OK,,,,, Here we go.
Ralph
We have quite a few differences ,
Examples are that part of my soft ceiling has to come down (yuk!), just to get access to the hose clamps on the deck outleats,
And you have to completely rip down cabinetry up in that area.
Both hanging Lockers require total disassembly
And you literally needed to pull both heads just so that you could get any kind of access to the very limited optional 90 degree rotating outlet fitting on the head exit.
And, if this isn’t tightened exactly evenly on all crews, you will crack the damned thing. Impossible to get replacements l.
I have a full range of endoscopic cameras, more custom tools that you can inagine, and every way, known to mankind, (.and dogs), to remotely hold tiny things in place. This is essential for installing “hidden” nuts and bolts while you're desperately trying to get hardware lining up.
I have every type of stock, and modified, right Angle miniaturized ratcheting drive, for either sockets, or screwdriver heads.
In summary, there isn’t a tool that I haven’t bought (or designed), over the years, which has some usefulness in getting very tight access components back together.,
The issue was that Hunter pre assembled hoses, etc, into the heads, macerators etc deck fitting, and then easily effected the routing, while the boat was open.
When they needed to connect the other end, they had 2 advaanges:
Everything is still loosely installed in the boat, so they can jostle around things like tanks and Mascerator pumps to effect the second end fit.. plus. The hoses are pre-cut length, based on the boat documents
There were places where hoses needed to run between 2 walls in the bilge: effectively a VERY (tight fit 2”)
Yes, I did run fish lines for these. Good luck Chuck.
Because the hidden area was < 2” in with, I needed to see what mysterious otter cables (with use of endoscope), were blocking the pathway to feed the original hose back in. For these tight are, which had 90 degrees turns just to get the cable out of these hidden passages, I needed to make a “leader tool), which looks like a bullet., It has a tapered edge, slides into the hose (with the blunt edge), hand you screw it into the tubing (wood dowel.
Then, LOTS of Teflon grease into the lead end. If there was a time in your life to be generous with “the lube”, thus is it; my friends.
It’s just deadly slow trying to pull the new hose in, as it’s a slightly larger hole with the new improved hose.
NIO WAY to rush this!!
I already went over how-to “re-install deck pump out fittings without using hose clamps using stainless wire, and a “clamptite “ tool..
NOT trivial.
If you recall, actual clamps made it close to impossible to re-install the deck fitting without significantly routing clearance holes the deck.
it’s critically important that you remove all sealant, which was mostly just junk- grade silicone that has been plastered in without regard to purpose.in any location.,
So, you’re into the home stretch with getting the deck fittings re:securetd into the deck.
Time to not get into a “trap for young players. All three Deck fittings can mount. In one of 3 orientations as the circumstance has 3 clearance holes on 120 degree pitch.
At this point, you have to look at the fitting.
it is marked which lettering which says “Waste.”
Thus must run fore & aft to match the water tank deck fulls.
At this point, you’ve already “lathered up” the deck, and the stainless cap with 3M 4000, and CC the other end of the hoes is connected back to the tank.
And,,,, there is no easy way to rotate the fitting, and keep it in place, while pushing downward to line up deck & fitting screw holes.
Ok, I’m assuming that you’re working solo on this project for the most part. Clearly, some of these procedures are remarkably easier if you can “borrow”, a set of hands from somebody temporarily.
So, as the screw holes are now covered in 4000, you really can’t see where to insert the screws, plus the hose has an imparted twist in it. It’s quite easy to start making a mess at this point. (No pun interned……coming up)
The solution is to get a sharp point awl.
Rotate the deck fitting, keeping it about 1”
Above the deck. Now, take the awl, and going through the deck fitting, start “poking at the deck, trying to find the screw hole with if covered with 4000.
Once you’ve found it, gently push down, put in the second & third screws, tighten down, remove the awl, and secure in the 3rd screw.
It is advised To replace the Mascerator impelker, or just replace entire Mascerator.,
There are valid reasons to do this,
For some incredible oversight during early production runs,, Jabsco elected to use long brass screws to hold the entire unit together.,
This started to smell, then invisibly drip, and finally explode during using the Mascerator. Not pleasant…, to say the least.
And, the bloody new SS screws are obscenely priced.,
Just get new units, and be done with it.
ive tried to give some tricks and pointers to make this incredibly shitty job, an bit less so.
If your 49 /50 is 10 years young, you going to be going down this path soon.
I suggest you use the usual tricks to confirm it’s the hose, but after 10 years, this is virtually guaranteed.
Best of luck with this project!!!!
