I have leaky windows on my 86 New Design Catalina 22. I can't find any info on how to reseal those frameless windows (lots of info on original design windows with metal frames). Any help or direction would be appreciated
How to Reseal New Design Frameless Windows
- Thread starter RKenSailor
- Start date
Installing New Fixed Portlights | Boatworks Today
In this video I mount some new fixed portlights using 3M VHB tape. VHB stands for Very High Bond, and it does exactly what it says it does! When installing polycarbonate or acrylic panels /
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This is the first time I ever heard of those windows leaking! If yours are as crazed as mine, I would consider replacing them entirely, and be done with it forever.
I replaced the windows in our Albin Vega using the same method @Ralph Johnstone posted. I was happy with the results, and I plan to do the same in our C22 someday soon-ish. It's one of those things I should have done already but always found a way to keep putting it off.
I replaced the windows in our Albin Vega using the same method @Ralph Johnstone posted. I was happy with the results, and I plan to do the same in our C22 someday soon-ish. It's one of those things I should have done already but always found a way to keep putting it off.
Thank you. This is an excellent video that gives me enough detail to feel confident in taking this on. My windows have small screws into the glass and the leaky windows on the port side have add'l screws through the glass with lock washers and nuts on the cabin side.Installing New Fixed Portlights | Boatworks Today
In this video I mount some new fixed portlights using 3M VHB tape. VHB stands for Very High Bond, and it does exactly what it says it does! When installing polycarbonate or acrylic panels /
Those that don't go all the way through look to be original. Do you think I could just fill those holes and use your method?
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Do you know if the screws in those windows are original?This is the first time I ever heard of those windows leaking! If yours are as crazed as mine, I would consider replacing them entirely, and be done with it forever.
I replaced the windows in our Albin Vega using the same method @Ralph Johnstone posted. I was happy with the results, and I plan to do the same in our C22 someday soon-ish. It's one of those things I should have done already but always found a way to keep putting it off.
Also, any idea where to get new windows or have them made for a reasonable price? Mine are also pretty crazed as well.
Because it can be a messy job.
Sounds like some one tried to stop a leak using screws to increase the compression on the sealant. The 3m VHB tape Andy uses in Boatworkstoday with an appropriate sealant should not require screws, except as a temporary measure to help align the acrylic. In this case the screws do not go through the lens, the screws are left proud of the cabin side and the lens sits on top of the screws and are removed once the lens has been secured to the VHB tape.
Acrylic (plexiglass) and fiberglass expand and contract at different rates. If screws are ever used to secure acrylic the holes need to be over sized to avoid cracking the acrylic. Of course this introduces a nice path for water to get in between the sealant and acrylic.
Try Catalina Direct or if you are comfortable using a router, you can fabricate your own. Buy an appropriate size cast acrylic panel (TAPP PLASTICS). Try to remove existing lens without breaking and use it as a template Or fabricate a template from plywood. Rough cut the new acrylic lens to approximate size using a jig saw and use your template & router to duplicate the lens. Probably the least expensive method of replacement especially if you’re going to replace all.
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My port side front is foggy. Ive been wanting to replace all of them for awhile too. Good luck with it and let us know how it goes.
The screws in our C22 are original. I think @dlochner is correct, yours have been fiddled with by a previous owner.
I don't think you will find new windows for sale. If you're handy, it's not rocket science to remove yours, trace them onto new acrylic ("Plexiglass") sheet, and cut them out. If you're not, I would expect a local glass shop could do it.
I'm waiting for some cooler fall weather. I already have the window tracing kit from CD and, as soon as Mother Nature cooperates with a fair weather weekend, I'll be spending a day tracing out the existing windows and then return the patterns to CD to order up the new windows. Do they have to be installed right away? Nah. But, having the replacement windows on hand and ready for install as opposed to starting at square one will bring me one step closer to checking off another box on the to-do list. lol
George
Right on. It seems odd they would need you to trace the window pattern. Surely Catalina used an assembly line to make their windows on their new design and didn't cut each one based on individual dimensions. Weird. Anyways good luck!
Yes, it’s arduous enough removing the lens & reinstalling much less fabricating the lens from scratch! Great that CD offers replacement lens service. I had to replace a deck mounted skylight lens three years ago; Beneteau wanted over $1000 and 3 months delivery. I was able to fab myself & saved approximately $900. But, as I mentioned you will have enough “fun” dealing with the repair! Good luck.
I'm planning to pull 2 of mine off and talk to a local plexiglass place to get a quote on them fabricating new ones for me.
Best part about dealing with a local shop is that you may get a wider range of tints and can see them before you buy.
Glass shops may even have a meter to measure/match the tint of your originals.
I also need new deadlight lenses. While I will likely cut them myself, I will definitely use a local plastics shop. It may even be more expensive, but I would rather know 100% what they look like.(I am planning on getting darker tint)
If I bought them online, I would want to know actual light transmission levels to better judge what I am getting.
YMMV
Glass shops may even have a meter to measure/match the tint of your originals.
I also need new deadlight lenses. While I will likely cut them myself, I will definitely use a local plastics shop. It may even be more expensive, but I would rather know 100% what they look like.(I am planning on getting darker tint)
If I bought them online, I would want to know actual light transmission levels to better judge what I am getting.
YMMV
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I would love to find the idiot who put screws into the lens of our Atkins Hoyle hatch. The lens is 1/2” cast acrylic $200 raw material
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I found a place called Polymer Shapes that has a location in MD where I can buy a 4x8 sheet of Plexiglass and they can cut and route the 4 windows all for under 400. I'm pretty sure there is enough glass in a sheet to make 2 sets. I would guess it might be an extra 100 or so for labor, bringing a total for 2 sets of windows to around $500. If that is true (I will confirm all this), is there anyone in the mid Atlantic area who would want to split that for a new set of Cat 22 1986 (new design) windows?
I think CatDirect charges $600 for 1 set.
I think CatDirect charges $600 for 1 set.
My new fabricated windows should be ready in a few days. Does anyone have recommendations for removing all of the old sealant and cleaning the fiberglass forms to prepare for the new glass?
I removed 95% with a putty knife but still need to get the space 100% clean. Acetone doesn't seem very helpful.
I removed 95% with a putty knife but still need to get the space 100% clean. Acetone doesn't seem very helpful.
DeBond MF10US Marine Formula has worked well for me.
Mineral Spirits should also be in your arsenal as well as. Have fun and be prepared to be patient.
George
Mineral Spirits should also be in your arsenal as well as. Have fun and be prepared to be patient.
George
I have mineral spirits so might try that first. Just curious, if you get the debond on wood, does it dry out enough that you can reseal it? I have some teak trim that some pieces have broken off and some are still sealed hard. Would love to get the remaining pieces off to varnish and put them back on.