Windlass trouble-shooting

Rich Stidger · Jun 6, 2026

Listen for relay clicking while operating the new control. I presume you bought a new control because the old was bad.
If you hear relay clicking, then most likely the windlass motor brushes have failed. If you don't hear relay clicking, then you need to open the controller box and measure to see if you are getting power to the relay coils.
While the controller could be fine, the connections between the controller and the relay could be broken or corroded.
If the motor brushes are bad, then they need to be replaced.
In my experience windlass' are high maintenance items.

jssailem · Jun 6, 2026

NYSail said:
Maybe hit it with a hammer….. ha

In the days of vacuum tube electronics, a hammer was a required tool box item. Sometimes it was a number 13 boot.

Rich Stidger · Jun 6, 2026

NYSail said:
Simple is the first place.
I know I was missing something!

Greg
s/v Souleil

Are you new here? Did you read the owners manual?

marcham · Jun 6, 2026

Congrats!

Beneteau does that mainly for charter boat use. Most owners remove the relay and connect the windlass to the house battery. That way, you can adjust the rode length without the rigmarole of starting the engine. It also removes a possible point of failure.

The first thing to go is usually the control relay box. It's worthwhile to keep a spare one onboard just in case. In a pinch, the box can be bypassed and the motor directly operated, to get the anchor back on deck.

Don't forget the annual maintenance (shown in the manual), it makes the difference between a windlass that lasts forever or only 8-10 years. Water and moisture gets in. Left unchecked, you'll face a sudden progressive failure. Clean and grease annually and it should last forever.

The relays have a limited lifespan because each actuatuation creates a tiny spark. Eventually, the spark wears out the contact metal and it prevents a good contact. They sometimes can be cleaned but that's usually just life support.

Captain Larry-DH · Sunday at 3:17 AM

Congratulations on the GOBI award.

marcham said:
Congrats!

Beneteau does that mainly for charter boat use. Most owners remove the relay and connect the windlass to the house battery. That way, you can adjust the rode length without the rigmarole of starting the engine. It also removes a possible point of failure.

The first thing to go is usually the control relay box. It's worthwhile to keep a spare one onboard just in case. In a pinch, the box can be bypassed and the motor directly operated, to get the anchor back on deck.

Don't forget the annual maintenance (shown in the manual), it makes the difference between a windlass that lasts forever or only 8-10 years. Water and moisture gets in. Left unchecked, you'll face a sudden progressive failure. Clean and grease annually and it should last forever.

The relays have a limited lifespan because each actuatuation creates a tiny spark. Eventually, the spark wears out the contact metal and it prevents a good contact. They sometimes can be cleaned but that's usually just life support.

1. You can’t remove the relay, it must be replaced as it’s needed to handle the heavy current that the motor demands, whereas the control switch and wiring are light duty. The way to bypass the Beneteau engine power interlock is to run a battery ground wire connection straight to the relay control connector for it. Also, the engine doesn’t actually need to be running but the engine power needs to be on. See diagram below (from Quick) which shows a typical windlass control configuration.
2. Your comment about the arc causing wear is correct. Usually it causes intermittent operation before totally failing, but after winter storage a hard failure wouldn’t be surprising. It’s a good idea to keep a spare on board.

marcham · Sunday at 4:28 PM

Captain Larry-DH said:
Congratulations on the GOBI award.

1. You can’t remove the relay, it must be replaced as it’s needed to handle the heavy current that the motor demands, whereas the control switch and wiring are light duty. The way to bypass the Beneteau engine power interlock is to run a battery ground wire connection straight to the relay control connector for it. Also, the engine doesn’t actually need to be running but the engine power needs to be on. See diagram below (from Quick) which shows a typical windlass control configuration.
2. Your comment about the arc causing wear is correct. Usually it causes intermittent operation before totally failing, but after winter storage a hard failure wouldn’t be surprising. It’s a good idea to keep a spare on board.
View attachment 238076

Ok, I've seen two with a relay in the engine compartment, but yes, essential the ignition needs to be ON for the windlass control switches to receive 12 V. By having it wired this way for charter use, it avoids accidentally depleteeting the house battery. Beneteau does other things that are charter friendly but owner unfriendly like hiding most of the 12V fuses/breakers behind a panel (DIN rail mounted).

