It's a microcontroller board that can be used as a dual display desktop computer and robot brains, smart home hub, media center, networked AI core, factory controller, and much more . . .what is a Rasberry Pi.
It's a microcontroller board that can be used as a dual display desktop computer and robot brains, smart home hub, media center, networked AI core, factory controller, and much more . . .what is a Rasberry Pi.
Like Kappy said it's an embedded computer that can have many purposes. It's basically a very small computer running Linux that you can use for anything a Linux computer would be used for, plus it has general purpose input/output pins that you can use to connect to a plethora of sensors including analog/digital converters to measure voltages, temperature sensors, pulse counters (for the tachometer), etc. They've become really hard to find at retail prices due to supply chain shortages (they claim their supply will be improving this year), but there are some alternatives with similar capabilities now too.David, can you provide more details? Not sure I fully understand exactly what is a Rasberry Pi.
I looked into doing this on my 2009 H36 and it required me to swap out the engine sensors and some other stuff I wasn't comfortable with. Essentially the 3YM30 had basic analog sensors that terminated in idiot lights at the very uninformative control panel. I have tried, and cannot figure out what bus my 2015 Yanmar 4JH5E has, and it is wired just with idiot lights - no idea if sensor data is flowing beyond what drives those. And even if it was, jacking it into my Axiom is beyond my capability. I'm resigned that to get it done will be a few boat bucks.Don’t believe you need to add engine sensors.
You just tag into the existing ones.
You can confirm this with YD
The original sensors were just pressure and temp switches - on or off- alarms went off it temp hit a certain level or oil pressure was below a certain pressure.. The RS11 requires a variable output. Can be interchanged on engine, but some have both so that the old alarms work. Still trying to get my RS11 alarms to work properly.I have been looking at Noland Engineering’s RS11 interface and it looks like a good and fair priced solution for older engines. You simply connect to your existing analog sensors “Send” wire terminal at either the sender or the gauge. The existing gauges still function. A NMEA 2000 cable connects to your chart plotter. Be aware that you need to configure the interface with a pc to set the range of each gauge. Nolands product requires you to use the software and instructions that come with it to accomplish this task. Price is about $350. Looks good to me and I think I will buy one this Spring.
the problem I’m having with my onboard pi devices is that they don’t like ungraceful shutdowns and get corrupted, loose settings etc. Mine is powered via the nmea2000 backbone using a pican-m hat, so simply shuts off when it open the instruments breaker. It gets confused after a few cycles. I need to add a large capacitor and some voltage sensing logic so it will gracefully shut down on loss of powerOr you can go the more DIY way and attach sensors to get some data directly from the engine and log it with an Arduino or Raspberry Pi. I've attached a couple temperature sensors to my thermostat housing and exhaust elbow, and tapped into the alternator tachometer wire to sense RPM's. All the data goes to a Raspberry Pi on the boat, and a Yacht Devices USB gateway puts that data on my NMEA network so I can see it on the chartplotter. Plus the Pi saves all the data and some dashboards visualize it. Here's the data from one morning of sailing and motoring for example:
View attachment 211930
Yes, abrupt power cutoffs can definitely corrupt them. I use mine for monitoring the bilge and battery voltages, so I power it with a house circuit instead of the NMEA bus. I have a 12V/5V buck converter to step the voltage down, then an Adafruit Powerboost 1000c to power the Pi. The Powerboost keeps a small LiPo battery charged, so if I accidentally turn off the house circuit the battery keeps the Pi running for a while.the problem I’m having with my onboard pi devices is that they don’t like ungraceful shutdowns and get corrupted, loose settings etc. Mine is powered via the nmea2000 backbone using a pican-m hat, so simply shuts off when it open the instruments breaker. It gets confused after a few cycles. I need to add a large capacitor and some voltage sensing logic so it will gracefully shut down on loss of power
I also use a pican-m hat, but I don't power the Pi from it. Instead, I have a second hat called a Pi Juice that has a small cell phone battery on it. With the Pi on it's own circuit, I can just flip it on and off like any other device -- once the Pi Juice detects that power has been disconnected it initiates a soft shut down. They give you all the scripts for it, so pretty easy to get setup.the problem I’m having with my onboard pi devices is that they don’t like ungraceful shutdowns and get corrupted, loose settings etc. Mine is powered via the nmea2000 backbone using a pican-m hat, so simply shuts off when it open the instruments breaker. It gets confused after a few cycles. I need to add a large capacitor and some voltage sensing logic so it will gracefully shut down on loss of power
Hunter 34 Owner Modifications and Upgrades
Hunter 34 Owner Modifications and Upgradeshunter.sailboatowners.com
I myself used this.
