Trouble starting my Atomic M25 Diesel

Nov 11, 2021
41
Lancer 30-2 Marina Del Rey
My boat is a 1985 Catalina 30 with its original Atomic M25 3cyl diesel. The meter reads 1997 hours.
I bought the boat last year cheap because it had been neglected during Covid. The PO disclosed the blown head gasket. I hired a professional diesel mechanic to rebuild the top of the motor. Now it pushes the boat to six knots at full throttle with ease and I usually motor at ¾ throttle or less. The specs indicate a max rpm of 2500, but my motor’s full throttle reads 1900 on my tach. We checked connections during the rebuild and everything appeared normal. The mechanic thought it would probably pick up after being run for a while. I have run it for about 150 hours, and the motor keeps running quieter and smoother, but there is no increase in rpm's. I don’t know if the tach is accurate, but the motor seems excellent. After 100 hours, we re-torqued the head and adjusted the valve clearance to the specs in the manual. I only mention this because of the glow plug irregularities.

To start the motor--when connected to the shore power--I have to hold the glow plug switch for 30 seconds before cranking the engine. Now here is the irregularity: The motor likes to start with the glow plug switch depressed and is practically impossible to start without depressing the switch, both while it is cranking and as it starts--after the key is released. After the 30 seconds of glow plug and cranking for 2 or 3 seconds with the glow plugs on, the motor will start to sputter. Releasing the glow plug switch will cause the motor to stall, while depressing it from 5 to 25 seconds longer will start the motor. It will roar to life and there is no smoke or excess vapor, and it runs perfectly after a short warm up.

I have never had to hold a glow plug switch while cranking a diesel before this motor.

We motor out for about 25 minutes. Then after sailing for a few hours, restarting the motor is the challenge. I can't start it without engaging the glow plugs for 20-30 seconds. (Other diesels I have had would not need the glow plugs when the motor was warm) When I get lucky, I can hold the glow plug switch for about 20 seconds, and then the motor starts. Some times it will not start on the first try, and I have to use more glow plug to restart the motor.

When I am unlucky, the motor doesn’t start because the batteries have been depleted.

I have two banks of batteries with a “1-Both-2-Off” switch. Both banks have two group 27 DC batteries--four in total--all the same model. Bank 1 is two years old, and Bank 2 is newer. The onboard charger is Xantax Truecharge2 40a, which seems to be operating correctly.

When connected to shore power for the initial startup, and while motoring out, the switch is on "Both". When we start sailing, I switch to battery Bank 1. If Bank 1 fails upon restart a few hours later, I switch to Bank 2 which usually, but not always, works. There have been a couple of times when I needed a portable jump start to boost the power. The extra glow plug is depleting the power.


I do not run any electrical devices during sailing. I also have used my multimeter to check the charging while motoring, and it reads high 13’s or low 14’s. The alternator was rebuilt and seems fine. I thought four batteries was overkill, but we are cruisers and don't mind a little extra ballast.

My question is why do I have to use the glow plugs to restart, and is this normal? I am planning an overnight with no shore power and am not comfortable with the current batteries.

If I can't fix this problem, I have to improve my starting power. I was looking at AGM batteries with 950CCA. I think one for each bank should be more than enough power. My motor is only a 3cyl 21hp .

I am hoping to add a couple of solar panels to my bimini, but that is a few months away, and I have 5 weeks before the scheduled overnight.
To troubleshoot, we put a meter on each of the three glow plugs and they all read 10.5V We thought that was low and maybe there was a wiring issue, but upon consulting the Atomic manual that came with the boat, 10.5 is correct.

Each of the four batteries reads between 12.3 and 12.7 v when disconnected from the shore power. But I do not have the correct device to check the amps.

Does the 1900 instead of 2500 rpm indicate anything that would necessitate the glow plugs to restart?
Has anyone used AGM batteries for house/starting in a similar sailboat? I am pretty sure that mixing AGM and standard batteries on the same system is a bad idea, so I am open to all new batteries.
Any thoughts would be appreciated
 
Aug 11, 2011
973
O'day 30 313 Georgetown MD
I have an M20 on my 30 ft Oday. I too had an issue where I could not get my revolutions up over 2000 under load. My issue was resolved by making sure the compression lever was fully closed. Please don't ask why mine was partially open, I already feel like an idiot. But just check yours, it may help the issue.
 
