Replacing genoa tracks on a 23-2?

[AndrewJillings]

The holes in the genoa tracks that receive the pin from the carriage have been chipped to the extent that under a force 3-4 the car will release and jump forward. The two possible solutions, as I see it, are to replace the tracks (timely/expensive) or get cars with longer pins.
Anyone have any experience with this? As a precurser to this, how can I take the plastic end caps off the tracks without dropping the nut into the black hole that is the hull of the boat?
Thanks to all who contribute!

 

[dlochner]

The end caps may be self-tapping screws not bolts, at they were on the boats I've owned.

 

[jssailem]

Problem: The holes in the genoa tracks that receive the pin from the carriage have been chipped to the extent that under a force 3-4 the car will release and jump forward.
Solution: The two possible solutions, as I see it, are to

1. replace the tracks (timely/expensive)
2. get cars with longer pins.

Without pictures of your track and the chipped holes, it is difficult to provide a definitive form of resolution.

CONJECTURE:
Here are some thoughts.
The pin-designed cars have always presented some frustration to owners. I have a traveler so designed for the mainsheet. My boat is 53 years old, and the traveler is of the same age. The pin relies on the metal track, not a hole in the fiberglass beneath the track. If your failure is that the track metal is not deep enough to secure the pinned car or has rounded edges on the surface, then track replacement would appear to be the best permanent solution. On the other hand, it could be that the pin in the car has become rounded. It no longer sits securely in the track holes. A squared-off pin might be all that you need.

Getting an end stop off the track may involve a through bolt or it may not. If you can not get to the space under the end stop so that you lose a nut, then how will you put a nut back onto the bolt?

 

[AndrewJillings]

Thanks John. Sorry for the lack of pictures. The metal track is what is rounding off/chipping, not the fibreglass underneath. I think the car is getting loose and lifting further from the track than the length of the pin can accommodate. There is no way to get to the underside of the screws/bolts that hold the track down or the end stops. Rather than risk dropping a nut into the bilge trying to remove the stop, I'm thinking of grinding off the part of the plastic stop that actually limits the car from running off the end of the track, and removing the car to examine the pin. Then when I put it back on I will use epoxy or 5200 to 'recreate' the stop.

 

[jssailem]

What if you ignored the pin (removed it) and made the car adjustable? It would improve your experience with trimming the jib. a couple of blocks and a cam cleat, presto, you have an adjustable car.

Sail Faster Sail Safer 4: Upwind trim – Yachting World

In Part 4 of our 12-part series professional sailing coach Pip Hare considers how to sort out upwind trim for optimum performance – and comfort

www.yachtingworld.com

Genoa Sheet-Lead Control Systems - Practical Sailor

Since 1974, Practical Sailor’s independent testing has taken the guesswork out of boat and gear buying.

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[Stu Jackson]

Andrew, that's a good plan to take the end stop(s) off the examine the pin. I have two jib sheet movable sheaves on each side (to better lead back to aft turning blocks) and I removed the aft stops eons ago and never put them back, initially because I was playing with different cars for a time, then realized if I need to in the future, why bother with them at all. That was 20 years ago! I certainly would never use epoxy or 5200, why give yourself grief? I second the idea of seeing if you really have bolts or just screws. I had bolts but I also had access. And yes, you're right, it could be a faulty car rather than a track hole issue. Good luck.

I'm thinking of grinding off the part of the plastic stop that actually limits the car from running off the end of the track, and removing the car to examine the pin. Then when I put it back on I will use epoxy or 5200 to 'recreate' the stop.

 

[AndrewJillings]

Thanks to everyone who wrote back. I managed to get the cars off both sides tonight, and I think I can see the problem. The car on the left is perfectly well behaved, no slipping, no rattling. The other one the right is sloppy and the narrow pin has ripped through the holes in the tracks. Now I need to find another of the left ones.... anyone?

 

[dlochner]

What is the track width?

There maybe something on eBay that will work or you can buy new. Schaefer still makes them, they ain't cheap. There are other brands which may work and are more affordable.

https://defender.com/en_us/schaefer-aluminum-stand-up-spring-block-504-82

It is also possible to buy just the slide and add your own car and spring, that might be cheaper.

 

[Stu Jackson]

It appears that they are two different types. The one on the left is spring loaded, the one on the right is a screw type. Most likely the screw type has resulted in the fatigue to the pin. ITWMB, I'd just buy a new spring type and throw away the screw type.

You can find car with white sheaves like that with Ronstan or Shaeffer, but Garhauer makes much less expensive but just as good if not better quality gear, although it looks different.

BONUS Request: your end tracks removal - screws or bolts????

Now I need to find another of the left ones.... anyone?