I have this problem every year. I always figure it out and then forget- why is the job getting stuck? This is the highest I’ve gotten it up and something is clearly wrong.
Catalina 22 jib keeps getting stuck trying to raise it
- Thread starter AlanCatalina
- Start date
Don't feed the halyard into the luff extrusion slot of the furling foil. Only the luff tape of the sail. Also, make sure there is a well tied knot at the head of the sail if you're not using a shackle. A bowline can be untied after being under tension. That will be important if you change headsails regularly. Keep the knot small so that it doesn't interfere with the upper swivel of the furling system.
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I spray dry lube on the luff as it's being pulled up in the foil.
As others have said the halyard should not be in the slot. What is concerning is how the halyard got in the slot. If the slot has become wide enough to accept the halyard, then it will likely be too wide to hold the luff tape in the slot. Also the halyard looks pretty frayed and the head has a twist in it.
It may be necessary to drop the mast to get the halyard out of the slot. while the mast is down, replacing the halyard would be a good idea.
It may be necessary to drop the mast to get the halyard out of the slot. while the mast is down, replacing the halyard would be a good idea.
@AlanCatalina Since you have a Catalina 22 I would guess you have the CDI Flexible Furler system. This may help. Check the diagrams on page 13 (11 in the manual) and see if your system is rigged the same way. Also there are many on the Catalina grou or Facebook page that could help as well. There is a huge support network for the c22.
www.manualslib.com
Hoisting The Jib - CDI FLEXIBLE FURLER 2 Installation & Operating Instructions Manual [Page 13]
CDI FLEXIBLE FURLER 2 Manual Online: Hoisting The Jib. 1. Attach the halyard to head of the jib. Pull decored end of halyard down to hoist sail. 2. Pull up the sail by pulling down on the messenger line attached to the decored end of the halyard while feeding the luff tape into the...
www.manualslib.com
Use a halyard knot. Clean and lube your track at the end of every season. Magic Erasers make quick work of it. First time you clean it will take 1-1.5 hours. I can clean my mast track in about 30 minutes now that it's relatively clean
Assuming that is a cdi flex furler - it can also be an issue with the sheave at the top. On several of the models they are simply a solid block of plastic and can get jammed up with debris. - clean/blow out all passages on the black piece at the top of the furler. Cdi also make a replacement for that style that has an actual rolling sheave in it. Replaced mine last year and it was easier to raise the Jib than it had ever been - even when new. Cleaning and lubricating the groove is relatively important but the black block (halyard top fitting in manual) on the CDI i found even more important. Again assuming it’s a cdi furler - clean both tracks as its halyard is captive in both front and rear slots.
www.sailcdi.com
Spare Parts — Cruising Design International
www.sailcdi.com
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I don't think you have the FLEX furler. Looks like two extrduded aluminum channels in the foil/luff. The halyard terminates in a "traveler" that runs in the channel opposite the luff tape - refer to attached instructions. When the sail is up, the traveler comes near the the feed point, but not far enough that it wanders out of the channel.
I am strugglin right now as to what to do about my ODAY 272 1986 setup - which is exhibiting a little HALYARD fraying. No CDI Reefer parts. available. The halyard line has parallel strand core, which I am told does not lend itself to splicing a new segment to replace the region that shows the fraying. Anyone else have a suggestion?
I am strugglin right now as to what to do about my ODAY 272 1986 setup - which is exhibiting a little HALYARD fraying. No CDI Reefer parts. available. The halyard line has parallel strand core, which I am told does not lend itself to splicing a new segment to replace the region that shows the fraying. Anyone else have a suggestion?
I had the same issue for last summer . For those not familiar with the CDI system , the halyard does ride in the groove .
There is no chance of a halyard wrap ,so common to other furling systems .
I beleive the actual problem is there is a part missing . There is a small black plastic triangular piece that rides in the groove .
My inquiries to CDI lead me to believe there was not an available replacement . I made several out of Cpvc,pvc, stainless steel and uhmw .