CX5003 Dual Channel NMEA2000 Converter / N2K Converter Up to 18Sensors 0-190ohm | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for CX5003 Dual Channel NMEA2000 Converter / N2K Converter Up to 18Sensors 0-190ohm at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
You can buy it off aliexpress for $30
That would be great. I'd love to have the STL but even better, if you built it in OpenSCAD I'd love to have the code. pm or post a link here or whatever works. thanks.I also use a pican-m hat, but I don't power the Pi from it. Instead, I have a second hat called a Pi Juice that has a small cell phone battery on it. With the Pi on it's own circuit, I can just flip it on and off like any other device -- once the Pi Juice detects that power has been disconnected it initiates a soft shut down. They give you all the scripts for it, so pretty easy to get setup.
I also 3D printed a case to accommodate the Pican-m, Pi Juice as well as a pocket for an external SSD. Happy to share that if it would be useful.
Sent you a link with my STL file. I just threw it together in TinkerCad, so not exactly professional stuff, but it works. It uses the base of this enclosure:That would be great. I'd love to have the STL but even better, if you built it in OpenSCAD I'd love to have the code. pm or post a link here or whatever works. thanks.
Do you put the pijuice above or below the piCAN? I have the piCAN with the SMPS so IDK if the piJuice could go on top.
I'm currently trying to figure out:
-Graceful shutdown of OpenCPN itself
-Automatic chart updates for OpenCPN
Gotcha. Thanks. I'm actually about 75% done with a parametric OpenSCAD design with options for mounting tabs, internal cooling fan, and so on. I think I'm going to build it as a sort of 3-layer sandwich. I'll have pi, piCAN, piJuice, and an internal 12v buck power supply.Sent you a link with my STL file. I just threw it together in TinkerCad, so not exactly professional stuff, but it works. It uses the base of this enclosure:
Raspberry Pi 4 Enclosure with 2,5" SSD/HDD Mount by helmar74
A make would be highly appreciated!UPDATE 11.11.2023: rpi3b-2.5drive_b14_notch_with_screw_holes added to mount SSD with M3 screws See also my Raspberry Pi 5 version:https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6305828UPDATE 05.11.2023: Added Case for Renkforce M.2 SATA/USB AdapterUPDATE 06.10.2020: Two Top...www.thingiverse.com
Then my cover adds room for the PiJuice and PiCan hats. I have the PiJuice in the middle and the PiCan on top. Here is a picture of it mid-installation behind my nav station.
The fan is a good idea if you're using a Pi 4. Mine will get the "overheat" icon and throttle occasionally in the warmer months.Gotcha. Thanks. I'm actually about 75% done with a parametric OpenSCAD design with options for mounting tabs, internal cooling fan, and so on. I think I'm going to build it as a sort of 3-layer sandwich. I'll have pi, piCAN, piJuice, and an internal 12v buck power supply.
Likely will attach to the back of my bulkhead mounted TV. I ran an NMEA2000 drop cable back there, have the Raymarine Seatalk converter behind the "radio" panel, and will use the factory installed but currently unused 12v line to that area to power a small breaker panel for pi, wifi, usb power panel, and a small inverter for the TV only.
Nice! I developed my own IOT framework for the ESP32 family of boards and use them for a lot of silly home automation including an 8-plant automatic watering system with a web UI, and a coffee pot and window blinds that can be controlled via Alexa using an fake "wemo" switch device written in python and mqtt. "Alexa turn coffee on" or use cron to schedule it. Works great.This year I added a ESP32 (even smaller computer, low power) to do engine monitoring and a second for Battery Monitoring.