2006 Hunter 41DS House Bank Charging off alternator

Jul 7, 2011
7
Hunter 41DS Buffalo, N.Y.
Is there an internal system in the '06 Hunter 41DS that enables house bank charging off the alternator?
It appears to me that only the start battery is charged by alternator and the house bank is only charged by shorepower/charging system.
Any insight is welcomed.
 

jssailem

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Oct 22, 2014
21,554
CAL 35 Cruiser #21 moored EVERETT WA
On a previously owned boat it is a crap shoot as to what has happened during the previous 19 years and now. We would expect that the system would follow the original plan but it must be verified. That is one of those new owner actions you need to assess. It is like checking for sail condition or oil in the engine.

The owners manual has an electrical circuit diagram to give you a place to start.

NOTE...Page 63A is the beginning of the Electrical Systems. There were several optional systems offered. Each boat was tailored to the desires of the buyer.
 

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,634
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
Is there an internal system in the '06 Hunter 41DS that enables house bank charging off the alternator?
[/QUOTE
House Battery charging is NOT normally done on Hunters.

You must add another device to charge them off the Alternator.

Jim...
 
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Sep 25, 2008
7,191
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
My guess is that era Hunter had either a battery isolator or ACR which allows charging of both banks from either the charger or alternato.

its easy enough to check either visually or by measuring battery voltage when the engine is running.
 
Dec 25, 2000
5,803
Hunter Passage 42 Shelter Bay, WA
Any insight is welcomed.
As Don mentioned in his post, use your volt meter to first, check the charging voltage coming from your alternator (at least 13.5 VDC), then check the voltage at your house bank, which should be close to the same. If your house bank shows a voltage of say 12.5 VDC during this test, then the alternator is not putting a charge voltage into your house bank. Different model boat here, but our alternator does apply a charge voltage to our house bank as well as the starter battery.

P.S. Make sure you have no shore power connected when you do this test. Otherwise, your meter will show a distorted value. IMHO, it would be unusual for Hunter to wire your boat in such a way that the alternator would only charge your starter battery. That is unless a PO made such a change.
 
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Jan 11, 2014
11,832
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
There should be a way to charge both batteries on your boat. Only a prior owner who's a fool would would have disabled charging both banks.

Back in the day, the 1-2-Both switch was a common OEM installation. If you have that kind of switch, read the article linked below to fully understand the switch, its benefits and shortcomings. If you have questions, come back and we'll try to answer them. If you dont' have a 1-2-both switch you may have to figure out the POs shenanigans with the electrical system.

 
Jun 15, 2012
706
BAVARIA C57 Greenport, NY
I owned a 2006 Hunter 41 DS. The boat is equipped from the factory with a solenoid combiner. When the ignition is turned to "on", the solenoid powers and combines the start battery with the house battery. The solenoid is a "Cole-Hershey" manufactured unit, and can be found on many older automobiles. It is located behind the battery switches. To see if it's working, have someone turn the ignition to "on", and while below near the battery switch listen for a distinct click. If it's not working, I would replace with a modern electronic combiner.
 
Jul 7, 2011
7
Hunter 41DS Buffalo, N.Y.
Did the combiner allow for charging of the house batteries from the alternator? Or just allow house power to be used to start, if necessary. Appreciate your reply!!
 
Jul 7, 2011
7
Hunter 41DS Buffalo, N.Y.
There should be a way to charge both batteries on your boat. Only a prior owner who's a fool would would have disabled charging both banks.

Back in the day, the 1-2-Both switch was a common OEM installation. If you have that kind of switch, read the article linked below to fully understand the switch, its benefits and shortcomings. If you have questions, come back and we'll try to answer them. If you dont' have a 1-2-both switch you may have to figure out the POs shenanigans with the electrical system.

No ‘both’, just 2 on/off for start and house.
 
Jan 11, 2014
11,832
Sabre 362 113 Fair Haven, NY
No ‘both’, just 2 on/off for start and house.
Then this may be the answer.

I owned a 2006 Hunter 41 DS. The boat is equipped from the factory with a solenoid combiner. When the ignition is turned to "on", the solenoid powers and combines the start battery with the house battery. The solenoid is a "Cole-Hershey" manufactured unit, and can be found on many older automobiles. It is located behind the battery switches. To see if it's working, have someone turn the ignition to "on", and while below near the battery switch listen for a distinct click. If it's not working, I would replace with a modern electronic combiner.
 
Dec 4, 2023
95
Hunter 44 Portsmouth
I owned a 2006 Hunter 41 DS. The boat is equipped from the factory with a solenoid combiner. When the ignition is turned to "on", the solenoid powers and combines the start battery with the house battery. The solenoid is a "Cole-Hershey" manufactured unit, and can be found on many older automobiles. It is located behind the battery switches. To see if it's working, have someone turn the ignition to "on", and while below near the battery switch listen for a distinct click. If it's not working, I would replace with a modern electronic combiner.
This is how my boat, a 2003 Hunter 44, is configured as well. It's honestly a pretty good, simple and reliable system (as long as your batteries are similar chemistries). When I upgraded to LiFePO4 house batteries it became somewhat problematic because the solenoid ties all of the batteries together. I ran like this for some time while I continued upgrading the system, but it's not a recommended way to go about things.

