Anchor Windlass input

[jmce1587]

Guys, considering adding an anchor windlass on my 84 H31. I’ve been looking at Lewmar online. Seeking guidance as to differences and selection that you would consider when adding or if replacing an existing one. Honestly I don’t know much about them other than the mechanical advantage is good to have. my back is getting to me. Currently have mantus 25# anchor with 60’ chain and 200 ft 3 strand rode. Sailing gulf coastal waters primarily. I know I’ll likely have to add a dedicated circuit (and possibly battery). what else should I take into consideration?

horizontal vs vertical?
full power vs manual? Or power/manual combo?
adder for rode type drum or will chain gypsy handle both?
add winch type drum?
remote?
other things I should have asked/known?

any/all input is appreciated

Thanks, Jerry

 

[dlochner]

Windlasses draw a lot of current and in most boats the batteries and the windlass are separated by a boat length, in you case that means over 62 feet. Voltage loss is a big issue which means using very large cables. If you install a windlass do not cheap out on the cables, it is better to put an oversized cable in place than a smaller one.

Windlasses are used while anchoring which means the motor should be running. The power for the windlass will come from both the alternator and the battery. For this reason I don't think an additional battery is necessary and it would just complicate the installation. The advantage to a dedicated battery located close to the windlass is a smaller cable can be used to charge the battery and the big cables will be shorter. And there is one more battery to maintain.

Yes, the windlass will need its own dedicated circuit. Exactly how that is wired will depend on how your boat is currently wired.

Windlass size will depend on anchor and rode weight. Follow the manufacturer's recommendation. A little oversized is better than undersized.

I think a nylon rode on a gypsy is not a great idea. It will probably work however the gypsy may be kind of rough on the rode. Others may have a different experience (I have an all chain rode.).

Remotes are handy if the anchor is self launching.

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Seeking guidance as to differences and selection that you would consider when adding or if replacing an existing one. Honestly I don’t know much about them other than the mechanical advantage is good to have. my back is getting to me

You're definitely starting out in the right direction. Many people install the windlass first and then wonder why it doesn't work.

A good start would be to send pics. from numerous angles so we can see what you're dealing with. This will dictate whether it's a hor. or a vert. windlass.

These are a few notes I cobbled together when I put my Lewmar in. I don't think it will help any because an '84 H31 bears little resemblance to a '99 H-310.

 

[jmce1587]

Ralph, thanks for the info and input. Will be back at tube boat this weekend and will take pics and attach.

 

[Captain Larry-DH]

I think a nylon rode on a gypsy is not a great idea. It will probably work however the gypsy may be kind of rough on the rode. Others may have a different experience (I have an all chain rode.).

I used a mixed rode with a windlass in my last boat for about 13 years, the only issue is to make sure your splice is gradually tapered - otherwise it can hang up a bit when transitioning from the capstan to the chain locker. The capstan has an inner groove with ridges to grip the rope and it didn’t cause excessive wear. I used a Lewmar Ocean series 1 - not in production anymore but the capstans are probably unchanged over the years and models.
Edit: I’ve seen YouTube videos about spicing and would suggest making the taper longer and more gradual by adding an extra tuck with reduced (partial) strands. e.g. (with 3-strand rope) use 2 tucks with 1 strand removed then 2 tucks with 2 strands removed.

 

[Davidasailor26]

We are happy to have a windlass, albeit on a larger boat with a 35# anchor. Some thoughts on the installation:
- Agree with dlochner that you’ll need large gauge cables, but probably not a dedicated battery. Ours (a Quick Antares 1012D rated at 1000W) is wired with 1/0 or 2/0. It pulls about 50A from our house bank; the rest comes from the alternator. If we remember to run the engine above idle the alternator can provide more.
- We have a mix of chain and nylon 3 strand. The splice probably wasn’t made with the care Captain Larry-DH recommends. I do need to help the splice into the anchor locker to keep it from bunching up.
- I do think a remote and chain counter would be nice with all-chain rode, but with chain and rope I think it’s better to be at the bow. The rope sometimes slips a little, so a chain counter wouldn’t be accurate, and it does need tending at the splice, so you couldn’t do the whole operation from the helm anyway.

 

[capta]

I highly recommend a Lofrans windlass. The original one on Skipping Stone lasted about 40 years, trouble free except for annual maintenance. I bought a bigger one and it also operates flawlessly. If you can find a used one that has been well maintained, so much the better.
If you already have chain, it is very important to make absolutely sure that the gypsy on the windlass matches your chain. Not, "It's close" or "I think so". If it doesn't, you could have to buy new chain or a new gypsy, neither of which is cheap.
I'd prefer to put in a battery forward because the size of the charging wire is much easier and cheaper to run. You would have to run a much larger cable if it was direct from your house or start bank. It is recommended that you do not operate your windlass without a charging source to whichever battery it is drawing from.

