O'Day 23 broken mast step casting

[heymagic]

I am the new owner of a 1978 O'Day 23. The mast step casting is cracked on one corner and the hinge plate, that is attached to the step, looks bowed. I believe that this is a Kenyon 3.60 x 5.00 mast. I could use some help finding the parts.
The boat is in my shed and I have pictures of the mast step.
Mike B

 

[Joe11688]

Mike,
Why don't you post those pics for us and maybe we can offer you some help on it? If the casting in Aluminum, you could have it Heliark welded. You could also convert the mast and step to a stainless steel hinge. You'd need the right size mast plug to fit your mast. To make up of the difference in height for your existing stays to fit right, you could install a piece of Trex under your Tabernacle plate like I did.
If you decide to go that route though, you should buy the utility plate with the holes in it to fit under the Tabernacle hinge plate. The utility plate allows you to connect a boom vang or sheaves for halyards and such.
My original Z-Spar mast had a cast Aluminum Tabernacle with a sheave at the bottom for the Jib Halyard and I hated it with a passion. I had a guy at Rig Rite install a Kenyon stainless steel hinge plate to my mast and I installed the lower half plus the utility plate on the cabin myself. I used a 1" thick Teak block at the time to mount the plates on. I've since changed it to Trex this past summer. Of course, other problems can arise when you put two dissimilar metals together and this needs to be taken into consideration.

 

[Indysailor]

I got a gooseneck casting and a mast step casting from Dwyer this summer. They had parts that fit my Kenyon mast, cheaper than Rig Rite. Good folks to talk to, but as with Rig Rite, you will need to examine their masts to know which one you need.

My mast step was bent- I just bent it back into place rather than buy a new one. But if you need a new one, Dwyer will probably have it.

 

[Joe11688]

I got a gooseneck casting and a mast step casting from Dwyer this summer. They had parts that fit my Kenyon mast, cheaper than Rig Rite. Good folks to talk to, but as with Rig Rite, you will need to examine their masts to know which one you need.

My mast step was bent- I just bent it back into place rather than buy a new one. But if you need a new one, Dwyer will probably have it.

I don't think that I would ever go back to Rig-Rite Inc. in RI again for anything. If they'd have used the proper metal plug in my mast back in the mid 1990s I would never have had to cut 2" off the bottom of my mast this past summer because of corrosion. I made up a temporary fix and it works, but I need to figure out a way to make it permanent. Rig-Rite charges a $120 an hour consultation fee with a minimum of $40 for special projects.
So I agree with you. Dwyer would probably have whatever he needs.

 

[heymagic]

Forgive me for not replying sooner. I was at the VA Hospital for a little "R&R".
The mast step at Rigrite is $329 so that's not happening.
In the pictures I hope you can see that the corner of the casting is broken, and the SS hinge piece is bowed.
Would you think it would work if I took off the casting and welded it. Removed the bowed hinge piece and added a rectangular piece of SS plate the same size as the casting. I can get a new hinge piece and bolt that on with slightly longer bolts. That would raise the mast the thickness of the plate I use, maybe 1/8th inch. I would screw the step back on the mast with 1/4-20 of the right material.
MikeB

Mike,
Why don't you post those pics for us and maybe we can offer you some help on it? If the casting in Aluminum, you could have it Heliark welded. You could also convert the mast and step to a stainless steel hinge. You'd need the right size mast plug to fit your mast. To make up of the difference in height for your existing stays to fit right, you could install a piece of Trex under your Tabernacle plate like I did.
If you decide to go that route though, you should buy the utility plate with the holes in it to fit under the Tabernacle hinge plate. The utility plate allows you to connect a boom vang or sheaves for halyards and such.
My original Z-Spar mast had a cast Aluminum Tabernacle with a sheave at the bottom for the Jib Halyard and I hated it with a passion. I had a guy at Rig Rite install a Kenyon stainless steel hinge plate to my mast and I installed the lower half plus the utility plate on the cabin myself. I used a 1" thick Teak block at the time to mount the plates on. I've since changed it to Trex this past summer. Of course, other problems can arise when you put two dissimilar metals together and this needs to be taken into consideration.

