Catalina 275 Sailing Tips
- Thread starter Azure
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Make friends with one of the better sailors in your club and take him out to have a look at your rig. He may be able to give some tips on rigging and tuning. Racing against another C275 would be really helpful because then you could compare sail trim and match the faster boat. But you probably won't have that option. The mast rake is not really adjustable but you will want to check the tension of your stays. When I was healed initially, I had a little bit too much play. Still probably haven't figured out the correct tension, but it's better than before. That's been pretty much the only real modification I have done with my rig and I'm sure there is room for improvement.
I don't know the level of your sailing, but if you are not an old salt, you'll probably get bigger returns in refining your boat handling than in fine tuning.
I don't know the level of your sailing, but if you are not an old salt, you'll probably get bigger returns in refining your boat handling than in fine tuning.
I have been experimenting on down wind performance. The stock assym. becomes shadowed by the main on deep broad reaches. Heating the boat up and soaking does not seem to be a solution, so I have started using a whisker pole and sailing wing on wing. I used that method last week in our beer can race in 8 kts. of wind. The point of sail to keep it flying was very narrow, but it kept me competitive with the other boats.
Not wanting to purchase more sails yet, I am trying to make what I have work. The installation of out board tracks has helped with headsail trim when not hard on the wind. My self tacking jib is about six inches short of headstay after loosing the halyard mast lead. I have installed a short pennant on the tack which allows the sail to not be affected by the bow pulpit and allows the top down to lay under it when not in use. I know that a deck sweeping headsail is better, but the shape when off the wind is much better. Also, I have found that the top down assym. slows the boat down if it is left furled and hoisted, so I drop it as soon as I can.
Not wanting to purchase more sails yet, I am trying to make what I have work. The installation of out board tracks has helped with headsail trim when not hard on the wind. My self tacking jib is about six inches short of headstay after loosing the halyard mast lead. I have installed a short pennant on the tack which allows the sail to not be affected by the bow pulpit and allows the top down to lay under it when not in use. I know that a deck sweeping headsail is better, but the shape when off the wind is much better. Also, I have found that the top down assym. slows the boat down if it is left furled and hoisted, so I drop it as soon as I can.
Yes, ETNZ found that out when they left up their code zero for the short sprint from the start line to the first turning mark. In the first year, I would hoist before leaving the harbor, but I always knew this was not aerodynamic for the leading edge of the jib. Typically, I sail upwind when sailing and reach back to the harbor. Lately, I just leave the spinnaker coiled on the deck or haul the spinnaker out and connect before we get to the turnaround point. My wife made the below spinnaker bag for me this spring:
which will allow me to rig up the spinnaker and keep it bundled together until I'm ready to hoist. Should be able to see how it works in the next few weeks.
Codybear,
Another angle is to attach the bag to the mast base, with a quick release, so that the kite is ready to deploy. Here's how I did mine. (this way it can't escape while you're not looking...) It also make dropping it quite fast, the torsion rope coils nicely in the bag, the halyard clips nicely to the mast base, as does the tack line from the sprit, so it all launches from one spot.
Another angle is to attach the bag to the mast base, with a quick release, so that the kite is ready to deploy. Here's how I did mine. (this way it can't escape while you're not looking...) It also make dropping it quite fast, the torsion rope coils nicely in the bag, the halyard clips nicely to the mast base, as does the tack line from the sprit, so it all launches from one spot.
Unfortunately, that is not an option with the self-tacking jib where the track is just in front of the mast, so leading anything back to the mast is problematic. My bag will sit on the locker hatch secured to the locker hatch handle and a stanchion to port. I put it on the port side so as to not interfere with the retractable spinnaker pole on the starboard side. There really isn't a lot of options for bag location with the C275 and the self-tacker.
When I was doing my spring sail down and by chance I ended up wing to wing with the asymm. Went three to four miles, having the asymm shortly collapse four times. But with the right conditions and paying more attention than I was, you may get away without a whisker pole. I think the wing to wing gave me a reasonable downwind, but I'd have to verify this with more accurate comparisons using a GPS and a calculator.
I am considering purchasing a couple of new sails next year, a main and a asym racing spinnaker. My current and standard/stock main has all full battens. I race my boat in club races and am considering a radial cut sail with 2 full upper and 2 partial lower battens for improved ability for sail trim. Have any other owners replaced the full battened sail with a partial battened sail? If so, how do you like it? I am also considering a more performance oriented asym spinnaker, with larger area than the standard spin. I have been using the standard/stock spin for racing (without the furler) and think that I could do better with a larger sail. I would be interested to know other owners experiences.
On a slightly different topic, do any of you have a Performance Polar Chart/Table for the C275? If so, would you like to share it with the group?
On a slightly different topic, do any of you have a Performance Polar Chart/Table for the C275? If so, would you like to share it with the group?
Can't speak to the 275 yet, however I can say that I did prefer the full batten main to the partial on my Capri for cruising Feel it is safer as you have more control over the sail. That said, I also had a a North Milyar main with two full and to partial battens. The sail had a big roach that the second batten would touch the back stay with around a four inch overlap...
I found this Mylar sail performed better, speed and pointing ability, and as you point out because you had better control over the sail shape. The down side was it was really hard to optimize as the sail's sweet spot was real small, you were either on target of off...
