Hunter 340 factory non skid deck re-do

[markymac1961]

Hi Folks,
I have a 1999 Hunter 340, and as per the pic below, not sure what previous owner did here... but looks like he tried to use way too little deck paint!
It's an ugly mess and high time I sorted it.
I really like the original factory impregnated non skid, and would like to retain it if poss.
I'm considering a product from here 'down under' called Kiwigrip (made in NZ) which seems quite popular.
They recommend their special 'stipple' roller to create non skid 'peaks and troughs' on a completely flat deck, but in my case, this would ruin what is already there. The product is also quite thick, (think porridge) but can be thinned with up to 10% water.
So... here's my plan:
1. Light (and careful) orbital sand to key the existing impreg deck tread.
2. Acid deck wash/thorough rinse.
3. Detailed mask up
4. Thin Kiwigrip with 10% water to allow flow into existing deck pattern.
5. Hand paint with quality brush, spreading it out to retain the existing moulded non skid. (Product apparently only needs a single coat... but I wouldn't want to go too thin.)

Please let me know if you have an any similar experiences with refurbishing the Hunter factory decks, OR... have a far better idea re product recommendations / application / whatever???
I'm all ears folks cheers.
Mark Mac SV 'Chummy' QLD Austraya

 

[dlochner]

Kiwi Grip works because of the texture caused by the roller more than by any inherent non-slip quality the paint. As I understand the product, it is quite thick and will probably fill the valleys in the existing non-skid giving you a nice smooth finish if it is applied by brush.

Paint remover might remove the old paint while retaining the textured surface.

 

[jssailem]

I would explore the BoatworksToday site. Andy has a couple of ideas on Non-Skid decks.

 

[Joe]

KiwiGrip only needs one coat. As Dave noted the non-skid effect is controlled by the brush roller, which is included with the product.
It is thick and even though you can thin it with water it will not "run" in to the crevassed areas like regular paint. The texture of the non skid is determined by how you use the roller. My first experience with the product was positive, once I experimented on a piece of plywood to get the feel of the texture rolling.

Follow the prep instructions, you do not have to remove paint or gel coat, just dirt and such. Use the best tape, being meticulous about razor cutting the curved corners. Razor cuts left in the surface when cutting the tape contours will be filled by the kiwigrip. For a clean edge, remove the tape right after product application, while it is still soft. Do not wait for it to dry before removing.

As I mentioned earlier, getting the degree of aggressiveness with the texture requires a little experimentation. So be patient, be methodical and your boat will literally look brand new. As a bonus, KiwiGrip can be easily maintained when high traffic areas need touching up. Nothing more than cleaning with a brush and adding product right over the top.

Finally, if you would be happier with a refreshed non skid, similar to your existing molded in surface, then KiwiGrip is NOT the product you want. KiwiGrip is NOT paint, it is like a rubber coating that has been textured. (you know, like a textured ceiling in a house). There are other strategies for refurbishing non skid. My original plan was to apply a thin primer coat to fill the hairline cracks, then paint over the molded, gelcoat with a traditional non skid product that includes a "grit" product that is added afterwards. That works really well with flat, non-molded decks, but I was not sold on the process where the molded bumps, not the grit, were the non skid element.

There are some other products that have proven popular. Laminate sheets with molded non skid is one I considered, but there was a skill level needed to make it look integral to the boat's appearance. Lately there have been some flexible, faux teak products that look really good. Again, I didn't pursue it because the cost and installation expertise needed was far more than the KiwiGrip I settled on, In the end, I was extremely happy, and actually quite proud of the result. My tired, faded, blue factory molded non-skid with the million hairlines is NO MORE. The light gray kiwigrip finish made the boat look brand new.... or at least not tired, heh, heh.

 

[markymac1961]

KiwiGrip only needs one coat. As Dave noted the non-skid effect is controlled by the brush roller, which is included with the product.
It is thick and even though you can thin it with water it will not "run" in to the crevassed areas like regular paint. The texture of the non skid is determined by how you use the roller. My first experience with the product was positive, once I experimented on a piece of plywood to get the feel of the texture rolling.

Follow the prep instructions, you do not have to remove paint or gel coat, just dirt and such. Use the best tape, being meticulous about razor cutting the curved corners. Razor cuts left in the surface when cutting the tape contours will be filled by the kiwigrip. For a clean edge, remove the tape right after product application, while it is still soft. Do not wait for it to dry before removing.

As I mentioned earlier, getting the degree of aggressiveness with the texture requires a little experimentation. So be patient, be methodical and your boat will literally look brand new. As a bonus, KiwiGrip can be easily maintained when high traffic areas need touching up. Nothing more than cleaning with a brush and adding product right over the top.

