Hello. I will soon buy a sailboat, in the 22-foot range, and will have to single-hand it often. With 20 years' experience on 8 sailboats, I'm not worried so much about the sailing part -- it's the docking. Interested in hearing proven ways of doing this, step by step, line by line. Do you keep lines on the dock? On the boat? Do you have to jump off? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
Single-handed docking
- Thread starter noanksailor
- Start date
Definitely have dedicated lines permanently tied to our dock so the boat always sits exactly where I want it.
Our transient lines at marinas ......... too far forward, too far back, just too, too far no matter how you tie it
.We have an elevated step at our dock but have to jump off at marinas. We have a high freeboard so if the dock is near sinking, it's a long way down.
Try to check for currents and definitely check the wind before docking. If it's calm all around, slow and steady as she goes. If it's windy and you suspect a strong current, step on it and don't hesitate to call for a hand docking.
Practice, practice, practice so you're ready for the difficult dockings.
Prior to arrival, drop sails, prepare all lines on cleats, lower cable rail, install fenders, lift centerboard and maybe rudder 50% if docking in shallow water. Once you have done it a few times it will become routine but preparation is key. If docking to a fixed point (not floating) consider tides against how much line you have out.
Learn to use spring lines and midship cleat. There is no reason to have to jump off boat when docking. By all means, set up pre positioned lines at your home dock.
The best thing I ever learned about this was the use of a mid-ship line so you can connect her in one place. My current boat only has cleats at the bow and stern so I use a line looped around my primary winch. Stepping off is easier mid-ship and you have control over both ends once you have her connected by this line.
As others have said-Install midship cleats just fwd of cockpit so you can reach them from cockpit.
Install permanent docklines to these cleats,coil & hang these lines where they are readily available from cockpit.
Hang 2 fenders-1ft aft & 1ft fwd of midship cleats.
Bring boat to dock next to a dock cleat or other tie point.
Step carefully ashore,bringing midship line with you,&make it fast,drawing the boat in against the 2 fenders.
You are now secured,the bow or stern cannot swing in or out.
Take your time putting out regular docklines as required. Cheers/Len
Install permanent docklines to these cleats,coil & hang these lines where they are readily available from cockpit.
Hang 2 fenders-1ft aft & 1ft fwd of midship cleats.
Bring boat to dock next to a dock cleat or other tie point.
Step carefully ashore,bringing midship line with you,&make it fast,drawing the boat in against the 2 fenders.
You are now secured,the bow or stern cannot swing in or out.
Take your time putting out regular docklines as required. Cheers/Len
I’m also in the camp of staying on the boat and leaving the dock lines at your permanent dock. It’s very easy to grab a line with a boat hook. Much easier and less risky than trying to get close enough to the dock to step off, and there’s no chance of slipping or having the boat blow back off. Just practice handling the boat in an open space beforehand, and go slow.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,219
Welcome @noanksailor to the SBO forum and sailing here in the Puget Sound/Salish Sea.
A 22 foot boat is a fine choice to own here. It is big enough to explore the bays and anchor out for overnight. It is also easy on the mooring/marina costs allowing more sailing, less funding of the marina.
Port Orchard is a great marina. I have visited often and docking there, solo sailing, has not been a problem.
As the other sailors have mentioned you need to build a plan that makes you comfortable. Some boaters leave and return to the same slip every time. This leads them to reducing their effort on return docking, by setting permanent lines on the dock.
An alternate view, is when I take my boat out, I want to visit some of the many options available in the sound. This has me docking more often at new places and needing to use a technique that accommodates just about anywhere the wind takes. me.
There is no "jumping off the boat" when you're solo sailing. One even a 22 foot boat can crush an ankle should it be between the boat and the dock trying to stop the boat from crashing...
Here are a couple of posts that can help fuel your thinking about solo docking.
General boat handling skills
Stern Bridle - Using a Midship spring line for solo docking - This link takes you to a second site to view the film. I love this technique.
A 22 foot boat is a fine choice to own here. It is big enough to explore the bays and anchor out for overnight. It is also easy on the mooring/marina costs allowing more sailing, less funding of the marina.
Port Orchard is a great marina. I have visited often and docking there, solo sailing, has not been a problem.
As the other sailors have mentioned you need to build a plan that makes you comfortable. Some boaters leave and return to the same slip every time. This leads them to reducing their effort on return docking, by setting permanent lines on the dock.
An alternate view, is when I take my boat out, I want to visit some of the many options available in the sound. This has me docking more often at new places and needing to use a technique that accommodates just about anywhere the wind takes. me.
There is no "jumping off the boat" when you're solo sailing. One even a 22 foot boat can crush an ankle should it be between the boat and the dock trying to stop the boat from crashing...
Here are a couple of posts that can help fuel your thinking about solo docking.
General boat handling skills
Sailing Season opening... Boat Handling - Are you ready?
