Sail flaking tips
- Thread starter T-Schwan
- Start date
The older the sail the easier it is to flake. New sails need to be trained. Lazy jacks help a lot. They keep the sail contained and not falling all over the deck. Once trained the front of the sail will tend to flake itself. Then go to the back of the sail, and start at the foot. Pull the leech aft and make sure the folds are consistent, I.e., if the front has the fold to port, make sure the fold at the aft end is to port and doesn't cross over. Secure the sail with sail ties moving forward until you reach the mast.
The sails that flake in to a nice small package lying gently on the boom are long past time to replace. When the sail stops fighting attempts to flake it, it is time to consider a new sail.
The sails that flake in to a nice small package lying gently on the boom are long past time to replace. When the sail stops fighting attempts to flake it, it is time to consider a new sail.
I wouldn't be caught dead with my main looking like that at the dock, even if I had to ask someone on the dock to help. Flaking is much easier with two, but if you are alone you have to pull pretty hard to get a sail to flake neatly. As above, a new sail is much harder to flake well, but not impossible. To me, it's the little things like that I enjoy doing well, and making my boat look shipshape.
With my previous budget sails (Rolly Tasker 5-oz main and 4-oz genoa) I stuffed them in the boot and foredeck bag. I think in the back of my mind I knew I was going to be upgrading in the next few years, so why bother flaking, I figured.
With my more expensive (and stiffer) Lite Skin sails, flaking is necessary both to protect my investment and because they will not just stuff into the boot or bag like my old sails.
The advice I got from our local rigger is to look at how the sail "wants" and let that be your guide.
For my main, I spent some time one afternoon getting it flaked just right, then used paint pens to put little marks at the luff and leach so I would know where the folds should fall (port or starboard). I also made marks on the leach where it crossed the boom so I would know the center points. When dropping the sail, I try to make sure it is folding starboard to port as marked. Saves work later. Back at the slip, I start folding at the aft end of the boom, and apply (always loosely) a sail tie a little shy of the halfway point. This keeps the sail from falling off the boom while I fold and tie the remainder. Three ties does the job.
With my more expensive (and stiffer) Lite Skin sails, flaking is necessary both to protect my investment and because they will not just stuff into the boot or bag like my old sails.
The advice I got from our local rigger is to look at how the sail "wants" and let that be your guide.
For my main, I spent some time one afternoon getting it flaked just right, then used paint pens to put little marks at the luff and leach so I would know where the folds should fall (port or starboard). I also made marks on the leach where it crossed the boom so I would know the center points. When dropping the sail, I try to make sure it is folding starboard to port as marked. Saves work later. Back at the slip, I start folding at the aft end of the boom, and apply (always loosely) a sail tie a little shy of the halfway point. This keeps the sail from falling off the boom while I fold and tie the remainder. Three ties does the job.
Until my most recent sailboat, I had hanked on head sails... and I always installed a down haul that alternated between the hanks... and when I pulled the down haul, it would flake the headsail on its own. I've never tried it but I have wondered if a down haul that alternated between the sail slugs of a main, would help it flake.
Anyone out there try this?
The Dutchman system uses monofilament lines run from the boom to the mast. The lines run through the mainsail. When the halyard is released the sail will flake itself. Some love the system, others not as much.
Dutchman Sail Flaking System & Dutchman Boom Brake - Dutchmar
At Dutchmar, we focus on innovative, practical, seaman-like solutions to sail handling including our Sail Flaking System and Boom Brake.
dutchmar.com
I had the Dutchman system for 15 years. Don't believe the boat show demo, the sail absolutely needs to be "trained". However, once trained and luffing into the wind to ruffle the sail as it comes down, it does a good job. I still needed to straighten out a couple flakes but it wasn't a fight.
I now have a Schaefer roller furling boom, which is a blessing for ease of operation and covering.
I now have a Schaefer roller furling boom, which is a blessing for ease of operation and covering.
In all my years, I've seen good flakes and bad flakes on the docks! 
I submit that flaking is not worth the time and trouble in some situations. Like mine.
I put new "budget" Rolly Tasker sails on my boat in 2020 to replace the blown-out sails that came with the boat. I never considered them to be worth pampering, so stuffed the main into the boot and the jib into the foredeck bag. I didn't pay much for or expect much from them.
Then I bought some higher end sails which require more attention, but pay that attention back in performance and longevity. I sold my old ones for about 1/3 of what I paid for them. Part of the price you pay for convenience in my case.
I put new "budget" Rolly Tasker sails on my boat in 2020 to replace the blown-out sails that came with the boat. I never considered them to be worth pampering, so stuffed the main into the boot and the jib into the foredeck bag. I didn't pay much for or expect much from them.
Then I bought some higher end sails which require more attention, but pay that attention back in performance and longevity. I sold my old ones for about 1/3 of what I paid for them. Part of the price you pay for convenience in my case.
Hmmm... no one has mentioned the best way to store the mainsail, rolling it up and storing below....
I would agree, but apparently most folks don't consider it worth the effort, myself included. Being able to hop on the boat and be out of the slip in 15 minutes is nice, and I'm not convinced that rolling vs flaking will really make a sail last that much longer. They get most of their damage through UV, flogging, and the stress of actual use.
