1990 H30-2 shore power breaker replacement

[BOSSailor]

Looking for ideas on how to replace/improve the shore power breaker on my boat.
I apologize for the lack of photos but I'm not sure how much they would help.
My shore power inlet is in the port lazarette and has a round push-type circuit breaker right under (or maybe above) it. The breaker itself has failed and will not reset. I know there are no faults in the system, it's 100% a dead CB. It only interrupts the hot line which is not in compliance with current practices.
Any suggestions for how to improve this? I found a surface-mount CB enclosure from Blue Sea Systems that I think could work but it seems like a lot of extra wire is going to get run. Almost considering relocating the inlet to abovedecks but that might bring its own problems (at least I'd be <10' to the panel and could skip the circuit breaker).

Kind of open-ended but I'm trying to see if there's ideas I haven't come up with yet. Thanks!

 

[JamesG161]

Per ABYC standards, first breaker must be within 10 inches of shore power inlet.
Jim...

 

[BOSSailor]

Not trying to argue or anything but I've always heard 10 feet for shore power
"E-8.11.9.3 If the location of the main shore power disconnect circuit breaker is in excess of three meters (10 feet) from the shore power inlet or the electrical attachment point of a permanently installed shore power cord, additional fuses or circuit breakers shall be provided within 10 feet (three meters) of the inlet or attachment point to the electrical system of the boat. Measurement is made along the conductors."
From https://sbo.sailboatowners.com/downloads/Hunter_gen_41598472.pdf

 

[JamesG161]

From them...
E-8.11.9.1.2.1 if it is physically impractical to place the
circuit breaker or fuse at the source of power, it can be placed within seven inches (178 mm) of the source of power for each circuit or conductor, measured along the conductor.

Jim...

PS: My copy said 10 inches

 

[Davidasailor26]

From them...
E-8.11.9.1.2.1 if it is physically impractical to place the
circuit breaker or fuse at the source of power, it can be placed within seven inches (178 mm) of the source of power for each circuit or conductor, measured along the conductor.

Jim...

PS: My copy said 10 inches

My understanding is that the seven inch requirement applies to on-board sources of power (e.g. batteries). Shore power requirements are explicitly specified as 10 feet in E-8.11.9.3 as BOSSailor pointed out.

 

[jssailem]

My understanding is
AC circuits (ie shore power) within 10 ft
DC circuits (ie batteries) within 7 inches, but there are some exceptions.

Here’s a handy graphic to help (from Bluesea).

 

[JamesG161]

Just like the OP said.... his was under his lazarette, so is mine with a water resistant covering over the switch.

We have 2 - 30 amp shore power inputs.

Then you can run 10 foot to your AC panel breakers.

This from my real copy of the 2008 ABCY E-11 standard

But we do have a Genset on board.
Jim...

 

[artboas]

Just like the OP said.... his was under his lazarette, so is mine with a water resistant covering over the switch.

View attachment 199443

We have 2 - 30 amp shore power inputs.

Then you can run 10 foot to your AC panel breakers.

This from my real copy of the 2008 ABCY E-11 standard
View attachment 199445

But we do have a Genset on board.
Jim...

Jim,
I’d like to (respectfully) respond on a few issues here
Whomever did this wiring did a less than stellar job. Seeing as this is mains AC input, and is prone to fire, I’m going to lay it out, and hope not to offend.

The wiring is not professionally done, and the first glaring evidence of that is the $9.99 crimp tool.
These types of “punch crimps” are horribly unreliable. The ONLY way to crimp is with controlled cycle ratchet tools which spread the swags over the whole barrel portion.
These crimps give point pressure only, and will easily pull off. Worse still, they have high resistance electrically.
Also, these crimps are really poor quality, and the wire is corroded in the crimp. This is due in part to not having an even fully compressed crimp.
Purchase new crimps from Blue Seas, and a proper controlled cycle tool.
If the wire shows corrosion when you strip it, very lightly sand the wire till you get clean copper.
I’m not sure if this is original Hunter wiring.
Next thing, get rid of the screws & replace them with fresh Phillips head screws
You can tell these breakers have been worked on before, and it’s tough to get proper torque into slot head screws.
Plus, these are really chewed up
Be sure to use ring terminals with holes the proper size for the screws. This is critical, and is dangerous if you use terminals with holes way over-sized.
Hope this has been helpful

 

[Justin_NSA]

Purchase new crimps from Blue Seas, and a proper controlled cycle tool.

I bought my crimp tool from Mainsail. I have one for standard terminals and a different one for heat shrink type terminals

 

[Fred]

If you are looking to upgrade your system... My insurance wants me to install an ELCI breaker. You may wish to consider this as well.

 

[artboas]

If you are looking to upgrade your system... My insurance wants me to install an ELCI breaker. You may wish to consider this as well.

Speaking of insurance and boats’ electrical systems, I highly recommend the Smartplug AC inlet. Especially for 50 amp systems.
No shortage of boat fires owing to twist lock connectors