Yeah my wires from shore power plug to main breaker are 12/3. So i should replace that wire with 10/3 and sounds like my outlet will be just fine with 12/3
Thank you for the welcome. You do not start derating wire untill you get over 100 ft. 12Gage is ratted at 25 amps. Do not exceed the limits of your plug device ( 20 amp) by using a higher capacity breaker. Safety first above all other considerations. Always consider startup draw on all your devices. That is why you use a 25 amp rated wire for a 20 amp circuit. 14 Gage wire is rated at 20 amps but can only be used for 15 amp continues draw.Yep, I did what @Hayden Watson did, upgraded the boats incoming 120vAC cable to 10GA.
And to repeat what Hayden and @Shadowwalker said, use Marine Grade Stranded & Tinned AC wire.
Also, use ring terminals or locking fork terminals for the connections to the panel and outlet.
Welcome to the forum Shadowwalker!
When you are changing out the wire from the shore plug to the breaker panel make sure that you also change the jumbers from the main breaker to the sub-panel breakers. Here is a photo of the 12ga jumpers on my 88 C30.Yeah my wires from shore power plug to main breaker are 12/3. So i should replace that wire with 10/3 and sounds like my outlet will be just fine with 12/3
You do not start derating wire untill you get over 100 ft
12Gage is ratted at 25 amps.
I find your ratings to be very interesting. Unfortunately, all I have to go by are the National Electrical Code (NEC) ratings and ABYC ratings but obviously you have something which is much more in depth. I think all of us could benefit from your resources if you could be good enough to share. Thanks.14 Gage wire is rated at 20 amps but can only be used for 15 amp continues draw.
I agree. From my non-switched fuse block, I have a lead from the hot side to a breaker switch that is for the fridge. The breaker is mounted to theAnother consideration is control of circuits. It is convenient to be able to turn devices on or off from a single location. For example, it would be convenient to be able to turn the fridge off without affecting the battery charger. This is usually accomplished with a circuit breaker panel. Suggest that you install a small, say, six circuit 120 Volt panel with separate breakers and wiring for your appliances. Portable devices, such as cell phone chargers, hair dryers and the like are best served with conveniently placed GFCI receptacles. Appliances such as the fridge or the battery charger are best served with dedicated circuits. Most boats have the 120 Volt breakers next to the 12 Volt breakers in two separate groupings.
That would be a big AC panel, even on a 40' boat, no?a small, say, six circuit 120 Volt panel
I have 3 which works for me. Charger, water heater, outlest. If you have AC that would add one. That is all that I can think of for my C30 size but bigger boats might want a couple of outlet breakers and possibly two AC's which would get to 6.That would be a big AC panel, even on a 40' boat, no?
Here, here!Done correctly, electrical systems are safe, done incorrectly they are deadly.
I have 4 on my boat…for some reason my outlet’s are split between fwd and aft outlets. According to my original oday manual, outlets were on a single breaker.I have 3 which works for me. Charger, water heater, outlest. If you have AC that would add one. That is all that I can think of for my C30 size but bigger boats might want a couple of outlet breakers and possibly two AC's which would get to 6.