I only had a radius of about 4-6 inches of softness in the deck around the chainplate, which I repaired with polyurathane glue. The old bulkheads were used as a template for the new ones. With marine grade plywood the total for the bulkhead replacement was about $225.
 
Aug 2, 2005
1,155
Pearson 33-2 & Typhoon 18 Seneca Lake
Hello Brian, Thankfully, you said no one was hurt. This situation presents a perfect opportunity to learn to repair hull damage or improve any skills you already have. It seems to be a case of "you can't make it any worse" since the boat is unusable as it is.
The small backer plates on the shroud in the last picture certainly contributed to the failure. Replacing them with much larger ones would be easy. Also, this is a good example of why regular maintenance is a very important process. Two reminders for all of us.
Using one of the Fein Multimaster knockoff tools will cut a small kerf that can be filled with epoxy and covered with paint that has had the nonskid material added to it. I'll add some pics of a deck repair we did following a dismasting that occurred before we bought our boat.
BTW: It's difficult to desctibe the feeling you get when you drill the first holes in your hull or cut the first pieces of fiberglass out of the deck!
Best Wishes,
 

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Jan 19, 2010
12,754
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
Keep an eye open for someone parting out an Oday 22, or Mac 22, or Catalina 22 and you should be able to pick up a new tabernacle and chain plate for less than $10.
 

CarlN

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Jan 4, 2009
603
Ketch 55 Bristol, RI
Here's another good guide to repair

http://www.rotdoctor.com/glass/GLrotrepair.html#deck

It should be inexpensive to have a local metal shop make up a new tabernacle if you take them the old one.

There is a reasonable chance that the rot is limited to a fairly small area. I would drill small holes from the underside (will show less) to find the extent of the rot. While you're at it, check under the mast step and at any other place that hardware penetrates the deck.

And while there's no doubt you have to make a strong repair for the chainplate, many boats sail for decades with rot in their deck cores - as your's probably has. Don't give up on the boat.

Carl
 
Oct 2, 2006
1,517
Jboat J24 commack
Its clear in the picture the PO of the boat did a bunch of wile e coyote quality work starting with the now bent and rusting mild steel mast step and one shroud toggle sure looks bent

It can be fixed with a bit of money and a good amount of time and i would have to think the other chainplate is sitting in rotted wood and should be addressed to avoid a repeat
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
Wrapping up a complete recore on an Oday 27. What a fun and interesting project. See 'And so it begins' under Oday bigger boats forums. Worth every penny. If you feel like a trip to Rochester you can get a look yourself.
 
Sep 29, 2008
93
Oday 22 Oneida Lake, Syracuse, NY
Thanks all for the words of encouragement! My current plan is to see what I can learn and do myself - as 31seahorse said, it can't get any worse! The PO definitely neglected this boat. On the other hand, I didn't pay a lot for it. Now I'm finding out why. Oh, and the chainplate was attached to the bulkhead, but it too had rotted out, and the entire bracket pulled right through the deck. Sounds like I should look at replacing that too. Maybe even the compression post while I'm at it.

25yearslater - I'm glad to hear of your complete recore job. I'm sure it took a long time, but it sounds like you learned a lot from it. It also gives me hope that even in this worst case scenario, the boat can be restored. I'm in Rochester from time to time, maybe I'll take you up on your offer.

My largest concerns are my skills (I'm not what you'd call handy - and I have nobody local who can help me) and my time (I have a 1-year-old and a 3-year-old). I fear this event just cost me 1 1/2 seasons on the water.
 
Jun 25, 2012
942
hunter 356 Kemah,the Republic of Texas
Look at moving the chain plates to the side of hull like in the mac-26c and hunters.
 
Aug 20, 2010
1,399
Oday 27 Oak Orchard
By all means Brian. I have balsa, cloth, epoxy and nonskid mold stuff out the wazoo. Like you I had no previous experience but the directions from WEST Systems were so easy you wouldn't believe it. Took about a year when subtracting our winters. I'd be happy to let you play with the stuff so you don't have to go in blind. The mold stuff is the same as yours from your pictures. The three strand and dot basket weave.
 

CarlN

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Jan 4, 2009
603
Ketch 55 Bristol, RI
Remember that you aren't planning to circumnavigate in this boat. You just need the mast to stay up in inland waters. Maximize sailing time.

Anyone doing boat repairs should remember Voltaire's warning:

The Perfect is the enemy of the Good
 

Ross

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Jun 15, 2004
14,693
Islander/Wayfairer 30 sail number 25 Perryville,Md.
Do it after planning your steps.
1. Open the wound and clean up the rotted core.
2. fit new core into place.
3. epoxy the new core into place and cover with one layer of glass
4. sand the work fair to this point.
5. apply the rest of the glass cloth to build the thickness you need.
6. . Down load this PDF http://www.ericgreeneassociates.com/images/MARINE_COMPOSITES.pdf