Extra line from boom...what is it?

[BAD ORCA]

Took my mainsail off this weekend to do some maintenance on the boom outhaul track, replace cotter pins etc....I used the time to give everything a good look over and to try and figure out where one of my mystery lines went to.

I have three lines that go into the boom at the mast and exit at the back of the boom. One is the topping lift of course. One for the outhaul and the third just terminates at the end of the boom in a messy knot.

What would this third line have been used for? My best guess is for the first reef? There is currently no reefing set up for the mainsail. I can put two reefs in my mainsail, so if this line is #1 reef, it would be nice to order some new rope and at least get it set up to use now that we are sailing the boat again.

 

[Davidasailor26]

Took my mainsail off this weekend to do some maintenance on the boom outhaul track, replace cotter pins etc....I used the time to give everything a good look over and to try and figure out where one of my mystery lines went to.

I have three lines that go into the boom at the mast and exit at the back of the boom. One is the topping lift of course. One for the outhaul and the third just terminates at the end of the boom in a messy knot.

What would this third line have been used for? My best guess is for the first reef? There is currently no reefing set up for the mainsail. I can put two reefs in my mainsail, so if this line is #1 reef, it would be nice to order some new rope and at least get it set up to use now that we are sailing the boat again.

Yes, it’s probably the reefing line. It should go from the sheave in the back of the boom up through the reefing clew in the sail and back down to a tang on the boom. That routing provides 2:1 leverage and ensures the line pulls the new clew both down and back.

 

[jssailem]

on Reefing line. Tang or knotted around the boom (sometimes).

 

[BAD ORCA]

Ok great, i thought so. Unfortunately the sheaves look really bad condition. I think i should replace them.

 

[jssailem]

Yes. While you’re at it, that is a good idea.
It is known as boat project creep. In for a penny, in for a pound.

Once the work wears off and you sit back in the cockpit, you’ll be happy that you fixed the sheaves. Of course you’ll be the only one who will know and appreciate it.

 

[shemandr]

Are you sure the topping lift line isn't a repurposed reef line?
On my Hunter the topping lift ran the other way. That is, attached to the top/end of the boom, up to a place high on the mast, through a block and down the mast to a cleat where it is tied off. It never entered the boom. I can't imagine how a line that runs the length of the boom, exits the end of the boom and terminates on the mast would work. But I don't have a good imagination.

 

[BAD ORCA]

Yes. While you’re at it, that is a good idea.
It is known as boat project creep. In for a penny, in for a pound.

Once the work wears off and you sit back in the cockpit, you’ll be happy that you fixed the sheaves. Of course you’ll be the only one who will know and appreciate it.

Yeah right? I just wanted to go up the mast to change a couple of lights and now my sail is on the deck, half the hardware is off the boom and new hardware has been reordered, and now im scheduling a truck for Saturday so i can take the boom to the workshop and refurbish it completely. This must be some sort of sickness. For fun, Psychologist probably get together and have a few drinks while making fun of DIY boat owners.

 

[BAD ORCA]

Are you sure the topping lift line isn't a repurposed reef line?
On my Hunter the topping lift ran the other way. That is, attached to the top/end of the boom, up to a place high on the mast, through a block and down the mast to a cleat where it is tied off. It never entered the boom. I can't imagine how a line that runs the length of the boom, exits the end of the boom and terminates on the mast would work. But I don't have a good imagination.

Actually i dont know for sure. Looking at pics now to try and find out. I know the topping lift was an original part of the rigging but how it was originally rigged is a good question. I would love to have that second line for reefing There is an attachment point at the end of the boom. Right now it has a shackle attached to a length of rope through a block that runs back through the boom to the mast. I will be climbing the mast this weekend. I'm curious where the other end goes.

 

[Davidasailor26]

I can't imagine how a line that runs the length of the boom, exits the end of the boom and terminates on the mast would work.

That’s how O’Day ran them on Isomat spars. The line was terminated at the top of the mast, came down to a sheave at the aft end of the boom, and was adjusted at a cam cleat in the forward end of the boom. It worked fine; maybe just a little more friction than the setup you describe.

 

[shemandr]

Well I’ll be ...

 

[dlochner]

Psychologist probably get together and have a few drinks while making fun of DIY boat owners.

Our lips are sealed.

 

[dlochner]

Actually i dont know for sure. Looking at pics now to try and find out. I know the topping lift was an original part of the rigging but how it was originally rigged is a good question. I would love to have that second line for reefing There is an attachment point at the end of the boom. Right now it has a shackle attached to a length of rope through a block that runs back through the boom to the mast. I will be climbing the mast this weekend. I'm curious where the other end goes.

First Reef, out haul, Second Reef. Topping lift to the eye.

If you have a loose footed main, this is how you tie the reef line. From the turning block the line goes up the sail on the same side as the block, through the reef crinkle and down the sail and under the sail and over the boom, the around the bottom of the boom and back up. A bowline around the part that comes down the sail is tied so that the loop of the bowline is even with the side of the boom.

