How to tie a reef line to boom with a track?

4lane

.
Sep 13, 2024
46
C&C 29 mkii Croton-on-Hudson
I need to set up some reefing lines and was going to do it like this, but my sail’s foot slides in a track on the boom. How can I set up reefing lines with a tracked boom?

IMG_5668.jpeg
 
Nov 6, 2006
10,124
Hunter 34 Mandeville Louisiana
Do it just as the drawing shows. It will not affect the outhaul. Mine is that way. If you need to remove the main often, you may want to screw on a small pad eye and tie the reef line to that. I figure that it is just as easy to untie the bowline shown as to untie from the pad..
 
Mar 6, 2008
1,385
Catalina 1999 C36 MKII #1787 Coyote Point Marina, CA.
The foot of my main has a bolt rope. I measured vertical drop from the reef cringle straight down and marked the foot of the sail. Then removed the sail and installed a cringle at the base where I marked. Then installed the main sail and put the reef line through the cringle and around the boom and tied to itself.
 
May 17, 2004
5,783
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
Is there, or would it be possible to add, a padeye on the bottom of the boom to tie the reef line to? That’s how ours was rigged with a bolt rope footed main.
 
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4lane

.
Sep 13, 2024
46
C&C 29 mkii Croton-on-Hudson
No, there isn’t anything at the bottom of the boom to tie to at the reef locations.

Is there, or would it be possible to add, a padeye on the bottom of the boom to tie the reef line to? That’s how ours was rigged with a bolt rope footed main.
 
May 27, 2004
2,059
Hunter 30_74-83 Ponce Inlet FL
44 years ago, when I bought my 79 H30C, the boat was rigged by the dealer in Florida.
The set up was similar to yours but instead: they took the bitter end of the reef line up from the port side, through the cringle, then back down the starboard side, then under the boom and back to the cringle, secured with a bowline.

It's worked that way all these years and still does. :)
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,546
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
You can drill tap and then screw the pad eye on to the boom. That way you limit the length of the fastener that protrudes into the boom. Limits chafing potential on lines running through the boom.
 
Jan 19, 2010
12,687
Hobie 16 & Rhodes 22 Skeeter Charleston
You can drill tap and then screw the pad eye on to the boom. That way you limit the length of the fastener that protrudes into the boom. Limits chafing potential on lines running through the boom.
The protruding end of a machine screw into the boom does have the potential to snag and chafe. That is why I recommended the pop rivet. There won't be any sharp edges protruding into the boom.
 
Sep 24, 2018
3,659
Catalina 30 MKIII Chicago
The protruding end of a machine screw into the boom does have the potential to snag and chafe. That is why I recommended the pop rivet. There won't be any sharp edges protruding into the boom.
Rivets are a bit easier to get the pre-drill hole size correct as well. An 1/8" rivet needs a 1/8" nominal drill bit. Screws can vary depending on threads and manufacturer. They also aren't subject to galvanic corrosion with the mast. Lastly, it's much easier to drill out a rivet than a screw
 
Jan 7, 2011
5,770
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
I added some pad eyes to my boom, and used 1/4 20 tap to thread the holes. Very easy to do, and I don’t think the machine screw head is a “snag” issue.



Greg
 

4lane

.
Sep 13, 2024
46
C&C 29 mkii Croton-on-Hudson
I think I’ll use a layout something like this so I can tension the reefed foot effectively. There are two options here: a) anchor the line at the boom-end using the cheek block to tighten the foot, and tie off the bitter end at the cleat, or b) anchor the line to the cleat and run the bitter end through the boom and then route toward the cockpit.
IMG_5669.jpeg
 
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jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,546
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
"A" works and is simple to work with.
 
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JBP-PA

.
Apr 29, 2022
657
Jeanneau Tonic 23 Erie, PA
I think I’ll use a layout something like this so I can tension the reefed foot effectively. There are two options here: a) anchor the line at the boom-end using the cheek block to tighten the foot, and tie off the bitter end at the cleat, or b) anchor the line to the cleat and run the bitter end through the boom and then route toward the cockpit.
View attachment 234193
I think you are absolutely right. If you have a bolt rope foot, you can't do it like the original picture. If your boat is small, you can make do by just tying the reef cringle tight to the end of the boom, it's not ideal, but works well enough. You could put a padeye on your boom, but a cheek block is more versatile as your second picture shows. Unlike the picture, the cheek block should be directly below your reef cringle, not behind it.
 

4lane

.
Sep 13, 2024
46
C&C 29 mkii Croton-on-Hudson
I'm excited to put this in place for the 2nd and 3rd reefs. Next obstacle is my 3rd reef's luff cringle won't reach the ram's horn. Anyone just use an old carabiner instead of line like this?
Screenshot 2025-09-05 101549.png
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,546
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
I am unclear why the third reef cringle will not reach the reef horn.

1. Put your reef in early
2. Loosen the boom end of the reefing lines.
3. Ease the main halyard.
4. Lower the sail till the cringle reaches the horn. (slip-off sail slugs if necessary).
5. Tighten up the outhaul end of the reef point.
Then get back to sailing the boat. Be careful if you are putting in a 3rd reef; conditions are getting exciting.
 

4lane

.
Sep 13, 2024
46
C&C 29 mkii Croton-on-Hudson
The third reef cringle will not reach the reef horn because the mainsail slugs stack up too much. I can't just slip off the sail slugs easily because it requires unscrewing a stop so the slugs don't fall out the bottom (I'm mostly solo). Plus, I wouldn't want to remove the stop because the slugs will just drop out. And there is no way to lower the stop so that the 3rd reef cringle is low enough.

Although, I do agree that it would be best if the reef cringle were down at the boom and not up high since the reefing line is pulling the sail down and aft, putting strain on the slugs. This is the obstacle! I was planning to just extend the cringle to the horn with an old carabiner and call it a day, unless anyone has a better idea. I'm open to it.
 
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dLj

.
Mar 23, 2017
4,560
Belliure 41 Back in the Chesapeake
Although, I do agree that it would be best if the reef cringle were down at the boom and not up high since the reefing line is pulling the sail down and aft, putting strain on the slugs. This is the obstacle! I was planning to just extend the cringle to the horn with an old carabiner and call it a day, unless anyone has a better idea. I'm open to it.
If you are using the third reef because the wind is such that you need it - make sure that "old carabineer" is up to the strength task of keeping the sail in place. I think I'd prefer a soft shackle for that job.

dj
 

JBP-PA

.
Apr 29, 2022
657
Jeanneau Tonic 23 Erie, PA
The third reef cringle will not reach the reef horn because the mainsail slugs stack up too much. I can't just slip off the sail slugs easily because it requires unscrewing a stop so the slugs don't fall out the bottom (I'm mostly solo). Plus, I wouldn't want to remove the stop because the slugs will just drop out. And there is no way to lower the stop so that the 3rd reef cringle is low enough.

Although, I do agree that it would be best if the reef cringle were down at the boom and not up high since the reefing line is pulling the sail down and aft, putting strain on the slugs. This is the obstacle! I was planning to just extend the cringle to the horn with an old carabiner and call it a day, unless anyone has a better idea. I'm open to it.
I have a similar problem, the slides are in the way and I don't want to have to remove the slides every time I reef, which is often. I have a reef hook, linked below, attached to a line. The line goes through the hole where the ram's horn would be. I put the hook in the cringle and get it as close to the boom as I can.

A more sophisticated solution is to put your lower slides on a line such that when the halyard is tight, the line is taught and holds the sail to the mast. When you reef, the line is loose the slides fall away and you can bring your cringle lower. (I can't seem to find a good photo of this.)