Electric panel

[capseaquel]

Refrigerator does not come on. I think it is an electrical problem, as there appears be power to the switch, but compressor does not start.
it looks like panel switch panel has breakers but how do I access fuses etc to troubleshoot problem(s).

thanks for your help

 

[rgranger]

Pictures help but without that my guess at good advice would be to see if you have power at the leads to the compressor.

Do you have a multimeter? If you do have power at the compressor, then your compressor is shot and needs to be replaced. At that point you are often looking at a complete rebuild.

If you don't have power at the compressor, then you may be in luck and need to run down a fuse.

 

[Benny17441]

Those breakers in the panel are resettable fuses. There should be a main breaker and if you are going to be working on the wiring remove the shore power connector wire to avoid perhaps a well intentioned from turning the pedestal switch back on.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

as there appears be power to the switch, but compressor does not start.

If you have power to the "switch", and I have no idea what this switch is, why would you be looking at the breakers ?

Do you have a multimeter?

This is the first question to be answered. If you don't, invest in one for about $10.00.

The next question is "Do you know how to use a multimeter ?" If not, say so. We'll tell you if you're willing to learn.

What we require from you are numerous close up pictures showing different angles of the refrigeration compressor with good views of the wires leading to the compressor. If you lack the interest or ambition to do this, expect to easily pay upwards of $500.00 just to have someone show up and reset a breaker. If there's an actual problem, you will be paying a boat unit just for openers.

Ball's in your court. Your serve.

 

[dlochner]

Refrigerator does not come on. I think it is an electrical problem, as there appears be power to the switch, but compressor does not start.
it looks like panel switch panel has breakers but how do I access fuses etc to troubleshoot problem(s).

thanks for your help

Let's start with something really simple, what is the thermostat set at? Is it set low enough to start the refrigerator?

 

[capseaquel]

If you have power to the "switch", and I have no idea what this switch is, why would you be looking at the breakers ?



This is the first question to be answered. If you don't, invest in one for about $10.00.

The next question is "Do you know how to use a multimeter ?" If not, say so. We'll tell you if you're willing to learn.

What we require from you are numerous close up pictures showing different angles of the refrigeration compressor with good views of the wires leading to the compressor. If you lack the interest or ambition to do this, expect to easily pay upwards of $500.00 just to have someone show up and reset a breaker. If there's an actual problem, you will be paying a boat unit just for openers.

Ball's in your court. Your serve.

Thanks for timely advice, attached a couple of pics. Looking at these I don’t see what would be a 15 amp fuse unless it is the

salmonsa

salmon pink leads on the far lef

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Perfect. You're off to a great start.

The first wires we want to look at are :

the red one and the black one. The small B&W picture above the wires is your battery showing the red wire as positive and the black one as negative.

Now comes the multi meter. Do you have one ? You need one to tell if the red wire has power to it.

 

[capseaquel]

Thanks. I have purchased a multi meter and am learning how to use it. I’m a bit intimidated around electrics as you may guessed. Do I have to pull these wires out to check?

 

[rgranger]

I don't fully understand the lable but I am noticing the word "fuse" here... I can't quite make out the manufacturer but I'd suggest googling the name and see if you can find a description or users guide

 

[rgranger]

Thanks. I have purchased a multi meter and am learning how to use it. I’m a bit intimidated around electrics as you may guessed. Do I have to pull these wires out to check?

If you can get the tip of the multimeter probe to touch bare metal, that is good enough. Poke the probe up in the slot where @Ralph Johnstone suggested in his earlier photo crop.

 

[capseaquel]

In this photo you sent at the far left is a symbol and the letters T and C. Would this be the 15 amp fuse?
your prompt response and advice are appreciated

 

[capseaquel]

If you can get the tip of the multimeter probe to touch bare metal, that is good enough. Poke the probe up in the slot where @Ralph Johnstone suggested in his earlier photo crop.