 

[BAD ORCA]

First Reef, out haul, Second Reef. Topping lift to the eye.

If you have a loose footed main, this is how you tie the reef line. From the turning block the line goes up the sail on the same side as the block, through the reef crinkle and down the sail and under the sail and over the boom, the around the bottom of the boom and back up. A bowline around the part that comes down the sail is tied so that the loop of the bowline is even with the side of the boom.

View attachment 227700

The only thing im not sure of is if the topping lift is spiced onto a piece of rope to come out the bottom of the mast somewhere. I have internal halyards and im embarrased to admit i have not sailed in so long on my boat, i cant tell you if the topping lift exits the bottom of the mast anywhere for adjustment, or if it is terminated somewhere at the top of the mast? It is a wire cable, not rope. As far as i know there is only a jib and main halyard coming out the base of the mast. I will have to double check next time im at the boat. I might have to run a new rope halyard inside the mast to change my current arrangement.

Also, the pictured reefing arrangement you just posted implies that i would need to un-cleat the two reefing lines when raising the mainsail all the way up?. That wouldnt be hard to do. There are two cam cleats for those two lines at the mast end of the boom. I would just have to get in the habit of remembering to do this if i dropped the mainsail while it was reefed.

 

[dlochner]

There are many ways to skin a cat or rig a boat. A really simple and relatively inexpensive way to rig a topping lift is to have a single line (3/16" dynema would work well) from the top of the mast to a few feet from the end of the boom. Bridge the gap between the topping lift and the boom with a small tackle to allow for adjusting the boom height and slacking the topping lift when sailing. A fiddle block with a cam cleat, a single block with a becket and some ¼" dacron line and you're all set.

I have the reefing system I referenced. When you leave the sail reefed you remember to release the line real quick the next time you raise the main.

 

[jssailem]

I would just have to get in the habit of remembering to do this if i dropped the mainsail while it was reefed.

This is a common task on all boats. To raise a mainsail easily you release all lines that hold the sail down. On a typical sloop rigged boat included are:

• Reef lines
• a Vang
• a Cunningham
• Mainsheet
• Traveler

This will allow you to raise the mainsail without any encumbrances. Once raised you begin to trim the sail with the above mentioned lines.

 

[BAD ORCA]

There are many ways to skin a cat or rig a boat. A really simple and relatively inexpensive way to rig a topping lift is to have a single line (3/16" dynema would work well) from the top of the mast to a few feet from the end of the boom. Bridge the gap between the topping lift and the boom with a small tackle to allow for adjusting the boom height and slacking the topping lift when sailing. A fiddle block with a cam cleat, a single block with a becket and some ¼" dacron line and you're all set.

I have the reefing system I referenced. When you leave the sail reefed you remember to release the line real quick the next time you raise the main.

Thanks. I will have to think about this more and try and figure out how to rig this on my boat. From the few pictures i have found on the web, it appears the setup i have now was how it was originally done. Even old pics of my boat model (other owners/boats) show a block arrangement on the end of the topping lift similar to mine. I'm pretty sure now the topping lift cable is attached and dead ends at the top of the mast. Should not be too hard to convert. I just need to learn a bit more about how the different blocks work.

 

[degas]

Are you sure the topping lift line isn't a repurposed reef line?

That's the case on my boat, where 3 lines run through the boom interior via sheaves at both ends: 1 for the outhaul, 2 for the reefing points. My topping lift attaches at a tang at the aft end of the boom, up to and into the mast, exits at the mast base to a block then aft to the cockpit.

 

[dlochner]

I just need to learn a bit more about how the different blocks work.

For this application you'll want a fiddle block, these have the 2 sheaves vertically aligned and are less prone to twisting than a double block with blocks aligned horizontally. A 3:1 purchase will probably be fine.

 

[BAD ORCA]

For this application you'll want a fiddle block, these have the 2 sheaves vertically aligned and are less prone to twisting than a double block with blocks aligned horizontally. A 3:1 purchase will probably be fine.

Garhauer has double blocks with a cam cleat. Its 4:1 but small 2" dia blocks. I'm thinking this might be an option. I dont think the cleat would be too high to release from the cockpit. I dont know if the fact it swivels would be an issue though. Im thinking the cam cleat would be at the top attached to the cable thats already in place now.

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/mast-boom-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/rope-boom-vangs/4-to-1-rope-vangs-25-uab-4-1/

 

[dlochner]

Garhauer has double blocks with a cam cleat. Its 4:1 but small 2" dia blocks. I'm thinking this might be an option. I dont think the cleat would be too high to release from the cockpit. I dont know if the fact it swivels would be an issue though. Im thinking the cam cleat would be at the top attached to the cable thats already in place now.

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/mast-boom-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/rope-boom-vangs/4-to-1-rope-vangs-25-uab-4-1/

That would work. Mount the fiddle with the cleat on the boom, it will be easy to release as gravity will work with you. Might be a bit more of a challenge to cleat the topping lift depending on the height of the boom, doable I'm pretty certain.