MacGregor’s had a rolling boom. I guess it was supposed to be part of the furling system. Lol… however it did make a great way to store the sail. You could disconnect the boom at the gooseneck and the Topping lift was like a second set of hands …it would hold the back of the boom while you slid the front into the cabin …stored the entire thing in the cabin.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,327
On the original sails that came with my boat the attached foot made the task relatively easy. They were blown out but they are what I had for a couple of years and I treated them like new sails till they were replaced. Flaked on the top of the boom. Held in place by the foot track and 4 straps of varied lengths with quick clips to close them.
3 ft yellows, 5 ft Greens, 7 ft blues. Work great.
Then I got new sails. Loose foot. The equation changed. When the sail falls it goes every where. It took only one windy day when I dropped the sail to convince me I needed a better plan.
I discussed this with @Hayden Watson. He sent me a plan. I procured the materials and assembled a pretty good lazy jack rig on my boom/mast. I am going to tweak it a bit, to see if I can get the sail to raise with out the batten catching.
Good thing. The sail drops quickly and is captured on the boom. I can quickly put on the straps and be off the deck/salon roof.
Safety is a precious commodity on a sail boat.
3 ft yellows, 5 ft Greens, 7 ft blues. Work great.
Then I got new sails. Loose foot. The equation changed. When the sail falls it goes every where. It took only one windy day when I dropped the sail to convince me I needed a better plan.
I discussed this with @Hayden Watson. He sent me a plan. I procured the materials and assembled a pretty good lazy jack rig on my boom/mast. I am going to tweak it a bit, to see if I can get the sail to raise with out the batten catching.
Good thing. The sail drops quickly and is captured on the boom. I can quickly put on the straps and be off the deck/salon roof.
Safety is a precious commodity on a sail boat.
furling the main: drop the main on deck, working the leech, pull it firmly away from mast, grab an arms length and roll it into the pocket between you and the boom, grab another arms length of leach, repeat. working down the leach until the last four ish feet and you have created a pocket out of the foot of the sail. roll up the pocket tightly and lash to the top of the boom with sail ties. spread out the cover, starting at the mast and cover.
repeals rain and dirt, very neat, easy to deploy for next hoist, can be done by one on aeolus but a crew is best,
do while holding the boat into the wind, then the wind helps.
same with mizzen.
have always done this. great for high winds lashed down with the sail tucked into its own pocket.
old school, baby, very easy
not a fan of any of the above methods. the sail is not well secured when down. don't want lines aloft when sailing, worst is a big canvas pocket that covers the foot of the main when sailing.
repeals rain and dirt, very neat, easy to deploy for next hoist, can be done by one on aeolus but a crew is best,
do while holding the boat into the wind, then the wind helps.
same with mizzen.
have always done this. great for high winds lashed down with the sail tucked into its own pocket.
old school, baby, very easy
not a fan of any of the above methods. the sail is not well secured when down. don't want lines aloft when sailing, worst is a big canvas pocket that covers the foot of the main when sailing.
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Hey! I resemble that remark!In all my years, I've seen good flakes and bad flakes on the docks!
My main will look like that sometimes when we head in, but I'll always reflake it in the slip. Alternating flakes. No folds as shown.
My Dutchman helps a lot!
I also like to flake when dropping the sail with a controlled drop (Foot on the halyard). Crew at the mast controls the size of flakes and the port/starboard side. Aft crew follows -both can't lead - and pulls the flakes out. If there is no aft crew it's easy for mast crew to go aft to straighten the flakes if the mast flakes are right.
Non-furling jibs should be done so that the luff is all in the front of the body of the sail. That way the luff is ready to go up the forestay or foil without the crew having to pull the flakes forward as the sail is raised.
Non-furling jibs should be done so that the luff is all in the front of the body of the sail. That way the luff is ready to go up the forestay or foil without the crew having to pull the flakes forward as the sail is raised.
Thanks for the mention but it sounds like you are not using the EZJax's design correctly. The system is designed to hoist the sail with both sides of the Jax lowered and stowed alongside the boom which completely removes them from the equation so that there is no way that the batten can catch on them because they are parallel to and tight against the boom. It is no different than raising a sail without any type of cradle.
Attached is the version I made for the C30 group which show both the deployed and stored position. I always left mine up down all the time except when dropping the sail. Once the sail is down, I tidy the flakes, connect the sail-ties, and lower the Jax before putting on the sail cover. This way, they do not chafe on the mainsail when sailing and do not require modification to the sail cover. Like I said, they are only up from just before I pop the halyard to drop the sail until I get the sail ties fastened.
I no longer use this system on my boat because we made a Pap-Pak system. I incorporated the same mechanics in the new cover so that even though I have a sail pack, it is in the down position whenever I hoist. I have the EZJax design of lines that connect to the batten in the top of the pack which allows me to drop the leeward side before hoisting. I can also drop both sides and pull the lines forward and roll the sides up and secure them with built-in sail ties. These same sail ties can also be used to secure the mainsail to the boom with the sides dropped. This is handy for doing things like adjusting the compression in the full battens.
