Simpson Lawrence Sprint 900 Windlass Issues

[Nodak7]

Our Simpson Lawrence Sprint 900 Windlass was making a racket last time we anchored. It had been a year or so since I did any maintenance on it so when we got back home I took it apart. Unfortunately I had never lifted the lower friction plate (I didn't know I could) I found the bearing had been literally corroded so bad, from salt water leaking by the seal, that it was unrecognizable as a bearing. I found the replacement parts but now I am trying to figure out how to get the old bearing out without hurting the chase. Has anyone else had an issue like this or suggestions on how to remove. I don't have a bearing puller that fits and there isn't much to grab onto anyway! Suggestions please! Also anyone that has this windlass check the seal under the lower friction plate. The bearing is susceptible to salt water corrosion!

 

[Skipper Chris]

Thanks for the heads up. I learned something new also. I had no idea you could simply lift it up to inspect the bearing.

Thank you

 

[Rick486]

When we took possession of our new 44 DS one of the first things I did was to make a cover for this windlass. It is a very flawed design in that it allows water penetration all the way into the electric motor. Never had a problem.

 

[Nodak7]

OK! Just wanted to give you all a heads up regarding the windlass! After researching the cost of a new one ($$) I decided to try to rebuild and refurbish what I had. I found the bearing replacement on line. Simpson Lawrence Maintenance Kit for Sprint Atlantic I had to unbed the windlass to refurbish it. Tried to do it in place but realized that would not be possible. I had to literally grind the old bearing out without damaging the race. Fortunately I was able to do that. I cleaned the unit up, replaced the bearing and rebedded the windlass. Took awhile but it is all back together and working good! Just a reminder that if you boat in saltwater and anchor often check and protect that bearing. It is a poor design and when it gets deteriorated it is a bear to replace!

 

[flightlead404]

I'm about to embark on doing PM on mine (2007 H38 saltwater boat). It is currently working fine, but I have no maintenance records and am progressively doing PM on everything on the boat, the windlass is next up.

Do you have any pics, recommendations, tips of what to expect?

 

[Nodak7]

I'm about to embark on doing PM on mine (2007 H38 saltwater boat). It is currently working fine, but I have no maintenance records and am progressively doing PM on everything on the boat, the windlass is next up.

Do you have any pics, recommendations, tips of what to expect?

If it is a saltwater boat and has not been maintained you definitely need to raise the bottom friction plate (aka lower clutch cone p/n 82) and check the condition of the bearing beneath it. Also check that the seal beneath is in good shape. The design is not good and allows water to go under the plate and if the seal is old get into the bearing area. Just take it apart and lubricate and clean it annually other than that. I have attached the manual as well so you can see the exploded view. Good luck!

 

[flightlead404]

Finally got into this. Fugly! Clearly hasn't been off in forever, perhaps since new, idk. After scraping and brushing etc it looks about like your Pic #2. The split ring is corroded and I'm not sure I'll be able to remove it. Its soaking right now in PB Blaster. Ordered the kit you linked to, thanks for that.

If the split ring comes out, is it possible to remove the bearing from above, or do I need to remove the windlass like you did?

FWIW mine operates just fine, I'm just doing all the PM I can before I head south in Dec since I bought the boat with no maintenance records.

 

[Nodak7]

Finally got into this. Fugly! Clearly hasn't been off in forever, perhaps since new, idk. After scraping and brushing etc it looks about like your Pic #2. The split ring is corroded and I'm not sure I'll be able to remove it. Its soaking right now in PB Blaster. Ordered the kit you linked to, thanks for that.

If the split ring comes out, is it possible to remove the bearing from above, or do I need to remove the windlass like you did?

FWIW mine operates just fine, I'm just doing all the PM I can before I head south in Dec since I bought the boat with no maintenance records.

Flight, I got the split ring out by getting a high quality pick. Once I got it started it came right out. No I don't think you actuality needs to come out. I took it out because it was easier to work on it in the shop rather than the boat.

 

[flightlead404]

I was going to use either the heavy Lewmar winch grease on the bearing, or high-temp marine wheel bearing grease (the stuff used for boat trailers). Any reason why either of these would not be appropriate?

 

[Nodak7]

I was going to use either the heavy Lewmar winch grease on the bearing, or high-temp marine wheel bearing grease (the stuff used for boat trailers). Any reason why either of these would not be appropriate?

Either would work. I used the marine grease (wheel bearing).

 

[flightlead404]

How do you get the bloody thing out?

I cannot remove the shaft from above as the circlip is corroded and I cannot get it to move, even with days of soaking in PB Blaster and try to tempt it out (or even to move) with a hammer and drift.

I tried to remove it from below, but undoing the 4 nuts on the mounting studs did not let me remove it from below. It just rocked back and forth a tiny bit. I *think* the shaft may be preventing it from coming off.

I even attempted to remove the bottom plate of the windlass body from below, by removing the 4 or 5 socket head screws thinking I might be able to access things from inside, but stopped pretty quickly when it started to leak what appears to be a medium/thin viscosity clear (gear?) oil (not the PB Blaster fwiw).

Amiscrewed?

 

[Nodak7]

How do you get the bloody thing out?