I'd stay away from the $ of a Mylar main, as I think a Dacron one built like you said would be a great race sail
I found this Mylar sail performed better, speed and pointing ability, and as you point out because you had better control over the sail shape. The down side was it was really hard to optimize as the sail's sweet spot was real small, you were either on target of off...
I'd stay away from the $ of a Mylar main, as I think a Dacron one built like you said would be a great race sail
I picture fully battened sails being faster than partial. Certainly, something to discuss with at least one sail maker. If money is no object, how about North 3Di sails? Granted, that may be like putting lipstick on a pig.
Additionally, I was wondering if a code 0 would work on a 275. It would be nice to have a large sail for light upwinds.
Additionally, I was wondering if a code 0 would work on a 275. It would be nice to have a large sail for light upwinds.
Had a code zero off a sprint on my Capri. I think it would do quite nicely on the 275 as you could carry it up to about 50 degrees apparent. Would however be concerned about he sprint as it would really pump on the capri when the wind got over 10. I rigged a bobstay on that sprint to alleviate that concern.
As to the full batten... I had both on my boats. When I bought the Kevlar sails for the Capri the sail makers talked me out of the full batten main saying you get better shape control of the sail with out full battens, they did however say it was good for the top two battens to be full to extend the roach.
When I get a new main for this boat it will be full batten as I beleive it gives you more control over the sail when you are luffing it due to gust or high wind speeds. The full battens allow the sail to still draw while the leading edge is luffing. But dacron would be my choice given its durability and larger sweet spot vs the kevlar especially what they did to the price for the 3Di...
As to the full batten... I had both on my boats. When I bought the Kevlar sails for the Capri the sail makers talked me out of the full batten main saying you get better shape control of the sail with out full battens, they did however say it was good for the top two battens to be full to extend the roach.
When I get a new main for this boat it will be full batten as I beleive it gives you more control over the sail when you are luffing it due to gust or high wind speeds. The full battens allow the sail to still draw while the leading edge is luffing. But dacron would be my choice given its durability and larger sweet spot vs the kevlar especially what they did to the price for the 3Di...
I have a 3Di NorDac jib (106%) on my boat. It is a great upwind sail, love it. However I'm not so sure I would purchase a 3Di main. The material is very stiff and would likely be difficult to flake. I'll purchase a new main next year and need to decide, full battens or not. The C275 gets a lot of it's upwind power from the main and I want to make sure I get it right. I am leaning towards the top two battens full and the others partial, for better ability to determine optimum sail angle. I'm not too concerned flogging the main, with good control of the traveler to reduce pressure on the main. I am considering a windward sheeting block on the main, for easier/faster traveler control.
For those racing, PHRF areas generally don't allow you to use a pole for a spinnaker when you have a sprit. Wing and wing with the poleless A sail works for short distances especially going into a mark. All sprit boats have trouble sailing to their ratings in 8-15 knots on windward/leeward courses. The newer design downwind spinnakers like an A1.5 will allow you sail deeper in the 8-15 range as they can project quite a bit to weather of the headstay. If I had a 275 my race set up would be- 2+2 laminate main with 3-6 sec penalty roach. Laminate 106% headsail, no rf, max hoist. 2 Asymmetrical spinnakers. A .6 oz A1.5 and 75% mid girth Code 0. A folding prop is a must. These observations were made over 2 years of racing in a competitive fleet as the only sprit boat. If the race had a reaching leg we did very well. If it was a w/l in 10 knots of wind we struggled on the downwind legs. The oversize roach main is generally worth the penalty as the 275 is underpowered. The decksweeper jib also helps you power up. I don't think a 155% would be worth since you can't point with it and the Code 0 should take care of the light air reaching. The bad news is that it will cost you $6-10,000 for a sail inventory like that. The pic in my Avatar we are reaching in 14knots true wind doing 10 knots with A3 reaching kite. Great fun and in control.Boat is a J/92. Other pic is A1.5 in 8 knots true wind
at 150 apparent.
Hi - I am new to the forum and also new to Catalina 275 (bought it end of last season). I am looking to improve downwind performance and am considering adding a code zero but Selden tells me that they do not recommend flying it off their retractable bowsprit. Does anyone have experience with using a code zero on a Catalina 275, and if yes, how did you mount the sail?
If you plan on a zero over 10 to 12 kts you may want to add a bob stay to the Sprint
More spinnaker questions. My 275 (Minx Hull 33, which I purchssed last year) came with the factory spinaker which I assume is the Doyle All Purpose Cruiser. I've sailed it so far only in light winds. What is your experience with it. What is the max wind you would fly it in? Also it came with the top down furler. For jibing I have typically furled it most of the way before the jibe then brought it out on the other side (an inside jibe). What have you found to be the most efficient jibe technique
I sail regularly with the factory spinnaker, but I don't use the furler. With a bit of practice, the sail is not difficult to gibe or douse with three people aboard. I hesitate to fly the spin in over 12 knots true wind speed.
Thanks. I was thinking 10 to 12 ought to be the limit with that sail, given the boat is designed to reef somewhere around 15. Open to hearing other folks experience, particularly with a following wind