As we splash our boat from a crane or rip the wrapping off like opening a Christmas present in June and run the trailer down the ramp, hoping not to become the star in a video montage of "Greatest Launching Mistakes", the question is are we ready to handle our boat? Boat handling is kind of...
forums.sailboatowners.com
Stern Bridle - Using a Midship spring line for solo docking - This link takes you to a second site to view the film. I love this technique.
Winter Cruising Question
BTW, there’s a new pub, the Gateway Taphouse and Grill, that opened on Peace Portal Drive there in Blaine in December. Great spot; I visited it recently on their opening weekend. Make a nice “weekend” to come to Blaine, visit the pub for lunch (winter service) and/or other nice spots, load the...
forums.sailboatowners.com
Others have said it but.....STAY ON THE BOAT. I also instruct all of my passengers and crew to never ever ever ever let your hands, feet, arms or legs get between the boat and the dock. You can always fix a ding in the boat and all you need is some bonehead to throw a wake at the wrong moment to ruin an otherwise great day.
I sail my 32-foot single-handed most of the time. I return to the same dock every day, so I can leave my dock lines all in place for when I return. But what really made the difference for me is a loop, cleated off on the dock, that goes over a cabin-top winch. I have a Shepard’s hook on the dock to store it when I leave, and to make grabbing it easier when I return.
My slip faces east / west, and my finger pier is on the north side of My boat. So a north wind is not my friend…it blows me into my slip neighbors boat. But the loop has now solved that problem….i have it on the winch, and the engine in FWD while getting ready to leave. The harder the wind blows, the more throttle it takes to keep the boat in place, but it will hold there. When I a. Ready to back out, I shift into REV, start backing out (fast) and hang my loop on the hook as I back out. I never drift to the south and into my neighbors boat.
and when I return to the dock, I grab the loop, slip it over the winch, and slow.y motor into the slip. Once the loop is tight, a little throttle holds the boat pinned to the dock while I tie it up.
I made this little video recently to try and explain how it works…
Practice is a big help…starting out on calm days, and working your way up to windy, more challenging conditions. My wife thinks I am Nuts for going out in rough conditions, but I think each one is a learning experience.
Good luck!
Greg
My slip faces east / west, and my finger pier is on the north side of My boat. So a north wind is not my friend…it blows me into my slip neighbors boat. But the loop has now solved that problem….i have it on the winch, and the engine in FWD while getting ready to leave. The harder the wind blows, the more throttle it takes to keep the boat in place, but it will hold there. When I a. Ready to back out, I shift into REV, start backing out (fast) and hang my loop on the hook as I back out. I never drift to the south and into my neighbors boat.
and when I return to the dock, I grab the loop, slip it over the winch, and slow.y motor into the slip. Once the loop is tight, a little throttle holds the boat pinned to the dock while I tie it up.
I made this little video recently to try and explain how it works…
Practice is a big help…starting out on calm days, and working your way up to windy, more challenging conditions. My wife thinks I am Nuts for going out in rough conditions, but I think each one is a learning experience.
Good luck!
Greg
Some things that have been mentioned and some which have not:
Mid-ship cleat of some sort is absolutely necessary. Jam cleat midship is even better. I throw a loop around my winch, leave a loop in the line, and bring the line back on the boat. I lasso the dock pole, an bring the line back around the winch and into a jam cleat. This allows me to pull the boat sideways into the dock, and cleat it down tight with ease. Fore and aft cleats do you no good, as if there is a crosswind, one end or other gets blown away from the dock.
Secondly, get a 85 lbs+ thrust trolling motor. If you are looking at a 22ft boat, that is all you need. Speed wise, you have much better control over docking and low speed. If you have to wait in line, it is much easier to keep your boat from drifting. You don't have to worry about it loading up at idle or not starting if you shut it off.
3rdly, set yourself up with some basic low profile lazy jacks. There are many who will claim you don't need them on a small boat, but if you are single handing, its nice to have some place to catch the sail, especially if you bring it down quick. The lazy jacks do not need to go all the way up the mast. Just make them high enough to catch the sail when you drop it, and keep your boom from dropping down into the boat.
Lastly, keep an eye out for a cheap used tiller pilot. It will give you a second hand while you attend other things. Until you find one, find something to secure your tiller so it can be held in a particular direction. I used just a normal cleat screwed to the bottom of the tiller. Ran the dock line from a rear cleat on one side, through the tiller cleat and back to the other dock cleat. That works, but an auto pilot is better.
Mid-ship cleat of some sort is absolutely necessary. Jam cleat midship is even better. I throw a loop around my winch, leave a loop in the line, and bring the line back on the boat. I lasso the dock pole, an bring the line back around the winch and into a jam cleat. This allows me to pull the boat sideways into the dock, and cleat it down tight with ease. Fore and aft cleats do you no good, as if there is a crosswind, one end or other gets blown away from the dock.
