Removing Treadmaster decking
- Thread starter FlimFlamII
- Start date
That sounds like it would be an Enormous job.
I think I would try to soften the adhesive with heat …. maybe using a steamer or an iron (on low) and warm a section at a time and then try to peel it off. If that doesn’t work I might try a multitool with an edging blade and again try to lift it off.
I think I would try to soften the adhesive with heat …. maybe using a steamer or an iron (on low) and warm a section at a time and then try to peel it off. If that doesn’t work I might try a multitool with an edging blade and again try to lift it off.
I’ve been doing that and incredibly slow work. The Treadmaster was put down with epoxy. Was thinking that a router might actually be faster
If it is epoxy, you are screwed.
I wonder if you could use an industrial floor sander (or belt sander) and knock it down enough to put a new treadmaster over the top of the old one. I don't know what you would use to glue them together but it might be worth exploring ....
You are going to have to refinish that deck surface anyway, and this is a good time to epoxy-re-pot all the deck fittings if you have not already done so. Just use a vibration cutter and follow up with a heat gun to soften the epoxy. It's a big project, and I would advise using a Fein, rather than a cheap knockoff. Use quality blades and change them often.
Is the OEM Treadmaster cracked and starting to peel from the edges? After enough decades that's normal.
Great stuff, but it has a life limit.
Heck, you could do an LPU repaint, and then apply another Treadmaster non skid pattern.... and worry about it again in another 30 years! It's a durable and safe surface.
Good luck! You have a very fast classic (and classy) boat.
Is the OEM Treadmaster cracked and starting to peel from the edges? After enough decades that's normal.
Great stuff, but it has a life limit.
Heck, you could do an LPU repaint, and then apply another Treadmaster non skid pattern.... and worry about it again in another 30 years! It's a durable and safe surface.
Good luck! You have a very fast classic (and classy) boat.
How about a power plane! I’d think it more controllable than a router.
That sounds like a good idea. I have one and have used it on several projects. I think it would be much easier to control than a router. You can also set the depth of the cut rather shallow as you approach the end and that way, when you make a mistake, it will be a relatively small one.
This turned out great! Do you have any tips for those who are about to tackle a similar project?
Removing the old Treadmaster. With a bit of patience and warm weather the job was much easier than expected. Two tools that helped were a Dremmel multitool with a scraper blade, get two or three blades depending on the size of your project. The other tool that came in handy for my project was a Wen file sander. It was handy for the tight corners. It’s also good for prepping corners when doing gel coat repair. One issue I had was some chip out of the gel coat along the edges. It generally happened when I got a bit lazy with the scraper. The chip out was minor and the Kiwi Grip ended out covering most of it. There were a few spots where I went back with a chisel to remove some small pieces along the edge that the scraper didn’t get.
Not sure what you intend to cover the deck with but there are some excellent YouTube videos that cover in detail how to apply Kiwi Grip. The only comment I would add is the more time you take to mast the better your end product will look.
Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
Not sure what you intend to cover the deck with but there are some excellent YouTube videos that cover in detail how to apply Kiwi Grip. The only comment I would add is the more time you take to mast the better your end product will look.
Good luck and let me know if you have any questions.
I've spent much time behind multi tools and will pass along this tip.
Get two different ones and swap out their use periodically. After twenty minutes or so the tool gets hot and the hands tired. If you switch over to a different tool that you hold differently you will last longer. The tool getting a chance to cool down will last longer as well.
Motrin and beer afterwards.
Get two different ones and swap out their use periodically. After twenty minutes or so the tool gets hot and the hands tired. If you switch over to a different tool that you hold differently you will last longer. The tool getting a chance to cool down will last longer as well.
Motrin and beer afterwards.
Good tip, I used the first one for to long a stretch and the internal grease got so hot it started running out.