New Campbell Sailer Prop

[SycloneDriver]

I ordered a new prop a few weeks ago from West by North. They are super responsive to email. They also knew exactly what prop I needed. I just received it today. It was supposed to arrive yesterday according to DHL, but it didn't. On a positive note the box was in great shape. I'm not very impressed with DHL though.

3 blade RH 14 x 8.5
3YM20
2008 Beneteau 31

I'll let you know how I like the new prop.

 

[jssailem]

Enjoy your new prop.

 

[Blitz]

Enjoy the new prop, I've had mine for over 12 years. I like how it performs in regards to low drag and more predictable control when docking.

let us know how it works for you.

 

[Alan Gomes]

I love mine!

 

[Jim Legere]

Yes, I had to replace mine last year - a PO didn't think zincs should be replaced every year - and the new prop came quickly (even though they had to make it to order!) and the customer service was great.

 

[SycloneDriver]

I'll be diving on the boat this weekend. I have a hookah and a good prop puller. Hopefully all goes smoothly, but it rarely does.

I was speaking with a friend of mine about swapping the props. I'm in about 40ft of murky water and if I drop any tools or hardware I'll never see it again. Obviously I'll tie a line to the big stuff, but what about the little things. My buddy suggested hanging an umbrella from the prop shaft. I think that'll work. My main concern is the shaft key. I have a spare nut, washer & anode.

 

[jssailem]

Check the shaft key on the prop. You can buy replacements or back ups before you dive. You might check into a “prop puller “.
I took my prop off while sitting in the marina yard. It required some force. You may need five weights to help keep you at a neutral buoyancy. A suction cup to help hold you in place while you exercise the force needed to get the prop off the shaft.

Good luck.

 

[SycloneDriver]

Check the shaft key on the prop. You can buy replacements or back ups before you dive. You might check into a “prop puller “.
I took my prop off while sitting in the marina yard. It required some force. You may need five weights to help keep you at a neutral buoyancy. A suction cup to help hold you in place while you exercise the force needed to get the prop off the shaft.

Good luck.

All good ideas. Thanks

I do have a new Walter #1 puller.

I use my positive buoyancy to help hold me in place against the bottom of the hull. It's worked out fine while cleaning the hull and prop, it does make cleaning the keen a real pain. I will eventually buy a dive belt and some weights.

The previous owner of my boat left me a suction cup. It's very helpful cleaning the waterline.

I was going to order a new shaft key when I ordered the prop but I forgot. There aren't many place to get one in my area. I could have one made but I don't know the dimensions. If I manage to remove the original without dropping it into the abyss I will measure it and get a spare and store it with the old prop.

 

[fstbttms]

Maybe it's too late but French boats have a particular prop attachment system that you should be aware of before attempting to pull the prop. It's not like any SAE prop you may have dealt with.

 

[SycloneDriver]

I got the prop pulled today. The hardest part was removing the collar anode, in the middle of removing it somehow I grabbed the wrong allen wrench. The prop nut was maybe a little more than finger tight. The prop came off surprisingly easy. Is that normal?

The prop nut looks terrible, worse the the photo. Somehow I forgot the new hardware. I'll have to put it together tomorrow.

How tight should the nut be?

 

[fstbttms]

How tight should the nut be?

As tight as you can make it without breaking something.

It's pretty corroded. Might be a good idea to replace it.

 

[SycloneDriver]

This looks worrisome. I cleaned up one of the blades and it appears that it has suffered from galvanic corrosion or maybe electrolysis. It looked about the same when I purchased the boat 3 years ago. Now I need to inspect all the thru hulls.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Just by fact that you are missing a couple of sections of blade while adjacent sections look smooth and solid, leads me to believe that the missing parts are due to mechanical damage caused by an impact with something solid.

 

[jssailem]

Now I need to inspect all the thru hulls.

Yes. Do you have room for a shaft zinc?

You will be amazed at the new thrust you will get from the new prop. The boat will go forward and the stern will not sag in the water.
Good luck.

 

[SycloneDriver]

Just by fact that you are missing a couple of sections of blade while adjacent sections look smooth and solid, leads me to believe that the missing parts are due to mechanical damage caused by an impact with something solid.

View attachment 218526

I do think the previous owner backed into something at his private dock.
I cleaned up one of the blades with a gasket remover pad and an air grinder. Look how pink it is. The only place that resembles bronze is near the keyway.

 

[SycloneDriver]

The nut might have been just more than finger tight. The prop came off so easily I don't think I even needed the puller.

The old prop ran smooth and pushed the boat to a peak speed of 7.2 knots GPS. The prop walk in reverse was bad.

I found the new prop nut. Hopefully I can get it installed today.

The old prop is 16" in diameter and appears to be 10" pitch. The new prop is 14 x 8.5, that's a lot smaller.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Look how pink it is. The only place that resembles bronze is near the keyway.

I saw that. I've got to wonder if the casting metal wasn't quite up to scratch when they cast that specimen.

All I can suggest is to head onwards and upwards from here. Make sure there's a zinc in there somewhere. Any chance to slip on an extra shaft anode somewhere ? I can't remember if you're required to use magnesium or aluminum but it's definitely not zinc unless you're in a salt lake. Maybe that's the cause of the previous corrosion if the wrong anode was being used. Check carefully each time the boat is out of the water to see if there's anything unusual going on with corrosion.

I'm in about 40ft of murky water and if I drop any tools or hardware I'll never see it again.

I always like a challenge but replacing the prop while in the water is way above my excitement level. I guess you can still slather the interior of the prop bore with oil before you install to make life a little easier the next time it's removed. The prop is a bugger to remove when it's installed properly.

I've heard that the Campbell prop is without peer.

 

[MikeHoncho]

With the backside of the shaft nut pink, I’d replace it. That old prop is in tough shape. It must have vibrated like crazy!

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

One further question, is the shaft SS or bronze ? If SS, this makes the correct anode material even more important.

 

[Michael Davis]

surprisingly easy. Is that normal

Not normal at all. Could be that it had been replaced before with a prop that had a standard Morse taper ( 1/96) instead of a metric one ( 1/100).. Not much of a difference but makes a world of difference to how hard it is to remove.