 

[jssailem]

Your query about vertical or horizontal should be dependent on the minimum vertical clearance you have on the boat in your anchor locker. The vertical windlass need at least 18” free fall to permit the rode to fall into the anchor locker without piling up. The more the better.

If you have less than the 18” you will be disappointed in the windlass performance.

 

[jssailem]

These may help

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

If you have less than the 18” you will be disappointed in the windlass performance.

I'm nor bragging about having only 4-5 in. of drop available for the last of the chain as it comes into the locker but it sure beats hauling the whole thing in by hand as I did for years after first purchasing the boat. I've got 400 ft. of rode and it fills the locker to the top. It's all about compromise.

 

[dlochner]

If you have less than the 18” you will be disappointed in the windlass performance.

There are some boats that have self-launching anchors with windlasses and a good vertical drop after the windlass. Then there are the rest of us. If the drop isn't vertical enough or deep enough it will require some human assistance. This means reaching down grabbing some rode and helping it along. Still much easier than hauling up 50 or 100 ft of 5/16" chain and a 44 lb anchor.

Since you have a rope/chain rode on a boat that was probably not designed to have a windlass, there will be some compromises. Get the drop as vertical as possible while allowing for some human assistance. I have to reach down and help the chain feed into the locker. This means grabbing the chain as it comes off the windlass, standing up and dropping it into the locker. Depending on water depth this isn't a big issue as I have to stop the retrieval to wash mud and sand off the chain and anchor.

 

[jmce1587]

Guys, great info and thanks for providing the visuals. I’ll be back at the boat this week and will take measurements. Looking like I’ll have to go horizontal because the H31 doesn’t have a big locker.

 

[Sefuller]

I installed a windlass on our boat over the last winter and having just completed a two week cruise where we anchored 11 nights, I can say it is one of the best improvements I have done. I purchased our windlass used on Ebay and replaced the seals and fluid in it. I also replaced our anchor rode with 60 feet of chain and 250 feet of rope. The Lewmar windlass handles the rope and chain very well and we had no problems deploying or retrieving the anchor. Lots of our anchoring is in water less than 10 feet deep in protected bays, so I also made a bridle for when we are only on the chain portion of the rode. Photos were pre-launch when there were still a few wiring tasks left. I plan to partition the anchor locker to separate the chain from the rope after this season.

 

[Hollyberry]

Just to avoid a bit of sticker shock on the overall project, you should be aware that the adequately sized cables may well cost as much as the windlass itself.. plus cct breaker etc..

We have a Lewmar horizontal windlass, if mounted below deck ensure that you have good clearance between roller and gypsy (ie not dragging across the deck or against the furler) Also, when checking for clearance for the locker lid, be aware that the lever that rides the rode stays up (1-2") with chain in the gypsy.

I do use a remote even though I need to be at the bow to clear the chain from under the windlass (not a great fall and chain piles up despite sloping floor)

 

[Charlie98117]

Guys, great info and thanks for providing the visuals. I’ll be back at the boat this week and will take measurements. Looking like I’ll have to go horizontal because the H31 doesn’t have a big locker.

Hi Jerry: I installed a windlass on my H34 which I believe has a similar anchor locker to the H31. They are shallow but the PO on my boat cut a hole in the bottom and revised the locker drain to be direct discharge from the cavity below. I also decided on the horizontal model to gain a few extra inches of fall. It was a big project considering the fiberglass work to modify the locker lid and getting a support plate fabricated. I put together a pdf that shows the direction I took but it is too large to download here, I found a program to convert to jpegs but it split into individual pages.

 

[jmce1587]

Hi Jerry: I installed a windlass on my H34 which I believe has a similar anchor locker to the H31. They are shallow but the PO on my boat cut a hole in the bottom and revised the locker drain to be direct discharge from the cavity below. I also decided on the horizontal model to gain a few extra inches of fall. It was a big project considering the fiberglass work to modify the locker lid and getting a support plate fabricated. I put together a pdf that shows the direction I took but it is too large to download here, I found a program to convert to jpegs but it split into individual pages.

great info. Thanks for sharing. I’ll download the images and if any problems will send u a PM. Yes we have similar anchor locker hatches and will have to do the split, glass and support work. Can you tell me what brand windlass you went with and how’s it performin? Also all chain or chain/rope combo?

 

[Charlie98117]

Windlass is a Lewmar 1000 w/ 55 ft of 5/16”chain and 250’ of 5/8” 8 plait rope and 35# mantus anchor. It has been working out great so far. 8 plait is amazing, falls like limp spaghetti.
1 tried 110’ of chain at first and didn’t like the waterline on the boot stripe.