Hunter 260 Trailer Mods

[Philthy]

Hi Guys

I am new to the forum and so far love the insights shared.

I have recently acquired a Hunter 260, 2003. Due to the boat having antifouling on it, there seems to be excess friction when the boat comes onto the trailer. To improve the launching and retrieval process I am contemplating changing the bunks/skids on the trailer for rollers. However, I am curios to understand more about the construction and structural integrity of the boat hull so I don't impose point loads where damage might occur.

My main question is: The ballast tank in the hull would have partitions or small bulk heads. Does this also provide support for pressure points while being carried on the trailer? Are there area that I should avoid putting the rollers?

If I use a roller configuration that contact either side of the line where the bunks currently contact the boat by a few inches, am I running the risk of damaging the hull?

Any assistance with this concern world be greatly appreciated.

 

[rgranger]

Sounds like you are not getting deep enough with the trailer but..

Have you tried spraying the skid carpet with something similar to this...?

I always spray my bunks once a season or more.

Another alternative I have seen is to replace the skids with a plastic board smooth side up... like trex but upside down.

 

[rgranger]

Also, there was a guy on here a few years ago who used an electric air matress pump to push air into his ballast tank and partially blow out the ballest tank before putting it on the trailer. That would make the boat ride higher.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

To answer a a 260 on a roller trailer. Hell no!
You will indent the hull to the point you could break the tank lid, break the tank lid seal, permanently damage the hull and/or damage interior floor pan. There were two people who designed that trailer and I was one of those people. Former dealer now retired. Sending you a private message
Crazy Dave

 

[Philthy]

Thanks Rgranger. I'll give the dry lube a go.

Hi Dave. I look forward to making direct contact with you. I send my details now.

 

[Rick Webb]

Dish soap on the bunks works very well to allow the boat to slip along the bunks.

I have plastic covers on mine now and they work really well also.

The bad news on either method is it also allows the boat to slip long the bunks.
Be sure that your boat is where you want it to slip off the trailer when you release the bow strap also it's prudent to have the stern strapped down and to add a safety chain on the bow eye.

With the soap on the bunks it'll stick a bit when dry so wetting down the bunks may make it easier to launch.
The plastic covers help the wood bunks to last longer as they do not retain moisture helping the wood to rot.

 

[Philthy]

Dish soap on the bunks works very well to allow the boat to slip along the bunks.

I have plastic covers on mine now and they work really well also.

The bad news on either method is it also allows the boat to slip long the bunks.
Be sure that your boat is where you want it to slip off the trailer when you release the bow strap also it's prudent to have the stern strapped down and to add a safety chain on the bow eye.

With the soap on the bunks it'll stick a bit when dry so wetting down the bunks may make it easier to launch.
The plastic covers help the wood bunks to last longer as they do not retain moisture helping the wood to rot.

Thanks Rick. I'll definitely be trying these ideas. Just wondering what type of plastic? Is it the hard slippery stuff you see on boat trailers?

 

[Rick Webb]

Thanks Rick. I'll definitely be trying these ideas. Just wondering what type of plastic? Is it the hard slippery stuff you see on boat trailers?

Yes, I bought mine at a local place but I think West Marine carries them. They are available for both 2X4 and 2X6 lumber.