 

[heymagic]

Thanks for the reply.
I looked through the Dwyer site, and didn't see the mast step for my mast. Maybe I should call them and see if they have the part and don't list it. I think O'Day changed to a different mast in the early 80's, right? Does the one I have look familiar? If you happen to remember the part#, that would be great.
The trailer has some work to be done. I replaced the backing plates on both sides. The drums were full of grease, and the wheel cylinders were as rusty as the inside of the one in the coupler. I replaced the wheel bearings, seals, and turned the drums. The rear axle will get the same, minus the brake stuff. The parts for the coupler cost more than a whole new assy. So I'll have to bite the bullet on that. New brake lines, fluid, and the thing might stop! The trailer is a heavy duty EZ Loader, and worth fixing.
MikeB

I got a gooseneck casting and a mast step casting from Dwyer this summer. They had parts that fit my Kenyon mast, cheaper than Rig Rite. Good folks to talk to, but as with Rig Rite, you will need to examine their masts to know which one you need.

My mast step was bent- I just bent it back into place rather than buy a new one. But if you need a new one, Dwyer will probably have it.

 

[Joe11688]

Mike,
I think that casting plug can be Heliark welded and the hinge plate could be straightened out. It appears to me that the mast almost went over sideways as it was being raised or lowered. It doesn't appear to be that critical when the mast is standing up but with the tabernacle hinge being bent the way it is, it can be a problem when you're trying to pin it or remove the pin when the mast is down. It really needs to be straightened out so that the pins can be inserted without have to use a hammer and punch pin.
My friend's Hunter 27 mast has regular wood screws holding the tabernacle plate to the cabin top. One of his stays let go during a storm one night and the mast went over the side. The tabernacle ripped off the cabin. The mast sustained no damage at all and the boatyard only had to fix the fiberglass cabin to and screw the tabernacle back on. The Hunter mast Tabernacle was set up for that reason unlike our boats which have the tabernacle bolted to the cabin top.
When my lower stay let go years ago out near Newport RI, my mast went over the side and into the water. All I heard was a loud crack and in the flick of an eye, my mast was in the water all bent in half.

Outside of stays letting go, the only crucial time you can lose or damage your mast is when you raise, lower it. If you're able to straighten out the hinge plate or buy a new hinge, as long as you keep that mast nice and straight when you're raising/lowering it will be fine. I always make sure that the wind is coming from directly aft when I mast raising and that the boat, either in the water or on the trailer, is level.
I raise/lower from aft and I use a Gin Pole, pivot bridles, and temporary stays when I do it. With that said, some company may have that casting. O'Day used about four different spar manufacturers. I only wish that my mast had a casting similar to yours instead of the stainless steel plug that Rig-Rite installed in my second mast. Stainless steel and Aluminum don't mix. You could have it welded but I really don't think it's that critical to the mast while you're sailing. As long as your mast is not cracked at the bottom near the plug like mine was. I'd be willing to trade my mast problem for yours right now. I had to cut 2" off the bottom of my mast because it was ready to blow out on me due to corrosion. This is very common with sailboat masts. Good luck!
Joe

 

[heymagic]

Hey Joe,
You hit the nail right on the head!
When I was taking the boat out of the water at Lake Pepin the end of October, the PO was trying hard to get the pin out. I finally went forward and pried it out with a pair of channelock pliers.
When I got it home in the shed, I could see the problem, and wondered if the mast got a little sideways going up or down. My Sanibel doesn't have a furler, so the mast is easy to raise and lower by myself. This one will be a two man job, but it will probably be in a slip on Lake Superior in the spring. It's
time to drill out the dang rivets! Oh well! I need to rewire the mast and put a steaming light in the hole that is there now.
I'm working on the trailer now, so I can wheel the boat around a little. Besides the mast job, I need to add a shore power inlet somewhere and figure out where I want the battery selecter to be. It's inside the port lazerette now. The boat has a 15hp Mariner electric start, so I guess the plan was to have the selecter close by. If it stays there, it will need to be a much better job than what I see now. An impeller kit, some lube and a tune-up should get the motor up to snuff.
I need to scrape the bottom and repaint, lower the centerboard and put on a new pennant and hardware too. A few other misc. things, and it should be O.K.
MikeB

