Hunter 29.5 converting to midboom sheeting

IgorC

.
Apr 12, 2008
18
Hunter 29.5 -
I am considering switching from endboom to midboom sheeting. I would like to have a room for the electronics at the helm. I wouldn't mind having a full enclosure that is currently impossible unless you're motoring.

Would someone be able to share a picture of midboom sheeting and what hardware is used?
 
Aug 17, 2013
1,268
Pearson P30 202 Ottawa
I was looking into doing the same, it will all depend on your existing boom, it might not be strong enough for the extra strength needed for mid sheet loading
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,455
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Converting a boat from end boom to mid-boom main sheeting is certainly possible. Some pros and cons affect how the boat will perform after the conversion. These compromises should be understood.

Copies of the owner's manual can be found here:

The sail plan shows the end boom sheeting. Reasons for this design choice include:
  • End-boom takes less force on the boom to trim the sails.
  • The hardware needed to manage the sail is less expensive.
  • The boat's sail plan is to have the Mainsail be the primary power of the boat. With the mainsail sheet on the boom end, the sheet can be managed near the helm to ease or dump the wind out of the sail during a gust that could knock the boat down.
On the other hand,
  • With the mainsheet in the cockpit, it shrinks the cockpit, making it less inviting for socializing.
  • Installing a cockpit enclosure would be more challenging.
  • Adding navigational MFD's means installing them in the salon bulkhead far from the helm. There is no easy space to add them in the cockpit.
It is your boat and your choice. Consider all of the alternatives.

Here is an image showing the hardware needed. A 4:1 to 6:1 purchase system is common. This might include a triple block or fiddle block on the boom (e.g., Harken or Ronstan 55-75mm orbit blocks), a ratchet block with cam cleat on the traveler car for easy trimming, and turning blocks if routing along the boom. Opt for ball-bearing or ratchet types to reduce friction. Friction is your enemy. Choose your blocks wisely.
1772385163756.png
 
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Apr 8, 2010
2,231
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
Installing a cockpit enclosure is impossible
With all due respect, I would suggest different wording. I have seen this done on a lot of boats with bridgedeck travelers and they have a full dodger with a bimini, with a gap in between. At anchor or at the dock a zip-in fill piece closes that gap; if there is a lot of rain, some owners have a snap shackle on the main tackle, and move the boom out to a position over one side or the other to keep most drips out.
So, having a full enclosure makes dodger design integrated with a bimini more challenging due to the extra panel.
Having seen it done many boats, my take on this is that an experienced canvas shop can do this easily. Adding the side curtains to achieve full enclosure is about the same, either way.

Since all the bimini tops I have seen do have a zipper connection with the rear of the dodger, this section uses a zip-both-ways piece (s) to fill the center when desired. A dodger & bimini structure was built like this for our boat, years ago.

BTW, I sail with a buddy with a 35 footer with "full canvas" -- and removing enough covers and side windows, including the cover over the vision window in the Bimini top, is time consuming. This can reduce time spent sailing rather than motoring. :(
(No problem when you have several enthusiastic sailing friends aboard to assist you, but lot of covers and vision-reducing windows may reduce sailing time when it's just you and a spouse/family that are already ambivalent about sailing. )

Addendum: Make damned sure that your boats cabin top will take the considerable forces of the new traveler. Budget for ball-bearing blocks, including the mast base turning block. Also a new ST winch on the rear of the housetop. This change in sheeting will make single handing a good deal more challenging, as well.
A quick look at basic data shows your mainsail area at approx. 230 SF, compared to 250 SF for our boat, That's a lot of sail, and the load on the main sheet would really jump up if that sheet were attached more than halfway forward on the boom, as it would appear to need to clear your hatch opening. Some deck/house load and rigging engineering would be required, best done by a NA.

Lots to consider, and considerable money will be required. Spending $5K (or more) for the full package of canvas, windows, and covers kind of gets one's attention. If you are OK with the compromises, and plan to enjoy your boat for at least another decade, it will all amortise out OK, strictly IMHO.
Good Luck whatever your decision!
:)
 
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Jan 11, 2014
13,951
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
Addendum: Make damned sure that your boats cabin top will take the considerable forces of the new traveler. Budget for ball-bearing blocks, including the mast base turning block. Also a new ST winch on the rear of the housetop. This change in sheeting will make single handing a good deal more challenging, as well.
A quick look at basic data shows your mainsail area at approx. 230 SF, compared to 250 SF for our boat, That's a lot of sail, and the load on the main sheet would really jump up if that sheet were attached more than halfway forward on the boom, as it would appear to need to clear your hatch opening. Some deck/house load and rigging engineering would be required, best done by a NA.
The forces on the boom also increase, which is important because the boom may not be strong enough to handle those forces causing it to fail.
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,455
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
Terms changed to "more challenging".
 
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IgorC

.
Apr 12, 2008
18
Hunter 29.5 -
Thank you for all responses and suggestions, much appreciated! It seems more complex, and, based on hardware pricing, moving sheeting is also very costly. Maybe I just stick with my current setup for now. Simple 6:1 end-boom setup for main sheet.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
24,455
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
There is that. :biggrin:
Which is very reasonable. The 29.5 is an agile boat with speed (hull speed of 6.9 knots) and comfort aboard. Easy to sail for a small or solo crew.

Then there is finding a bigger boat that has more functional features that meet your developing desires. Say in the 32-35 foot range. They have enclosures and bigger interior spaces and were designed with mid boom sheeting or arches that open up the cockpit to become party central while in the marina or at a secluded anchorage with friends.

Unfortunately, this comes with a greater investment in a boat to yield fulfilling developing desires.
 

chp

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Sep 13, 2010
440
Hunter 280 hamilton
I looked into doing that with my 280. After posting to the Hunter advice guys on here I found out what everyone is saying about the boom. The midsheet was an option on my boat. There is a difference of the boom strength. Without changing the boom you take the chance of buckling the boom. That killed that idea.
 
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Mar 26, 2011
3,943
Corsair F-24 MK I Deale, MD
The forces on the boom also increase, which is important because the boom may not be strong enough to handle those forces causing it to fail.
Depending on the exact location, about double.

There is also the bending moment on the boom. 6:1 x 50 pounds. But also, consider the peak force during a rough jibe. Could be 1000 pounds at the mid-point. (Testing suggests triple the windward sheet load is common.)