I attached a picture of the solenoid assembly. On my boat it's located directly below the battery switches. You remove a couple of panels (8 stainless philips head screws) to access it. It's handy to know where this is because it's a convenient place to tie in additional chargers (solar, wind, DC-DC charger if you convert to Lithium, etc.) and essentially serves as a main "hub" for the positive side of the DC system. You'll notice that the backboard is conveniently labeled.

START: wiring from start battery/alternator.

HOUSE BATT: wired directly to the house batteries. You'll notice that this post will always read battery voltage regardless of the position of the House battery switch.

HOUSE COM: not a website about houses, this is the post wired in after the house battery switch. It will only show battery voltage if the House battery switch is on. This is wired into the main DC distribution panel, as well as the big, grey solenoid switch at the bottom of the picture. As previously mentioned, the solenoid switch bridges the switched house battery circuit and starter battery circuit together when the ignition signals ON in the small wires attached to the top of the solenoid.

When I upgraded, I ended up disconnecting the wires leading to the solenoid switch in order to permanently disconnect the house battery bank from the starter battery bank. The alternator charges the house battery bank through a Victron DC-DC charger now. I kept the jumper wires handy and kept the fuse blocks and solenoid in place, however, so I could restore the original circuit in an emergency, since I think it's a very robust, belt and suspenders setup.
 

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Last edited:
Sep 25, 2008
7,191
Alden 50 Sarasota, Florida
Did the combiner allow for charging of the house batteries from the alternator? Or just allow house power to be used to start, if necessary. Appreciate your reply!!
A battery combiner does as its name implies - combines both sets of batteries with a charging source, whatever it is, and ‘sees” the whole set as one.
 

jviss

.
Feb 5, 2004
6,964
Tartan 3800 20 Westport, MA
As previously mentioned, the solenoid switch bridges the switched house battery circuit and starter battery circuit together when the ignition signals ON in the small wires attached to the top of the solenoid.
I read this and the previous note on this, and I find it confusing. How can the start battery be a start battery when it's always paralleled with the house when you start the engine?
 
Apr 10, 2010
68
Catalina 310 166 Dartmouth, Nova Scotia
The Blue seas ACR has a connection on the bottom called isolation. I have it connected to my designated start battery so that if I start the engine the voltage in the house bank doesn't drop and power down my electronics. At least on my boat I do not bother switching the battery switch to 1-2-both as the isolation connection makes this unnecessary. Also reduces the risk of blowing my alternator. The ACR is worth the money for the peace of mind and convenience it offers. My opinion and experience only, your boat your choice.
 
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JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,634
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
This is wired into the main DC distribution panel, as well as the big, grey solenoid switch at the bottom of the picture.
Mine is wired this way, but after talking with the Hunter Electrical leader, whose team wired most boats....

That was the ACR of those days.

The Grey solenoid failed often. That solenoid was triggered by the Engine Start Key..

Jim...
 

JamesG161

SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
Feb 14, 2014
7,634
Hunter 430 Waveland, MS
can the start battery be a start battery if it's always combined with the house when starting???
The engine starts, then when the Key is ON position, the Grey Solenoid switches to ACR mode.

Jim....
 
Aug 22, 2023
9
Mariner 32 Ketch Olympia
The Blue seas ACR has a connection on the bottom called isolation. I have it connected to my designated start battery so that if I start the engine the voltage in the house bank doesn't drop and power down my electronics. At least on my boat I do not bother switching the battery switch to 1-2-both as the isolation connection makes this unnecessary. Also reduces the risk of blowing my alternator. The ACR is worth the money for the peace of mind and convenience it offers. My opinion and experience only, your boat your choice.
Eventually, an ACR fails.
Then when you least expect it Your Start Bank is Dead.
Use the combiner switch.
Also, be sure you have the Correct Charging Profile for your Batteries Chemistry.
ie: SLA, AGM, Lithium.
A good choice here is a DC to DC Charger, w Monitor.
 
Feb 6, 1998
11,679
Canadian Sailcraft 36T Casco Bay, ME
Eventually, an ACR fails.
Then when you least expect it Your Start Bank is Dead.
Use the combiner switch.
Also, be sure you have the Correct Charging Profile for your Batteries Chemistry.
ie: SLA, AGM, Lithium.
A good choice here is a DC to DC Charger, w Monitor.
Th BSS ACR has proven to be one of the most reliable pieces of electrical equipment on boats. I Have yet to see a failed ACR that was a legit warranty.