May 17, 2004
5,664
Beneteau Oceanis 37 Havre de Grace
The low RPMs could mean low compression, overpropping, or incorrect tach. Can you reach 2500 in neutral? If so that would eliminate the tach as the issue. If the issue is compression that could be related to the starting issues. To further troubleshoot the tach you could get an optical tach to check the RPMs at the main pulley.

The other possibility is that the voltage is low, reducing the cranking speed. The battery voltages “between 12.3 and 12.7 v” suggest they might not be as good as new. It’s also possible that there’s a voltage drop from a poor connection somewhere between the batteries and starter. To troubleshoot that you could (carefully) check the voltage at the starter while someone presses the start button.
 

dmax

.
Jul 29, 2018
1,200
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
You definitely want to keep the glow plugs on while starting the engine - the factory wiring for Catalinas, O'Days and likely others required the glow plug button be pressed for the starter to operate to ensure this.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,037
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
You definitely want to keep the glow plugs on while starting the engine - the factory wiring for Catalinas, O'Days and likely others required the glow plug button be pressed for the starter to operate to ensure this.
This is not true for Catalinas.
Engines 101 - The BIGGEST & BEST collection of M25 Series Universal Engine Information on the Internet, plus some M35, too :) This includes a link to the Critical Upgrades topic which has more engine information please read it too.

Diesel Engine - c34.org

Your glow plugs could be defective and any one of them or all could need to be replaced.

You have two separate banks, which is a very old electrical system. You might want to read some here:
Electrical Systems 101 Electrical Systems 101
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
23,122
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
@Davidasailor26 identified some excellent advice regarding your issues.

Regarding battery types (AGM & Lead Acid) Mainesail shared these thoughts.

Reading your review of the two battery banks and your comments about the difference in voltages, I wondered are both batteries being charged during you 25 minutes of motoring? Your RPM question can be resolved at the dock. Tie the boat securely in the slip. Get a handheld tach. While not necessarily precise it will give you a good idea of the engine RPM compared to what the boat tach reports. Fire up the engine, put the boat in gear, check your ropes. Run up the engine then use the handheld to verify the tach. You will want someone at the helm just in case, as you go below to check the engine RPM’s.
IMG_1895.jpeg
 
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Likes: Timm R Oday25
Jan 7, 2011
5,567
Oday 322 East Chicago, IN
Something seems amiss if 2) group 27 batteries in a bank fails to start the engine after being sailed for a few hours.

Either the batteries are pretty well shot, or something is going on with your electrical system (including the starter circuit for the motor).

Do you have a battery monitor or a digital volt meter so you can check your battery voltage after sailing for a few hours? A clamp-on meter could give you an idea how much draw your glow plugs and starter are drawing when starting the engine.

Greg
 

dmax

.
Jul 29, 2018
1,200
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
This is not true for Catalinas.
I thought my Cat 30 was wired that way but it's been a while so maybe not, my O'Day is. This is what MaineSail says about Universal engine panels, I believe it is the default setup - either way, keep the glow plugs on while starting, starts up much quicker:

"As you can see in the diagram the key switch energizes the glow plug button first. There is then a “series jumper” that ensures the glow plug button is pressed in order to energize the start button. Personally I usually leave this series jumper in place as I have found owners will usually try to bypass the glow and not do it if they think they can get away with it. If you don’t use glow, and the motor does not start, you are that much closer to filling your cylinders with water if the seacock was open."
 
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Likes: Timm R Oday25

jviss

.
Feb 5, 2004
7,089
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
1. I would check the decompression lever as someone already suggested;
2. a glow plug solenoid really helps;
3. I suspect your batteries' capacity is compromised.

My M25 required glow to start when cold, but when warm, even after being off for a couple of hours, would fire right up without glow.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,037
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
either way, keep the glow plugs on while starting, starts up much quicker:
Actually, it doesn't. Why? Because the electrical draw of having BOTH the glow plugs AND the starter ON at the same time induces a much larger voltage drop, hence, leading to slower starting. The power to each component comes from the same source: the battery bank, via the power from the C post of the 1-2-B switch, or whatever other switch arrangement one may have, i.e., a start or reserve bank.

Look, dmax, we seem to disagree on this, and people here who don't know me may think I'm just blowin' smoke, but I put together much of the content of my earlier linked M25 engine info, so let's just let folks decide themselves by doing research that I've developed for them.
 
Feb 26, 2004
23,037
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
1. I would check the decompression lever as someone already suggested;
2. a glow plug solenoid really helps;
3. I suspect your batteries' capacity is compromised.