Mike,
I think that casting plug can be Heliark welded and the hinge plate could be straightened out. It appears to me that the mast almost went over sideways as it was being raised or lowered. It doesn't appear to be that critical when the mast is standing up but with the tabernacle hinge being bent the way it is, it can be a problem when you're trying to pin it or remove the pin when the mast is down. It really needs to be straightened out so that the pins can be inserted without have to use a hammer and punch pin.
My friend's Hunter 27 mast has regular wood screws holding the tabernacle plate to the cabin top. One of his stays let go during a storm one night and the mast went over the side. The tabernacle ripped off the cabin. The mast sustained no damage at all and the boatyard only had to fix the fiberglass cabin to and screw the tabernacle back on. The Hunter mast Tabernacle was set up for that reason unlike our boats which have the tabernacle bolted to the cabin top.
When my lower stay let go years ago out near Newport RI, my mast went over the side and into the water. All I heard was a loud crack and in the flick of an eye, my mast was in the water all bent in half.

Outside of stays letting go, the only crucial time you can lose or damage your mast is when you raise, lower it. If you're able to straighten out the hinge plate or buy a new hinge, as long as you keep that mast nice and straight when you're raising/lowering it will be fine. I always make sure that the wind is coming from directly aft when I mast raising and that the boat, either in the water or on the trailer, is level.
I raise/lower from aft and I use a Gin Pole, pivot bridles, and temporary stays when I do it. With that said, some company may have that casting. O'Day used about four different spar manufacturers. I only wish that my mast had a casting similar to yours instead of the stainless steel plug that Rig-Rite installed in my second mast. Stainless steel and Aluminum don't mix. You could have it welded but I really don't think it's that critical to the mast while you're sailing. As long as your mast is not cracked at the bottom near the plug like mine was. I'd be willing to trade my mast problem for yours right now. I had to cut 2" off the bottom of my mast because it was ready to blow out on me due to corrosion. This is very common with sailboat masts. Good luck!
Joe

 

[Technodad]

I need to add a shore power inlet somewhere and figure out where I want the battery selecter to be. It's inside the port lazerette now. The boat has a 15hp Mariner electric start, so I guess the plan was to have the selecter close by. If it stays there, it will need to be a much better job than what I see now.

MikeB

Hi Mike,
Here is a picture of the battery box and electrical in my 23.
I modified the box that was there, put a backing board on it and added the electrics. I put a light with switch there also. The motor electric start wires just go on the electrical posts.
The box just screws down inside the bottom front and has the back piece of wood shaped to sit on the hull. Easy to take the whole thing out too!
I have an outboard motor remote control there also that I will be moving.

Maybe this will help for idea's..........

 

[heymagic]

Wow! Nice clean install and the light is a great idea.Thanks for the information and pictures. Do you have a "house" battery as well and does your motor charge the battery shown?

Thanks again,
MikeB

 

[Technodad]

I have only this battery (group 27 deep cycle), the battery is actually not in the batt case in this pic.
I am thinking of putting another battery or move this one to under the starboard V berth to balance the motor / batt weight at the stern.
I probably will need to add another batt (I have a group 24 deep cycle) because I am putting a microwave with inverter inside and I have an autopilot.
The motor is an 2008 APS 9.9 elec start with charging, exact Chinese copy of the Yamaha 9.9!

I got this boat mid summer and I am restoring the inside and adding a new furler (I already have the Furlex 50S) and 145% genny (coming).

I am currently modifying and installing a heavy duty motor bracket, I will do a separate post on this.

Here is a pic of it in the driveway......

 

[Joe11688]

Nice looking boat! The O'Day 23 is one of my favorite sloops. I like the way they set them up, both inside and outside. Rudy told me a long time ago that the O'Day 23 was one of the best boats that O'Day ever built and I've got to agree with him.

