Thought this might be useful. Barefoot is having electrical issues, so I took DC current draw measurements from ZoeVie (108) and Barefoot (151).
310 DC Current Draw Chart
- Thread starter Fleet
- Start date
Interesting that you draw 1.7 amps when all of the lights are off….and a lot more than the comp vessel with all lights on (could be different light bulbs?).
what happens if all circuits are off? Do you have the same 1.7 amp parasitic draw?
The water pump delta is pretty big too…did one of you replace your pump (newer or bigger or ??).
What sort of “issues” are you trying to clear up?
Greg
what happens if all circuits are off? Do you have the same 1.7 amp parasitic draw?
The water pump delta is pretty big too…did one of you replace your pump (newer or bigger or ??).
What sort of “issues” are you trying to clear up?
Greg
Thought I was somewhat experienced with electrical issues, but could you explain what a ZoeVie (108) and a Barefoot (151) are ? That's a new one on me 
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I'm only guessing but I think these are two different boats. With 2.3 and 5.2 amps there must be some light on somewhere.
ZoeVie, hull 108, is my Catalina 310. Barefoot, hull 151, is another Catalina 310 belonging to another member of our Marina. 1.7 current draw is with the circuit breaker on but all lights off. So, yes, there is some unknown device drawing on that circuit. The water pump on ZoeVie is brand new.
I have haul #44 and most of the breakers are for 2-3 outputs. So that could be the reason why the 1.7 amp diff. Also the water pump on mine is also the shower pump.
Now I see the light
! And yes, they are the same year but two quite different boats.You've obviously put a lot of work into this project but unfortunately, there's not much to be learned from it. It's like comparing apples and oranges. Since 2001, both boats have likely seen many electrical changes, repairs and upgrades. Hell, two 310's made in the same year can have many differences due to numerous issues at the factory. A production boat is not a production automobile.
- your water pump is an upgrade as you mentioned.
- refrigeration was an after market addition back then so they're very likely different brands and specs.
- your cabin lighting load is different as you may have a few LED's in yours. Or Barefoot's cabin circuitry could be a complete cluster _ _ _ _.
- the only things you can compare on both boats are electrical devices with the same brand name and specs.
Your friend with Barefoot will have a little detective work ahead of him finding the parasitic load on the lighting circuit. Somewhere, way back when in the cabin light wiring, some idiot branched off a lighting circuit (it was nearby) to the unknown device. Highly unlikely he went back to the circuit breaker for the installation. Pulling 1.7A, it should be a noticeable device, doing something to draw attention.
What are the issues ?
Did you check the state of the batteries? Old, under watered, or under charged batteries would drain batteries when starting the engine.
So many questions, so little time !
It's test time .......................
1. Record how many batteries are used to start the engine. Ideally only the one battery should be used, the dedicated starter battery. Be sure to remove the battery charger before this test.
2. Record the battery voltage just BEFORE attempting to start the engine.
3. Record the cranking time to start the engine.
4. Record the starter battery voltage IMMEDIATELY after starting the engine.
Submit these numbers and we should be half way there to solving the problem.
!It's test time .......................
1. Record how many batteries are used to start the engine. Ideally only the one battery should be used, the dedicated starter battery. Be sure to remove the battery charger before this test.
2. Record the battery voltage just BEFORE attempting to start the engine.
3. Record the cranking time to start the engine.
4. Record the starter battery voltage IMMEDIATELY after starting the engine.
Submit these numbers and we should be half way there to solving the problem.
5. record the lowest voltage of the start battery while the engine is being cranked. Best if you prevent the engine from starting and crank it for a few or several (maybe 10-15)seconds and see what the voltage drop is. This puts a good load test on. If you do this make sure you don't overfill raw water in your exhaust and back up water into your engine.So many questions, so little time
It's test time .......................
1. Record how many batteries are used to start the engine. Ideally only the one battery should be used, the dedicated starter battery. Be sure to remove the battery charger before this test.
2. Record the battery voltage just BEFORE attempting to start the engine.
3. Record the cranking time to start the engine.
4. Record the starter battery voltage IMMEDIATELY after starting the engine.
Submit these numbers and we should be half way there to solving the problem.
Here's a bit on this from BoatUS
Battery load test. Although not a perfect test, you can perform a load test on your batteries by measuring voltage at the terminals while running a heavy load like an anchor windlass or starter motor (without starting the engine). Normal shop procedures for load testing dictate a load equivalent to 50% of the cold cranking amperage rating for the battery being tested. That requires a load of greater than 300 amps for even the smallest of marine batteries. You need to isolate the battery being tested from any others in the system to ensure that the data you gather is specific to the battery you are testing. So you may need to disconnect any cables connecting to paralleled batteries in a bank. Obviously, you'll need to have the battery being tested connected to the boat's DC loads.
The other challenge here is that if you are going to use the engine starter motor as the load, you will need to figure out how to ensure the engine won't start while you are performing the test. If you are using loads like an anchor windlass or electric winch, you're all set. With gasoline-fueled engines, you should be able to disable the ignition system by unplugging a gang plug that supplies power to the system. For diesels, you'll need to find out how to shut down the fuel injection system while you perform the test. I recommend consulting the engine manufacturer for advice on how to accomplish this before you attempt it on your own. There are just too many variables here to generalize.
In any event, by running the windlass, electric winch, or starter motor for 10 to 15 seconds while watching your multimeter set on the DC volts scale, you want to see no less than 11.1 volts as a reading. Less than that indicates that the battery you are testing is losing capacity and getting ready to let you down. Of course, the battery should be fully charged (12.6 volts or more) before you attempt the load test.
I'm not sure this is accurate for a Catalina 310. The standard brochure from Catalina indicates refrigeration is standard. Unless I'm missing something.
Maybe now, but back then stripped bare was "standard".
I can remember this from looking around at all new boats when I bought my 1999 H-310 back in 1998.
This really has nothing to do with the subject thread, but Curt wasn't missing anything. Attached is the Catalina 310 standard equipment list.
I am guessing this issue started when fall set in and colder temperatures hit. This is when most of the starting batteries show their weakness and flaws.
Pull the battery. Take it to the nearest auto parts store and get it checked. My local AutoZone does powersport, lawn & garden, and marine battery testing for free. They can tell you if you have a battery issue(s).
If you do not have a battery issue, then I would do some additional troubleshooting.
Good Luck
You are so right about the 2000 model and quite likely @Fleet 's 2001 model as well when it comes to refrigeration. Guess we didn't rate any luxury models up here back in 1998
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