shower drain sump pump question

[matts997]

On our new (to us) MH-31 sailboat, we’ve got a Rule 800 GPH shower drain & sump pump, which services both a free-standing shower and the vanity sink drain in the head. I’ve noticed that there's always about 2”-3" of standing water in the white plastic box that houses the pump and float switch.

Is this typical? The float switch is working but I wonder if it’s waiting too long to activate, at too high of a water level? ...and perhaps I should replace the float switch...

 

[kappykaplan]

Is this typical?

Yes. The purpose of the box is to contain the liquid so it can't get into the bilge and cause interesting odors. I have one on my boat.

 

[dlochner]

The pump is a centrifugal pump, any water left in the hose between the pump and the highest point on the hose will drain back into the sump. This is because the pump can't push air, when there is no water left in the sump the pump stops and the water left in the hose drains back into the box. Same thing happens with the bilge pump.

 

[dLj]

I was on a boat the other day that had two pumps in their bilge- one same as yours - the other one that is used to pump out that residual water, different kind of pump, but I don't know exactly what it was. But I don't see that you have enough space for that.

In short - yes it's usual to have residual water in there.

dj

 

[Hello Below]

I’ve noticed that there's always about 2”-3" of standing water in the white plastic box that houses the pump and float switch.

Is this typical?

Yes it is typical but not ideal. You will want to regularly flush the sump box to remove the digesting slurry of soap, shampoo, shaving cream, toothpaste, etc that is contained in that 2”-3” of standing water. It will be a source of vile odour if you don’t. The sump box cover is not air tight. I also add a bit of Zaal Noflex Digestor as required and it’s a good idea to clean the inside of the box itself. Again as required.

 

[JamesG161]

It will be a source of vile odour if you don’t.

Pour some Clorox or Bilge Cleaner in the shower drain.

Jim...

 

[JamesG161]

The pump is a centrifugal pump, any water left in the hose between the pump and the highest point on the hose will drain back into the sump.

Not True on the newest model of 800 GPH sump pump.

I just installed 2 new ones.

Jim...

 

[ggrizzard]

It seems to me the only difference between the OP's setup and the 98B system is a check valve in
the 98B system.
The OP might be able to re-rig his boat with a check valve in the discharge line without the cost
of a whole new system.
Am I missing something?

 

[Hello Below]

The duckbill valve is listed as a Rule 1240R. It is probably specific to the Rule 20DA pump. And it may or may not fit into the older 800 gph pump but a universal 3/4" inline check valve may fit into the output hose.

 

[NCBrew]

Pour some Clorox or Bilge Cleaner in the shower drain.

Jim...

You should not put Clorox in the pump which then goes in to the outside water, Bad for marine life.
Also do not wash your deck with Bleach!!!

 

[JamesG161]

Bad for marine life.

Not true with a cup of Clorox !

Clorox rapidly reacts to kill Bacteria etc.

Clorox stops jelly fish stings, bee stings, and many other things

Clorox does not react with things inside the Shower Box.

Chemical Engineer Jim...

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

You should not put Clorox in the pump which then goes in to the outside water, Bad for marine life. Also do not wash your deck with Bleach!!!

Never use bleach in a sump...it'll damage the rubber in the sump pump.
There are only a couple of uses for bleach on a a boat: 1. Annual recommissioning of the fresh water system (follow directions in the "sticky" post at the top of the Plumbing and Sanitation forum)...and 2. Wipe down hard surfaces in cabin to prevent or cure mold and mildew.
To clean sink drains and sumps: Raritan only markets their C.P. Cleans Potties as a bowl cleaner--and it is an excellent one. But it's a bio-active (live bacteria) product that also happens to be the best sump and drain cleaner on the planet and it's very easy to use...no manual labor required.

Sink drains: close the drain seacock and put an ounce or two of C.P. down the drain when it can stand at least overnight (the "bugs" need time to work)...fill the drain with water. In the morning open the drain seacock and run plenty of clean fresh water through it.

Sumps: fill the sump about 1/3 full with clean fresh water...add 2-3 oz of CP--again, when it can stand at least overnight. In the morning run plenty of clean water through the sump...job done.

Although C.P. needs at least 8 hours to work, it can remain in drains and sumps for weeks without harming anything, so if it's easier to clean sumps and/or drains last thing before leaving the boat for a week or longer, that's ok...the "bugs" exhaust themselves after 24 hours, but all you need to do when you return is run water through 'em to rinse 'em out.

--Peggie

 

[matts997]

Thanks everyone, very helpful. Sounds like the water I’m seeing in the sump pump box is normal and the float switch is probably fine. One less thing to worry about! Great suggestion Peggie to use Raritan CP for both drains and sump pumps.

Peggie, as long I have your ear, a related question: We have a fresh water (electric) toilet for which we use Noflex Digestor as you’ve instructed. When we empty the holding tank, I usually run fresh water through the holding tank deck fitting to flush out any remaining material. Is there something we should add to the fresh water flush in this situation? e.g., Raritan CP? Noflex directly into the tank (vs. toilet bowl)?

Thanks,
Matt

 

[JamesG161]

And it may or may not fit into the older 800 gph pump but a universal 3/4" inline check valve may fit into the output hose.

Well since I installed a new 800 GPH look what is stalled on it.

A Mini-Joker valve.

Not damaged by CLOROX either.

Jim...
.

 

[Peggie Hall HeadMistress]

Peggie, as long I have your ear, a related question: We have a fresh water (electric) toilet for which we use Noflex Digestor as you’ve instructed. When we empty the holding tank, I usually run fresh water through the holding tank deck fitting to flush out any remaining material. Is there something we should add to the fresh water flush in this situation? e.g., Raritan CP? Noflex directly into the tank (vs. toilet bowl)?

Nope...don't change a thing. However, at least 2-3 x season you should put at least 4-6" of water into the tank (I love it that you're already using the deck pumpout fitting to add water 'cuz that sends it into the tank at the bottom to stir up any sludge and hold it in suspension so it can be pumped out) to give it a more thorough rinse...and also do this after the last pumpout before any winter of other extended layup (I doubt you have to winterize in your neck of the woods). In fact it wouldn't hurt to fill the tank half full for this one, then go out and tack a lot. Adding a little detergent (Dawn is great for this) will also clean the tank walls a bit. If you do this, you should run one or two "rinse cycles" to get rid of the detergent.

--Peggie