Finally, if you would be happier with a refreshed non skid, similar to your existing molded in surface, then KiwiGrip is NOT the product you want. KiwiGrip is NOT paint, it is like a rubber coating that has been textured. (you know, like a textured ceiling in a house). There are other strategies for refurbishing non skid. My original plan was to apply a thin primer coat to fill the hairline cracks, then paint over the molded, gelcoat with a traditional non skid product that includes a "grit" product that is added afterwards. That works really well with flat, non-molded decks, but I was not sold on the process where the molded bumps, not the grit, were the non skid element.

There are some other products that have proven popular. Laminate sheets with molded non skid is one I considered, but there was a skill level needed to make it look integral to the boat's appearance. Lately there have been some flexible, faux teak products that look really good. Again, I didn't pursue it because the cost and installation expertise needed was far more than the KiwiGrip I settled on, In the end, I was extremely happy, and actually quite proud of the result. My tired, faded, blue factory molded non-skid with the million hairlines is NO MORE. The light gray kiwigrip finish made the boat look brand new.... or at least not tired, heh, heh.

Hi Joe,
Thanks for the detailed response mate cheers... and I noticed you're from Mission Bay SD. As an aside... while backpacking the World in the early 90's, I worked as a sailing instructor for a cuppla months at the 'Mission Beach Sports Centre' I think it was called. It was a really big show, all aquatic based training progams, probably employed 20-30 instructors... and I loved every minute of it. Wondering if it still exists?
Anyway... back to my deck.
Great to hear you've actually used the Kiwigrip with great results. (I'm too scared to flip the lid off my tin until I work out a plan.)
My pre patterned factory non skid gelcoat deck is actually in really good condition. Which is why I want to keep it 'as is'.
The very thin coats of 'grey whatever?' the previous owner applied is also in really good condition with no cracking or peeling. He just used too little paint.
So my 'challenge' here is pretty much cosmetic/aesthetic.
The reason I was going to go with thinned down Kiwigrip and a quality brush, rather than their stipple roller, is that I figured I could carefully 'run' the brushstrokes out a bit to retain the highs and lows of the impreg pattern and minimise 'pooling' of the product in the troughs.
I know 'brushing out' will result in a pretty thin layer, but a combination of the rubbery Kiwigrip and the existing gelcoat pattern should hopefully give me a good looking result that is grippy under foot.
Bearing in mind that as my serious ocean racing days are well and truly behind me... should myself, my crew and my boat ever experience conditions where we are 'heeling' to the point of requiring perfect non skid to stop us all sliding off the deck... we'll be immediately dropping sails, starting the motor, and racing back to the Marina for a 'Brewskie.' Cheers for your input mate. Happy Sailin' - Marky Mac

 

[Alan K]

The deck on my 2000 380 looks similar to your Pic. After 26 years in the sun, the factory gray paint on the non-skid has warn away. I'm in the process of remolding a couple of warn non-skid spots with white gel-coat and a rubber mold sheet. Then I plan on just repainting the non-skid as it was before.

 

[colemj]

To me, your deck looks like the factory applied grey gelcoat in the mold in the non-skid areas, then sprayed the entire mold with white gelcoat, and the grey gelcoat has worn off the tops of the non-skid pattern.

If you are sure a PO applied paint, then why not just use a paint remover to get rid of it? Then you would have your factory non-skid back, which you say is in good condition.

I've never used kiwigrip, but have been on several boats with it. There is no way, nor any amount of thinning, where kiwigrip is going to work with and maintain the existing non-skid pattern. It will completely fill and level it. Even thin paint is going to do so to a large extent.

Since your existing non-skid appears in great condition, one option is to take molds from each section. This leaves you with two choices:

1. Use those molds to make new non-skid panels with the gelcoat color of your choice, and glue them on.

2. Use those molds to apply new gelcoat on the existing non-skid. This would be done very carefully by waxing then spraying the mold with PVA, thinly coating both the mold and the prepped non-skid with gelcoat, and setting the mold down evenly back into the non-skid with some light weight on it. When it cures, you should have gelcoated non-skid again. It is likely you will have some pulls, but these can be spot-repaired in a similar manner.