Thanks, that’s what I thought but sought reassurance that I would electrocute myself or cause some sort of damage, sparks, fire!

 

[dlochner]

In this photo you sent at the far left is a symbol and the letters T and C. Would this be the 15 amp fuse?
your prompt response and advice are appreciated

What you are looking at is the control unit for the refrigerator. The "T-C" connections are for the thermostat, the middle connections are for the fan and pump, and the last one is the power.

Here's a link to a replacement that might help. Search for the model number, 102n3030 and the manufacturer Danfoss.

Frigoboat, replacement 4-pin Control Unit for Danfoss BD2.5 and BD3 Compressors | Ice Sea Refrigeratio

Replacement 12 volt DC electronic control module for Danfoss part numbers 102N3030, 3031, 3015, 3016, 3101, 3115 and all other control modules used with the Danfoss BD3, BD2.5 and BD2 compressors.These control modules were used on Danfoss Compressors found on Adler/Barbour, Grunert, Sea Frost...

www.icesearefrigeration.com

 

[capseaquel]

Thanks. Helpful

 

[Scott T-Bird]

Dave just identified the control unit just as I did! I'll suggest that the reference to a 15 Amp fuse is simply the instruction to use a 15 Amp fuse for safety in direct connection to a 12v battery. There isn't a fuse built into the unit, I think. Since your wiring connects the unit to your breaker panel, your 15 amp breaker serves the purpose (you are not directly connected to the battery as the wiring diagram for the unit describes with a 15 amp fuse). Your power connection is clearly the larger pair of red and black wires. It should be very simple for you to determine with a multimeter if you have power to the unit. If you disconnect the wires and touch red to black, you will get sparks and possibly burnt insulation so don't remove and touch the wires together. You can shut your breaker off and then remove the wires to avoid the fireworks. Just don't touch them together with the breaker on. If these simple procedures make you uneasy, then get expert help.

 

[jssailem]

Looking at images on line.

And a Install Manual was found on the Westfalia site... https://westfaliat4.info/DanfossCompressorFridgeModuleForRC1140FridgeWestfaliaWM.pdf

 

[jssailem]

The fuse (15Amps) should be between the power source and the control unit.

I suspect this unit has the manufacturer saying before the power source enters the control unit, to protect the control unit. This chafes on the electrical rules of AYBC. Fuses are designed for the wires not the hardware.

The attached manual has voltages of the various connections to help you identify if things are working.

 

[dlochner]

I suspect this unit has the manufacturer saying before the power source enters the control unit, to protect the control unit. This chafes on the electrical rules of AYBC. Fuses are designed for the wires not the hardware.

If there is no other fuse or breaker on the power cable, then it is not ABYC compliant. However, there is nothing in ABYC that says you can't have 2 circuit protection devices on the same circuit. I have dual protection on a number of my circuits. The fuse on the control unit is there to protect the device, not the wire. The circuit breaker at the feed is there to protect the wire.

 

[jssailem]

Belt and suspenders.
Nothing wrong with keeping the pants up.

 

[capseaquel]

Dave just identified the control unit just as I did! I'll suggest that the reference to a 15 Amp fuse is simply the instruction to use a 15 Amp fuse for safety in direct connection to a 12v battery. There isn't a fuse built into the unit, I think. Since your wiring connects the unit to your breaker panel, your 15 amp breaker serves the purpose (you are not directly connected to the battery as the wiring diagram for the unit describes with a 15 amp fuse). Your power connection is clearly the larger pair of red and black wires. It should be very simple for you to determine with a multimeter if you have power to the unit. If you disconnect the wires and touch red to black, you will get sparks and possibly burnt insulation so don't remove and touch the wires together. You can shut your breaker off and then remove the wires to avoid the fireworks. Just don't touch them together with the breaker on. If these simple procedures make you uneasy, then get expert help.

Thank you Scott. Solves what was a mystery to me.