My M25 required glow to start when cold, but when warm, even after being off for a couple of hours, would fire right up without glow.
jviss, I agree completely.
Re: #2, to clarify, I believe you are referring to a separate glow plug solenoid for heating them up, rather than a relay that combines the start/GP functions on the OP, right?

Like this:
 
Apr 8, 2010
2,113
Ericson Yachts Olson 34 28400 Portland OR
I got very used to starting our original equipment M25XP, from when we bought out boat in '94, to when I replaced the whole drive train in 2018.
Seeing the drop in voltage when the starter was engaged, I almost never energized both the glow plugs and starter together. I also, even in winter with ambients down to 25/30 F, never glow plugged it over 15 or 17 seconds.

Our mechanic advised not to prematurely use up the glow plugs by powering them too long. And, he said that 30 seconds of use would be cause to review the engine systems.

Another issue not addressed by the thread starter is the engine starter motor. When our engine reached about 1000 hours, I took ours into an independent starter/alternator shop for a rebuild. While I had not noticed it suddenly slowing down up to that point, it was amazing to have it start "like its hair was on fire" as a friend put it, after the reinstall. :)

And, "Just more thing"....... Whether glow plugs or starter motor, it really pays to remove/clean/retorque all of the plus and minus cable connections every few seasons. Even a "little" resistance will sometimes lead an owner down other trouble shooting paths unnecessarily.

Those Kubota-based Universal diesels are super reliable, but all the peripherals and connections DO need regular attention, is the takeaway, IMHO.
 

Ward H

.
Nov 7, 2011
3,782
Catalina 30 Mk II Cedar Creek, Bayville NJ
My M25XP Universal only needs glow plugs for initial startup of the day. I have the solenoid for the glow plugs and I only need to heat them for 8 seconds. Then hit the start button. After the initial startup the engine always starts without heating the glow plugs.
When I first got the boat I read MainSail's comments and thought about how mine are wired and should I rewire per his comment. I decided he was more concerned about a boat owner taking a short cut and not using glow plugs and flooding the engine when it did not start.
I left my panel as it was.
 

dmax

.
Jul 29, 2018
1,200
Telstar 28 Buzzards Bay
When the engine is cold, I heat my glow plugs for 10 seconds (I have the relay) and hit the starter (mine are wired together) - the engine starts in less than one second, every time, even first start in the spring which is a big plus for me. I separated the buttons for a season - without running the glow plugs while starting it isn't nearly as snappy, especially when cold out. I decided to wire them back together, I have plenty of battery power and the starter barely runs with this set-up. I know I could do the same manually but it works for me. My initial point was, the engine will start quicker if you run the glow plugs while starting, especially if it's cold out. If your electrical system can't handle that, it could use some improvement. It's possible my set-up uses less power overall because the engine starts so quickly - my car doesn't start as fast.
 
Last edited:

LloydB

.
Jan 15, 2006
927
Macgregor 22 Silverton
acudavid
"I am hoping to add a couple of solar panels to my bimini, but that is a few months away, and I have 5 weeks before the scheduled overnight.
To troubleshoot, we put a meter on each of the three glow plugs and they all read 10.5V We thought that was low and maybe there was a wiring issue, but upon consulting the Atomic manual that came with the boat, 10.5 is correct.

Each of the four batteries reads between 12.3 and 12.7 v when disconnected from the shore power. But I do not have the correct device to check the amps.""

Just off hand from those readings I would guess you are heating up one of the batteries when you are heating the glow plugs. Considering your plans for solar I think you should invest in a ammeter. In these days post RadioShack you can buy one on the internet for less than the price of a happy meal.
 
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Likes: Timm R Oday25
Feb 26, 2004
23,037
Catalina 34 224 Maple Bay, BC, Canada
But I do not have the correct device to check the amps.""
Just off hand from those readings I would guess you are heating up one of the batteries when you are heating the glow plugs. Considering your plans for solar I think you should invest in a ammeter. In these days post RadioShack you can buy one on the internet for less than the price of a happy meal.
I understand the concept of wanting to buy an ammeter. If, however, it is to simply find out what the draw or load of any individual component may be, as opposed to actual electrical troubleshooting, I suggest that ALL of that information is already available and has been used by boaters for decades to generate energy budgets for their boats. Maine Sail has documented the load for small boat diesel engine starters. All the rest of the devices have been listed in the various energy budgets skippers have posted on this and other boating forums over the years. I've been boating since 1983 in my own boat(s) and have never found a need, personally or professionally, for an ammeter. Nice to have? Sure. Critical? Not if you have a DVM (even w/o an ammeter that covers the range expected on recreational boats).

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