Is there, or would it be possible to add, a padeye on the bottom of the boom to tie the reef line to? That’s how ours was rigged with a bolt rope footed main.
The protruding end of a machine screw into the boom does have the potential to snag and chafe. That is why I recommended the pop rivet. There won't be any sharp edges protruding into the boom.You can drill tap and then screw the pad eye on to the boom. That way you limit the length of the fastener that protrudes into the boom. Limits chafing potential on lines running through the boom.
Rivets are a bit easier to get the pre-drill hole size correct as well. An 1/8" rivet needs a 1/8" nominal drill bit. Screws can vary depending on threads and manufacturer. They also aren't subject to galvanic corrosion with the mast. Lastly, it's much easier to drill out a rivet than a screwThe protruding end of a machine screw into the boom does have the potential to snag and chafe. That is why I recommended the pop rivet. There won't be any sharp edges protruding into the boom.
I think you are absolutely right. If you have a bolt rope foot, you can't do it like the original picture. If your boat is small, you can make do by just tying the reef cringle tight to the end of the boom, it's not ideal, but works well enough. You could put a padeye on your boom, but a cheek block is more versatile as your second picture shows. Unlike the picture, the cheek block should be directly below your reef cringle, not behind it.I think I’ll use a layout something like this so I can tension the reefed foot effectively. There are two options here: a) anchor the line at the boom-end using the cheek block to tighten the foot, and tie off the bitter end at the cleat, or b) anchor the line to the cleat and run the bitter end through the boom and then route toward the cockpit.
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If you are using the third reef because the wind is such that you need it - make sure that "old carabineer" is up to the strength task of keeping the sail in place. I think I'd prefer a soft shackle for that job.Although, I do agree that it would be best if the reef cringle were down at the boom and not up high since the reefing line is pulling the sail down and aft, putting strain on the slugs. This is the obstacle! I was planning to just extend the cringle to the horn with an old carabiner and call it a day, unless anyone has a better idea. I'm open to it.
I have a similar problem, the slides are in the way and I don't want to have to remove the slides every time I reef, which is often. I have a reef hook, linked below, attached to a line. The line goes through the hole where the ram's horn would be. I put the hook in the cringle and get it as close to the boom as I can.The third reef cringle will not reach the reef horn because the mainsail slugs stack up too much. I can't just slip off the sail slugs easily because it requires unscrewing a stop so the slugs don't fall out the bottom (I'm mostly solo). Plus, I wouldn't want to remove the stop because the slugs will just drop out. And there is no way to lower the stop so that the 3rd reef cringle is low enough.
Although, I do agree that it would be best if the reef cringle were down at the boom and not up high since the reefing line is pulling the sail down and aft, putting strain on the slugs. This is the obstacle! I was planning to just extend the cringle to the horn with an old carabiner and call it a day, unless anyone has a better idea. I'm open to it.