Secondly, get a 85 lbs+ thrust trolling motor. If you are looking at a 22ft boat, that is all you need. Speed wise, you have much better control over docking and low speed. If you have to wait in line, it is much easier to keep your boat from drifting. You don't have to worry about it loading up at idle or not starting if you shut it off.
3rdly, set yourself up with some basic low profile lazy jacks. There are many who will claim you don't need them on a small boat, but if you are single handing, its nice to have some place to catch the sail, especially if you bring it down quick. The lazy jacks do not need to go all the way up the mast. Just make them high enough to catch the sail when you drop it, and keep your boom from dropping down into the boat.
Lastly, keep an eye out for a cheap used tiller pilot. It will give you a second hand while you attend other things. Until you find one, find something to secure your tiller so it can be held in a particular direction. I used just a normal cleat screwed to the bottom of the tiller. Ran the dock line from a rear cleat on one side, through the tiller cleat and back to the other dock cleat. That works, but an auto pilot is better.
For your normal slip does it have a full length dock, pilings, finger pier or a combination of all three. It makes a difference on advice given. As an example. If you have pilings with a small finger pier I would not deploy fenders prior to docking, they can get hung up between your boat and piling when trying to dock.
Good luck
Steve just mentioned it but worth repeating. Fenders hanging off the side of the boat will catch on pilings and cause problems docking.
If you have a swing keel or swing centerboard leave as much of it down as the water depth will allow. The boat will pivot on it to allow you to turn the boat tighter.
Mid ship cleats are great if you have them but if you don't try using your winches for attaching a spring line as you enter your slip. @Tally Ho talks about this in post 10 above. This worked real well on my O'day 25.
I leave lines permanently attached to the dock. After picking up a spring line as I enter my slip I use forward movement and rudder position to hold the boat steady while I pick up my other dock lines.
As others have said, I explain to all to get on my boat that no one ever jumps off and no one ever steps off my boat until I tell them it is OK to do so. If I have guests who do not have the experience in assisting with docking the boat I tell them to remain seated until I tell them it is OK to stand and step off.
If you have a swing keel or swing centerboard leave as much of it down as the water depth will allow. The boat will pivot on it to allow you to turn the boat tighter.
Mid ship cleats are great if you have them but if you don't try using your winches for attaching a spring line as you enter your slip. @Tally Ho talks about this in post 10 above. This worked real well on my O'day 25.
I leave lines permanently attached to the dock. After picking up a spring line as I enter my slip I use forward movement and rudder position to hold the boat steady while I pick up my other dock lines.
As others have said, I explain to all to get on my boat that no one ever jumps off and no one ever steps off my boat until I tell them it is OK to do so. If I have guests who do not have the experience in assisting with docking the boat I tell them to remain seated until I tell them it is OK to stand and step off.
One of my favorite tricks is to run a line along the side of the boat from bow to stern cleats. It was incredibly useful for holding/moving the boat while I'm standing on the dock and also doubles as a single dock line.
It's also very useful when you have to jump off of a slowly moving boat onto the dock. It also easier to tell me people to grab the red line instead of "Stop grabbing the stanchion!!" "What's a stanchion?"
It's also very useful when you have to jump off of a slowly moving boat onto the dock. It also easier to tell me people to grab the red line instead of "Stop grabbing the stanchion!!" "What's a stanchion?"
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Oh I like that! So let me see if I have this right... you approach the dock and slip this line over the corner cleat on the dock? Then let is slide as you turn into the slip with the boat? I can see that being very helpful in making a sharp turn and keeping your boat from banging into the neighbor.
Theoretically you could toss it over a dock cleat. I've never tried tossing a line on a cleat or pylon since there's a chance that one could miss and then slam the bow into the dock
Tie the aft spring line to a cleat or piling at the end of the finger pier (forever). That should be the first line (aft spring line) that you pickup, either by hand or dock pole. Attach free end of the spring line to a midship cleat on the boat or other attachment point (winch). The aft spring line will prevent the bow from hitting the front of the dock; however, more importantly, if you turn the bow away from the dock that the spring line is attached to and power up, the boat will walk up to finger pier and remain against the finger pier until you power down and shift to neutral.
No hitting your neighbor if you share a common space, and no jumping off the boat to secure any lines. Simply pickup the remaining lines and attach them before shifting to neutral. I usually plan my return so that I am picking up the aft spring on the windward side of the dock first. After all remaining lines are attached on that side of the boat and shifting to neutral, the boat will be blown to the downwind side of the slip and I will then pickup and attach the leeward lines. You will have to adjust power according to the wind and current conditions. Key points are to attach the aft spring line, turn the bow away from the finger pier, and power up, then attach remaining lines. Easy Peazy with no drama! Should be able to see this in motion on You Tube.
I thought there was a rule to never approach the dock faster than you would want to hit it.