 

[Barnacle Bill]

Cast aluminum mast bases are made of cast aluminum that are treated with glycerine to help deal with the elements. This makes it difficult to weld, unless you go to someone who knows what they are doing, but because of the glycerine, all bets are off, but I have found that success happens more than failure. But, you can go to a local machine shop and have them make up from scratch an aluminum mast step that is much cheaper than what was suggested from Rig Rite. Or, you can forget the mast step and buy a hinged mast tabernacle from a place like Dwyer and eliminate the mast step all together (that goes inside the mast).

 

[Technodad]

Nice looking boat! The O'Day 23 is one of my favorite sloops. I like the way they set them up, both inside and outside. Rudy told me a long time ago that the O'Day 23 was one of the best boats that O'Day ever built and I've got to agree with him.

Thanks Joe for the info and nice things to say about the 23, I need to hear that as I am spending a lot of hard earned money on her.
This will be my last boat so I am going to make her nice. I'm nearly 66 now and have a bunch of trips planned that the wife and I can do.

Cheers
John

 

[heymagic]

Thanks John,
It will take lots of elbow grease to get my boat even close to yours. I wouldn't be a bit concerned about batteries, but I need to run my CPAP machine while poking around the Apostle Islands this summer. An LED anchor light and cabin lights will help with power needs, but I think a couple of batteries might give me a little more time.

MikeB

 

[heymagic]

Hi Bill,
Thanks for the reply. You're right, The glycerine may make it a crap shoot to weld. I didn't see anything Dwyer has that will attach the hinge to that Kenyon mast. What am I missing? I wondered about having a shop make someting up. When I finish with the trailer, I'll drill out the rivets and get the piece in my hand. I don't need fancy just strong.
MikeB

Cast aluminum mast bases are made of cast aluminum that are treated with glycerine to help deal with the elements. This makes it difficult to weld, unless you go to someone who knows what they are doing, but because of the glycerine, all bets are off, but I have found that success happens more than failure. But, you can go to a local machine shop and have them make up from scratch an aluminum mast step that is much cheaper than what was suggested from Rig Rite. Or, you can forget the mast step and buy a hinged mast tabernacle from a place like Dwyer and eliminate the mast step all together (that goes inside the mast).

 

[heymagic]

Mast Step update:
I contacted Dwyer this AM. They said they did not have anything to fit a Kenyon 3650 mast and welding a piece of cast metal that old was another factor.
He suggested having a piece cast at a foundry or have a shop make one up.
He also was surprised at the inflated price of the one from Rigrite. A similar part from Dwyer would be $45, or $123 with the hinge!!!
MikeB

 

[Barnacle Bill]

A shop can make up (weld) a new piece from what you already have as a pattern. But, I would try to weld what you have first. A good welder might be able to get it done for you.

 

[Technodad]

Mike, you might want to try this:
Remove the casting from the mast and have a machine shop or somebody with a lathe (like me) machine the flange off the casting, grab a piece of stainless flat bar say 4" wide? x 1/4" thick x 6" long? and attach it to the casting with screws. Drill and countersink the plate and drill and tap the casting where there is enough wall thickness.

This is what I would do as I am a machinist, it is an easy thing to do.

You would have to determine the size flat bar you'd need first as the sizes above are just guesses.

I think this is the easiest fix providing there is enough meat on the casting to tap into.

 

[heymagic]

Thanks for the ideas. I will get the piece off the mast as soon as possible, get a good look at what is there, take some pics, and go from there.
Hey! It won't be going anywhere until spring, so winter is a good time to fix it up.
Earlier, I thought about removing the round "nuts" holding the bent hinge piece, separating the hinge from the casting, welding the cast piece as good as possible, adding a plate to the bottom of the casting, and bolting a new hinge piece on. That "sandwich" probably would not be as strong as what you guys are suggesting.
Changing the subject, this is the largest boat I have ever owned, and I'm really excited about the whole thing.
The hull is sound and dry. There are a few deck fittings to seal up and some cosmetic stuff (of course). The trailer, mast step and wiring, motor. tune up, and a little sail repair, and it's ready for the cosmetic stuff.
MikeB