With an owner mod consisting of connecting the windlass up/down SWITCH 12V input directly to the house panel (5A breaker) and moving the large gauge motor power cable from the start batt to the house batt, an owner can adjust the rode length anytime, without having to start the engine, even if the start batt is switched off.

This control wire from the engine (alternator?) is wired G1 if I recall correctly, and is usually mod no 1 by most owners. Some dealers would even ask new owners if they wanted this change before delivery....

colemj · Monday at 10:43 AM

I'm not understanding this engine interlock and why it isn't easy to just disconnect. My first thought was that it was probably a simple Bosch relay somewhere that cut out the operation of the control switches. But it sounds like it is some complicated main power relay?

If it was me, I'd just trace the windlass power leads back to wherever they connect, then disconnect them and move them to the main battery bus - bypassing any of the silly stuff.

I don't understand why this interconnect is done on boats. Windlasses can be a safety item where you might need to get it up/down immediately without going back and starting the engine. Not to mention the inconvenience when just wanting to let out another few feet of chain. It would be a pretty bad battery that couldn't handle a bit of windlass operation without being simultaneously charged.

Mark

Captain Larry-DH · Monday at 11:22 AM

colemj said:
I'm not understanding this engine interlock and why it isn't easy to just disconnect. My first thought was that it was probably a simple Bosch relay somewhere that cut out the operation of the control switches. But it sounds like it is some complicated main power relay?

If it was me, I'd just trace the windlass power leads back to wherever they connect, then disconnect them and move them to the main battery bus - bypassing any of the silly stuff.

I don't understand why this interconnect is done on boats. Windlasses can be a safety item where you might need to get it up/down immediately without going back and starting the engine. Not to mention the inconvenience when just wanting to let out another few feet of chain. It would be a pretty bad battery that couldn't handle a bit of windlass operation without being simultaneously charged.

Mark

They do it on boats designed for charter because they have problems with idiots who run the house batteries flat. This requires them to start the engine (it doesn’t actually need to be running, just powered on, but the alarm will annoy them until they start it).
On the Leopard cats it is done by a circuit to the engine power switch relay that interrupts the windlass control relay power (on DC ground) unless engine power is switched on. The simple fix is to run a direct light duty ground wire to connect the push terminal of the control relay to a DC ground (in place of the factory wire). Refer to the diagram I posted earlier in this thread.

Davidasailor26 · Monday at 12:20 PM

colemj said:
Windlasses can be a safety item where you might need to get it up/down immediately without going back and starting the engine. Not to mention the inconvenience when just wanting to let out another few feet of chain

The windlass does have a clutch release, so in a safety critical situation you could quickly drop the anchor or play out some extra rode without any electricity at all. Weighing anchor without the engine running, or at least the “ignition” on, seems like a pretty rare case.

Kings Gambit · Monday at 8:08 PM

NYSail said:
Good morning all…..

windlass is a Lewmar H2. Worked with no issues for the past 9 years including last season till the day the boat went to bed. Plugged the 1 year old controller in and nothing. Plugged the old controller in and again nothing. Pulled out, cleaned and sprayed contacts, plugged new controller in and nothing. breaker works and is in the on position. Checked power all the way up to the junction box in the bow and all good. Next step I bought and will replace the relay that’s in the junction box.

I put my ear to the windlass when pressing up/down and don’t hear anything…..

Any advice??

thanks!
Greg
s/v Soulei

Are there any connections "downstream" of the junction box? Check wires going into motor with a slight "tug"to see if anything comes free.

Windlass trouble-shooting

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SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John

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