Absolutely the circuit needs a fuse at the battery connection that is appropriate for the smaller wire in the circuit.
It will be a short lived victory.
Starter switch sporadically engages starter
- Thread starter skunther
- Start date
Well dang. Any info on what size fuse for this? I see a fuse on a wire going out from the switch to some unknown destination, but nothing in line for the solenoid circuit anywhere at the start panel or solenoid. I have also traced the wires between the two and don’t see any fuse in the circuit anywhere.
10 ga wire can support 60a. Can't remember what I used, it was 20a or 30a. The switch is probably rated for 15a.
I assume the existing circuit would have already been fused, correct? I have traced the circuit thoroughly and not seen a fuse anywhere. What am I missing? Where would the existing fuse be located?
So the factory fuse on the circuit would be on the supply side to the starter switch, not on the wire from the starter button to the solenoid? To protect the circuit and devices from overload, I should install a fuse on the new wire between the positive bus and starter switch, as I’m assuming you did with your install?
There is a fuse on the power going to the instrument panel. It is a part of the wiring bundle between the solenoid and panel and is located in a plastic housing near the wiring bundle plug connector on the solenoid side. That wire carries all the current from the battery (via the solenoid post) to the panel. From the panel, there is a wire (also located in the wiring bundle) that carries the switched current back to activate the solenoid. That wire is not fused.
Always fuse at the power source. The fuse is there to prevent the wire from over heating due to a short.
Ok, easy and logical. What size fuse though? 20 amp? 30 amp? I’m not sure the gauge of the other wires wire coming off of the downstream terminal.
Last edited:
I’m curious what waterproof fuse holder would be recommended for this application? I’ve found the Blue Sea 5065, but that has 12awg pigtails, which seems to defeat the purpose of having run a higher capacity 10awg wire.
I’ve found a bunch of random options on Amazon, but don’t have faith in their build quality.
I’ve found a bunch of random options on Amazon, but don’t have faith in their build quality.
The Blue Sea one will be fine because you will be fusing it below its ampacity rating of 45a. There will be a little voltage loss because of the 12 ga wire, however because the pigtails are really short it won't amount to much. I doubt anything but a really high end multimeter could measure the difference in the resistance between 6 inches of 10 and 12 gauge wire.
Here is a link to a company that deals with Yanmar parts. You can see where the fuse is located on the loom. The fuse is 30 amps.
yanmarshop.com
Yanmar Shop - Catalogue Search Results for 46150-003680
View Catalogue results for 46150-003680 in the Yanmar Shop catalogue.
yanmarshop.com
Thank you!Here is a link to a company that deals with Yanmar parts. You can see where the fuse is located on the loom. The fuse is 30 amps.
Yanmar Shop - Catalogue Search Results for 46150-003680
View Catalogue results for 46150-003680 in the Yanmar Shop catalogue.
So if I am wiring from the keyed starter switch directly to the battery with an inline 30amp fuse, I assume I should disconnect the old wire at the solenoid and the start switch, or there will be a redundant second 30 amp fuse in the circuit, allowing a total of 60amps before one of them blows, correct? I intend to leave the wire and label it for reference. What is the best way to seal off the ends to avoid a short? Wrap in electrical tape?
Cut off both ends of the old wire and leave them disconnected. Keep it simple. Cut them back to where they exit the bundle of wires.