Rewiring C22, need help w master switch configuration as well as solar hookup

[hudson_rogue]

Ok, I've read Sailboat Electrics Simplified, and traced the existing wires to the best of my ability. I want more switches than on the original panel, so my plan is to repurposed the panel holes and add a fuse block. I have read through the book and also available C22 wiring diagrams.

I'm still left with the following questions.

Does all power run through the one master switch as I've drawn in my diagram?

If I want to add solar charging I'm not clear where to patch that in (that might be a separate thread).

I have a Blue Sea fuse block as well but it doesn't have the negative bus bar some I'm considering using this Kohree model.

 

[...3TacksontheWater]

I would suggest that you consider:

Electrical Panel Master DC Kit 7" x 5-1/4"

Catalina Direct, publishers of the Catalina 22 and Catalina 25 Owner's Handbooks and the largest supplier of parts and Lewmar winches for Catalina Yachts in the country

www.catalinadirect.com

As your replacement electrical panel. It provides switches for your cabin, all navigation and steaming light plus deck light and anchor light. The panel provides two breakers, a Master for the 5 primary circuits and a second breaker and Master for the three auxiliary circuits. See the following for install:

Regarding Solar charging, my solar panel is mounted on the starboard side of the pushpit and I use an inline Amazon sourced controller connected directly to the battery for charging. Two years in with this set up and there are no issues, the battery is fully charged each time I return to the boat.

George

 

[dlochner]

Does all power run through the one master switch as I've drawn in my diagram?

Yes. A single master ON/off switch is highly desirable for convenience and to isolate the main panel when working on it.

I have a Blue Sea fuse block as well but it doesn't have the negative bus bar some I'm considering using this Kohree model.

Blue Sea makes a comparable fuse block to Kohree. Blue Sea is a known company and known for quality products. I've never heard of Kohree, is that an Amazon only brand? Those are always suspect when considering quality. Blue Sea has a 6 and 12 circuit fuse block.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/5025/ST_Blade_Fuse_Block_-_6_Circuits_with_Negative_Bus_and_Cover

If I want to add solar charging I'm not clear where to patch that in (that might be a separate thread).

The simplest way is to connect the battery DC+ and the MMPT DC+ to a single bus bar and then to the circuit breaker panel. A Battery Charger could also be connected to the DC+ bus. There needs to be a fuse on the battery to protect all the down stream wiring and a fuse between the MMPT and the bus and the charger (if installed) and the bus.

Except for very small solar panels, all solar panels need to have a controller. Generally an MMPT controller is best. Solar panels put out a little current at high voltages. The high voltages will damage the battery. The controller drops the solar panel voltage and increases the amperage to make the power useable in a 12v system.

 

[east coaster]

An excellent and copious source of electrical practical information on just about everything electrical and batteries is Pacific Yacht Systems in Vancouver Canada. Lots of videos and are tariff free.

 

[OS2Dude]

BlueSea sells busbars that can be used for NEG or POS. They also sell premade electrical panels or modular electrical panels that you can configure for your needs.
Solar panels go to a DC disconnect, then to a solar controller (preferably an MPPT controller) and the controller output goes to the battery with a fused connection. I prefer to have the battery go to a POS & NEG bus, then connect the charge sources and unswitched devices (like a bilge pump) there. From that bus a connection to the battery disconnect switch and from there to all the switched device on the panel. I like the Victron Lynx Distributor for this, as it can accommodate the required fuses as well. Don't forget your primary circuit protection on each battery in your bank. If you have a flooded lead acid, an MRBF should do on the POS post of each battery. Check the Short Circuit Current (SCC) of your battery. If the SCC is less than the Amperage Interrupt Current (AIC) rating of the PCP fuse, then you are good. If you have Lithium, you will likely need a Class-T fuse with an AIC of 20,000A.

Think about your future plans and buy the basics for what you want to eventually have. I am not a Victron Snob, but I do like that the components can communicate with each other. I started with Renology, and they did the job well, but required manual intervention since they did not talk to each other.

 

[dlochner]

If you have Lithium, you will likely need a Class-T fuse with an AIC of 20,000A.

ABYC changed the fuse rating for LFP batteries this year. The AIC is now 5 times the amphour capacity of the battery. MRBF fuses will work for smaller LFP batteries, under 200ah.

 

[hudson_rogue]

Think about your future plans and buy the basics for what you want to eventually have. I am not a Victron Snob, but I do like that the components can communicate with each other. I started with Renology, and they did the job well, but required manual intervention since they did not talk to each other.

Thank you. In terms of planning for the future, I'm wondering if it makes sense to have this large deep cycle battery anymore. If I switch all the lighting to LED, and currently my motor is a pull cord start... what is this deep cycle battery that came with the boat really doing?

 

[...3TacksontheWater]

Thank you. In terms of planning for the future, I'm wondering if it makes sense to have this large deep cycle battery anymore. If I switch all the lighting to LED, and currently my motor is a pull cord start... what is this deep cycle battery that came with the boat really doing?

It's weighing you down but, if you have a pre-New Design boat the weight is at least well positioned. You can invest in a group 24 LiFePO4 battery and save about 35 or more pounds of weight while having far more usable power reserves. The group 27 battery my PO had weighed in at 60 pounds and my group 24 LiFePO4 weights 22 pounds.

George

 

[dlochner]

Thank you. In terms of planning for the future, I'm wondering if it makes sense to have this large deep cycle battery anymore. If I switch all the lighting to LED, and currently my motor is a pull cord start... what is this deep cycle battery that came with the boat really doing?

The first step in designing any electrical system is to determine the load that will be on the system. What electrical devices will you be using? How much current will they draw? How long will each device be on each day? This will tell you how much battery capacity you will need.

Next determine how the batteries will be recharged and how frequently. Will the boat be at a marina with shore power? Or on a mooring? Will the boat be sailed at night?

Once you have an idea about these issues, then we can talk about what kind of battery and how big a battery would be appropriate for your needs and budget.

Attached is a sample load analysis for a much larger and more complicated boat than yours, however, it will provide an idea of what one looks like and what items you might want to include.