Propane solenoid valve
- Thread starter Grichelli
- Start date
The stainless steel valve is considerably less expensive the Trident brass body "marine" valve Marine LP Gas Solenoid Valve Kit - Trident Marine Hose & Propane | Fisheries Supply. My choice is a Trident marine brass solenoid valve.
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Will be interesting to hear from others on this topic; however, I would first confirm that the valve meets ABYC standards. Regardless of cost, this is not an item to be selected on price alone. Too much riding on this device, including your life.
Looking at the ABYC Doc the SS valve will be ok.
I have in the past temporarily by-passed the solenoid switch until a replacement could be procured. I was not concerned at all as I knew I could run to the tank and close the valve manually practically just as quickly as turning the remote electrical switch off. I never lost the awareness for the dangers of propane whenever the tank valve was opened, I still manually open the tank valve just before cooking and make sure to turn it off immediately after finishing cooking. I keep my nose and eyes concentrated on the stove while the propane is flowing to quickly respond to a flameout or flareup. When I started boating we kept the propane tank in a cage on top of the cabin with copper tubbing in plain sight entering the cabin to the galley; we had no need for vented lockers, sniffers or pressure switches. At the time I had not heard of thermocouple switches in stoves. Now days I promptly replace solenoids with those that meet ABYC standards for the simple reason that I like to maintain my insurance coverage and would not want to have a claim denied for saving a few bucks. If I had no insurance on the boat perhaps I would keep the by-pass permanently, but that is me. Each has to weigh the necessary safety and convenience these propane systems bring to them.
When I had to replace mine on a H356 I looked really hard for a replacement part that was the same as the OEM. I didn't want to replace and find the lid wouldn't close because the dimension is off. I found it - if I remember correctly it was at a hydraulics supply store. In any event it wasn't a marine store.
I may give it a shot: Does anyone know what the original asco valve is, on mine the plate is faded and illegible. Can you also confirm that it’s 1/4” thread? Asco valves can be found at any grainier store and are reasonably priced for 12v valves.
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I went with the wife back to the boat on Sunday, has anyone had any luck with removing the solenoid. The two screws that hold it in place are partially covered by gelcoat. I sent my wife in the locker but she had no luck getting either of them loose. I'm on a ball so don't have a lot of options with using different power tools. I tried removing the 4 screws that hold the seaward locker in place but its glued on all 4 sides. Any thoughts or ideas?
That's why boat projects are so much fun!
The only thing I can think of is to remove the wiring and the gas lines and outline the base of it with a box cutter - just score it. Then using a sharp chisel remove the gelcoat/fiberglass working until the screw holes are exposed and any flange that is there. A Dremel may be useful too. If you can smack the screw ends from underneath it may come out. You may be able to get a pry bar underneath the unit. Last resort is to get a piece of plywood between it the locker surface and pry it out with a crowbar or other means.
The only thing I can think of is to remove the wiring and the gas lines and outline the base of it with a box cutter - just score it. Then using a sharp chisel remove the gelcoat/fiberglass working until the screw holes are exposed and any flange that is there. A Dremel may be useful too. If you can smack the screw ends from underneath it may come out. You may be able to get a pry bar underneath the unit. Last resort is to get a piece of plywood between it the locker surface and pry it out with a crowbar or other means.
Battery powered rotary (Dremel) tool. Grind the gelcoat off the screwheads and clean them up. Or, battery powered drill and drill em out.
I was able to go get it out this way, only down side is that we managed to drill a hole next to it. I'll epoxy the holes and re-drill for the new solenoid! Thank you!