Bow chocks or Fairleads on H36 for guiding lines while on a mooring buoy

[PNWE36]

Hello,
When staying at Marine parks we like to hook onto a mooring buoy. On our Hunter 36 the cleats are a ways back on the bow. Currently I run a line from the starboard cleat, through the mooring buoy ring and then to the port cleat. This results in the mooring line rubbing on the hull which I do not like especially when the wind or current picks up. If I put out more slack sometimes the line goes under the bow. Looking for a better method.
Has anyone added a bow fairlead or chock either at the front of the bow or one on each side for this purpose. How did it work out?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Dirk

 

[kappykaplan]

Photos of your current set up would help us help you.

 

[SV Temenos]

I have the same problem. I would love to hear if someone has come up with a better solution.

 

[danm1]

I have a 356 (same setup) and usually just run the line from the mooring to one side. Recently bought a Kong mooring hook and don't run the line through the ring on the ball if there is no pickup. I am not a fan of a single line through the ring. Seems like an invitation to chafe. Your boat, your choice. I have in the past run a separate line through a mooring ring from each side of the bow, which has the advantage of both protection against one line chafing thru and allowing more versatile length.adjustments suited to conditions.

 

[Stu Jackson]

Yes, picture would help immensely. I have two bow rollers, one for the anchor rode and the other I use for buoys.

 

[shemandr]

To make it worse the 356 (36) sails around on its anchor a bit.
Our anchor line ran from the windless out over the bow anchor roller which stands proud of the bow by 10" or so. That kept the rode from rubbing on the hull. But it may have increased the yawing.
I'm thinking OP needs to find a way to run his mooring line over one side of the bow anchor roller, if that exists. Maybe over the roller with a turn around the windlass and then to one of the cleats.
It has been 10 years since I sold my 356, so my memory of the bow configuration has faded.

 

[jssailem]

All boats are affected by tide and wind. Tide tends to be constant and the boat will go one way or the other, based on how the rudder is positioned.

Wind is more of an issue. To help minimize “hunting” sailors try different configurations till they find one that works for them.

Options include:

• Using a single side of the bow chock and turning the rudder forcing the boat in a single direction.
• Using a small riding sail to force the boat to one side or the other.
• Using a buoy in one chock and a small anchor in the other chock to set the boat to one side of the buoy.

Chafe on a single mooring line is always a challenge. Sometimes running a second slack line can save your boat if it chafes through the primary line. Also using a thick large line can help to delay the chafe from eating through the line and sending the boat on to the rocks.

 

[PNWE36]

Photos of your current set up would help us help you.

Attached is the best picture I have right now. There are two pictures, one named 331 is our previous boat a Beneteau 331. It had a fairlead at the front of the toe rail which worked well. The one named H36 is our current boat.

 

[PNWE36]

I have a 356 (same setup) and usually just run the line from the mooring to one side. Recently bought a Kong mooring hook and don't run the line through the ring on the ball if there is no pickup. I am not a fan of a single line through the ring. Seems like an invitation to chafe. Your boat, your choice. I have in the past run a separate line through a mooring ring from each side of the bow, which has the advantage of both protection against one line chafing thru and allowing more versatile length.adjustments suited to conditions.

Protected moorage so chafing hasn't been an issue.
I like the idea of having separate lines on each side for the reasons stated.
Thank you.

 

[PNWE36]

Hello,
When staying at Marine parks we like to hook onto a mooring buoy. On our Hunter 36 the cleats are a ways back on the bow. Currently I run a line from the starboard cleat, through the mooring buoy ring and then to the port cleat. This results in the mooring line rubbing on the hull which I do not like especially when the wind or current picks up. If I put out more slack sometimes the line goes under the bow. Looking for a better method.
Has anyone added a bow fairlead or chock either at the front of the bow or one on each side for this purpose. How did it work out?
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Dirk

Adding some pictures to see if there are any further comments to my original post. On pic 1 I have marked red circles where I was thinking of putting the fairleads. I didn't capture the existing cleats in the picture so marked location in red. The cleats are visible in pic 2.

 

[kappykaplan]

While I don't have a Hunter, my bowcleats are set back from the bow (not as far as yours) and I have fairleads set back about 6 inches from the bow. I don't have the same interference issue from the pulpit as your boat.

 

[jssailem]

Here you can see the location of my bow cleats.
They appear a bit further aft than yours and I believe they are spread a couple of inches wider. Not a big deal

I left the cleat in their place and positioned my windlass behind the vent that was there.

This allows me to attach a snubber to the anchor chain and then let it out over the bow roller that I installed.

The boat will hint at anchor if I just let it go. So I set the rudder to one side and if needed set an anchor sail from the boom end. We sit at rest.