The easiest one to move along the slot was uhmw . The halyard attaches to one end of the triangular piece and keeps the halyard inside the groove .
The other end of the black plastic groove keeps the number 6 sail tape inside the groove .
I believe what you are experiancing is the halyard is rubbing on the groove as well as the sail tape is binding in the slot .
Let me know if you aren't able to locate a replacement block.
I just looked at the drawing for the CDI parts from an earlier post. The black plastic triangular piece I spoke of is not listed .
On my Oday 25 I use a CDI ff4 . Perhaps the piece isn't used on the smaller units . I would be tempted to use a smaller diameter higher strength halyard .
Reviewing the CDI reefer posted above , the part I'm refering to is the sail slide . This helps keep the halyard and the tape inside the groove
There is no chance of a halyard wrap ,so common to other furling systems .
I beleive the actual problem is there is a part missing . There is a small black plastic triangular piece that rides in the groove .
My inquiries to CDI lead me to believe there was not an available replacement . I made several out of Cpvc,pvc, stainless steel and uhmw .
The easiest one to move along the slot was uhmw . The halyard attaches to one end of the triangular piece and keeps the halyard inside the groove .
The other end of the black plastic groove keeps the number 6 sail tape inside the groove .
I believe what you are experiancing is the halyard is rubbing on the groove as well as the sail tape is binding in the slot .
Let me know if you aren't able to locate a replacement block.
I just looked at the drawing for the CDI parts from an earlier post. The black plastic triangular piece I spoke of is not listed .
On my Oday 25 I use a CDI ff4 . Perhaps the piece isn't used on the smaller units . I would be tempted to use a smaller diameter higher strength halyard .
Reviewing the CDI reefer posted above , the part I'm refering to is the sail slide . This helps keep the halyard and the tape inside the groove
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p.s. We never remove the furled sail at the end of the season .. This type of furler does not lend itself to a prefeeder very well . It is difficult to feed the sailtape into the groove while you are hoisting genoa . It's the nature of the beast so to speak.
I do not find feeding a problem.
The extrusions on this generation of CDI products do not join. The extrusions simply stack on one another. At the joint there are two internal aluminum links that are intended to keep the extrsions from twinsting and align the channels. IF there is ANY misalignment the traveler (black plastic piece at the terminus of halyard) can be tough pull down in its channel while the sail is being hoisted and the luff tape can also bind. I have had the aluminum lnks bend resulting in misalignment. Also had the links slide down so far that there was no engagement with the upper extrusion. Only fix is to drop the mast if this happens. After it happened to me, tip from Rudy at D & R Marine - drill hole on each side of the extrusion a couple inches below the joint and insert a rivet, so the link can't wander.
The extrusions on this generation of CDI products do not join. The extrusions simply stack on one another. At the joint there are two internal aluminum links that are intended to keep the extrsions from twinsting and align the channels. IF there is ANY misalignment the traveler (black plastic piece at the terminus of halyard) can be tough pull down in its channel while the sail is being hoisted and the luff tape can also bind. I have had the aluminum lnks bend resulting in misalignment. Also had the links slide down so far that there was no engagement with the upper extrusion. Only fix is to drop the mast if this happens. After it happened to me, tip from Rudy at D & R Marine - drill hole on each side of the extrusion a couple inches below the joint and insert a rivet, so the link can't wander.
I'm not familiar with the CDI units but my last furler had a luff tape that went into the groove as well. The first few times I found it easier with a second hand. After some practice it became less frustrating to do it by myself because the luff tape frequently jams and it's annoying going back and forth with someone asking them to constantly backup or let off the halyard
Use a drive pin rivet. These can be removed by driving the pin further in with a punch or drill bit. Once this is done you can wiggle it out with the same tool. Using a drill bit to remove a rivet will result in a larger hole in your furler extrusion. Pop rivets can only be removed with a drill bit and the pin doesn't always come out cleanly when you install it which would lead to holes in your sail. The drive pin rivets are used on Hood furlers and are by easy to install, remove and have always produced and smooth edge