Mark

 

[Joe]

Hi Joe,
Thanks for the detailed response mate cheers... and I noticed you're from Mission Bay SD. As an aside... while backpacking the World in the early 90's, I worked as a sailing instructor for a cuppla months at the 'Mission Beach Sports Centre' I think it was called. It was a really big show, all aquatic based training progams, probably employed 20-30 instructors... and I loved every minute of it. Wondering if it still exists?
Anyway... back to my deck.
Great to hear you've actually used the Kiwigrip with great results. (I'm too scared to flip the lid off my tin until I work out a plan.)
My pre patterned factory non skid gelcoat deck is actually in really good condition. Which is why I want to keep it 'as is'.
The very thin coats of 'grey whatever?' the previous owner applied is also in really good condition with no cracking or peeling. He just used too little paint.
So my 'challenge' here is pretty much cosmetic/aesthetic.
The reason I was going to go with thinned down Kiwigrip and a quality brush, rather than their stipple roller, is that I figured I could carefully 'run' the brushstrokes out a bit to retain the highs and lows of the impreg pattern and minimise 'pooling' of the product in the troughs.
I know 'brushing out' will result in a pretty thin layer, but a combination of the rubbery Kiwigrip and the existing gelcoat pattern should hopefully give me a good looking result that is grippy under foot.
Bearing in mind that as my serious ocean racing days are well and truly behind me... should myself, my crew and my boat ever experience conditions where we are 'heeling' to the point of requiring perfect non skid to stop us all sliding off the deck... we'll be immediately dropping sails, starting the motor, and racing back to the Marina for a 'Brewskie.' Cheers for your input mate. Happy Sailin' - Marky Mac

Marky, I believe you're over thinking this project. As I stated in the earlier post, using KiwiGrip in the manner you propose is unnecessary. If you don't want my opinion, I suggest you contact the KiwiGrip folks and submit your idea to them. Once you open the can an see the product, once you touch it and spread it out...it will be unbelievably evident that it's NOT paint.

So.... fill in the hairline cracks with thinned primer. Then lay on a coat of non-skid paint... adding grit as you see fit. The paint will take on the bumpy contours (you'll want to experiment with thinning, of course). The primer should have been adequately thinned to fill the cracks, the paint should cover the deck in thin coats.. non-skid paint has dull, non-glossy surface. On purely flat decks, with no molded non-skid, the grit element is added for the grippy finish. You may or not want to do this.'

Choosing to use the Kiwigrip will completely change the character of your deck... for the good! You'll no longer have any bumps... the surface will look brand new. So don't waste time and resources trying to get me or other users of the product to support your unusual plan. Good luck....have fun...keep sailing.

PS,,, At Santa Clara Pt. peninsula in MB there were two recreational facilities. The north side had a sailing oriented facility that has changed over the years but may still have public sailing rentals, I'm not sure. However, the south end of Santa Clara Pt. is the location of the Mission Bay Aquatic Center. It is operated by the local JC, college and universities for student and alumni. The public can also take their classes (at a higher fee of course) but when I was active there back in the 80's and 90's only students and alumni were given recreation sailing privileges(rental) It was an awesome benefit. You could rent a Laser, Holder 14, Hobie cat for 3 hours for about $20. Which was less than the HOURLY rate at the place on the north end of the Pt. The catch was you had to have completed the program's classes for each boat design.. and... you had to rig and launch the vessel on your own... there's no cabana boy on the beach to help you. I used to take the 3 hr water ski session in the morning, then come back after lunch and sail a laser or hobie cat for the 3 hr afternoon session. Top it off with a beer and rolled tacos at Taco Surf in Pacific Beach. Needless to say I slept well that evening.

 

[markymac1961]

Marky, I believe you're over thinking this project. As I stated in the earlier post, using KiwiGrip in the manner you propose is unnecessary. If you don't want my opinion, I suggest you contact the KiwiGrip folks and submit your idea to them. Once you open the can an see the product, once you touch it and spread it out...it will be unbelievably evident that it's NOT paint.

So.... fill in the hairline cracks with thinned primer. Then lay on a coat of non-skid paint... adding grit as you see fit. The paint will take on the bumpy contours (you'll want to experiment with thinning, of course). The primer should have been adequately thinned to fill the cracks, the paint should cover the deck in thin coats.. non-skid paint has dull, non-glossy surface. On purely flat decks, with no molded non-skid, the grit element is added for the grippy finish. You may or not want to do this.'

Choosing to use the Kiwigrip will completely change the character of your deck... for the good! You'll no longer have any bumps... the surface will look brand new. So don't waste time and resources trying to get me or other users of the product to support your unusual plan. Good luck....have fun...keep sailing.

Thanks Joe. I actually contacted the Kiwigrip people first off before I posted on the forum. Sadly I got a pretty much an obvious AI generated answer that made zero sense. I shall press on cheers - Mark Mac