I cannot remove the shaft from above as the circlip is corroded and I cannot get it to move, even with days of soaking in PB Blaster and try to tempt it out (or even to move) with a hammer and drift.

I tried to remove it from below, but undoing the 4 nuts on the mounting studs did not let me remove it from below. It just rocked back and forth a tiny bit. I *think* the shaft may be preventing it from coming off.

I even attempted to remove the bottom plate of the windlass body from below, by removing the 4 or 5 socket head screws thinking I might be able to access things from inside, but stopped pretty quickly when it started to leak what appears to be a medium/thin viscosity clear (gear?) oil (not the PB Blaster fwiw).

Amiscrewed?

Flight, I went back and looked at my photos and it should just lift out. However, if you can get underneath the unit you should be able to use a punch and give it a few good taps to the shaft to dislodge it.

 

[flightlead404]

Flight, I went back and looked at my photos and it should just lift out. However, if you can get underneath the unit you should be able to use a punch and give it a few good taps to the shaft to dislodge it.

thanks for your ongoing help with this. Specifically what should lift out? The shaft? I can’t tell if the shaft is thicker below the bearing or if there are more pins/shaft keys below it but it isn’t budging.

the baseplate or whatever it is called isn’t busing a mm even with the nuts below fully backed off.

 

[flightlead404]

Edit. I just reviewed your pics. In your pic of the shaft, is the bearing mounted on the shaft? Looks like the shaft is wider below the bearing and also may be held in place with a long shaft key.

 

[Nodak7]

Edit. I just reviewed your pics. In your pic of the shaft, is the bearing mounted on the shaft? Looks like the shaft is wider below the bearing and also may be held in place with a long shaft key.

No the shaft is the same diameter from the bearing down. You can see the circlip that holds the bearing in place. The bearing is what supports the shaft. From what you describe the shaft (and key) are stuck in the bearing gear race. In the pictures you can see the keyway in the lower portion of the windlass and the keyway in the shaft. The shaft should just slide up and down in there. There might be some corrosion down in there that is keeping the shaft from coming out. But you can see the bottom of the shaft from the bottom of the windlass and taping on it should loosen it

 

[flightlead404]

No the shaft is the same diameter from the bearing down. You can see the circlip that holds the bearing in place. The bearing is what supports the shaft. From what you describe the shaft (and key) are stuck in the bearing gear race. In the pictures you can see the keyway in the lower portion of the windlass and the keyway in the shaft. The shaft should just slide up and down in there. There might be some corrosion down in there that is keeping the shaft from coming out. But you can see the bottom of the shaft from the bottom of the windlass and taping on it should loosen it

hmmm......

Well you have had your fingers and eyes in the guts of this thing, so you have better intel. Please correct me where I'm wrong. It looks like below the upper keyway on the shaft there is a groove with an O ring, then a short shoulder on the shaft with a larger diameter that rides on top of the inner race of the bearing. The bearing itself is retained in the raceway of the baseplate with the large upper circlip I've been fighting with. Below that is the bearing, then below the baseplate another smaller circlip, but with this circlip retained in a groove in the shaft.

Its hard for me to tell if that 2nd circlip would prevent the shaft being lifted free if the upper circlip cannot be removed. Is that lower circlip below the baseplate? If so, can it pass through the baseplate or no?

Secondarily, there's a lower keyway for what looks like a long key, but I can't tell from your pics or the diagram whether or not that would also prevent the shaft coming out.

I'm assuming there's a pinion gear on the motor driving a ring gear under the shaft turning it by means of that long key somehow, the parts diagram doesn't show the gearbox in any detail. It appears that the bottom of the shaft (see pic) protrudes out of the bottom of the gearbox (looks like you can see the end of the shaft key as well).

With everything above removed, are you saying a tap on the bottom of the shaft should free it and allow it to be lifted clear with the bearing and upper circlip remaining in the baseplate?

Thanks again, sorry for being so dense

 

[Sgrmagnolia10]

Nodak7, what did you use to grind the old bearing out? Ive got the exact same issue. I was also wondering how your experience with SLspares was. I am in need of a whole new gear box to boot. Motor still works.

 

[Nodak7]

Nodak7, what did you use to grind the old bearing out? Ive got the exact same issue. I was also wondering how your experience with SLspares was. I am in need of a whole new gear box to boot. Motor still works.

SG I used a Dremal tool with a grinding wheel. I was very careful about grinding out the bearing without grinding on the race. Of course I did nick it a few times but got the bearing out completely. The link I put in the original was were I got my rebuild kit. They were pretty responsive. I have a friend who had the same issue and replaced the whole windlass (cheaper) rather than just the gearbox. I do not recall the model number he used but it was an exact replacement for the 900. Good Luck!

 

[Sgrmagnolia10]

Thanks Nodak7. The orange grinding wheels for Dremel? I would love to know what model number your friend's replacement was. When I called Lewmar they suggested the V1 but it has a smaller footprint and a different wiring schematic. Three posts on the motor rather than 2.

 

[Sgrmagnolia10]

It worked!!! Took my Dremel to the bearing and was ultimately able to get it all out of there. I did nick the race a couple of times as well. How perfect does it need to be to function properly? The tiny bit of damage is so minimal I can't imagine it would be an issue when I see how the bearing is designed but I'm new to this so I figure I'll ask