H23.5 sliding hatch
- Thread starter joetr1955
- Start date
Do you have the existing one?
Do you have the sliding hatch that you can dissemble and take measurements OR measure the hole dimensions?
Any retail plastics shop can supply cover like post #10 in Florida: (1) entry hatch slider | Sailboat Owners Forums
Post #5 describes its material (Lexan) and some construction notes: (1) Hunter 23 Sliding Hatch Question | Sailboat Owners Forums
Photo below of a Hunter 23.5 hatch.......looks like dark smoke (recommended for a hot, sunny conditions).
Do you have the sliding hatch that you can dissemble and take measurements OR measure the hole dimensions?
Any retail plastics shop can supply cover like post #10 in Florida: (1) entry hatch slider | Sailboat Owners Forums
Post #5 describes its material (Lexan) and some construction notes: (1) Hunter 23 Sliding Hatch Question | Sailboat Owners Forums
Photo below of a Hunter 23.5 hatch.......looks like dark smoke (recommended for a hot, sunny conditions).
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I'm about to rebuild mine with new Plexi. Can provide dimensions.
-Z
-Z
Check these guys out. I replaced my companionway slider a couple of years ago and was very happy with their service.. Ya probably want light smoke and about 1/2" thick cast acrylic (Plexiglas)
Cast Acrylic - Transparent Colors (Chemcast Acrylic Sheets) : TAP Plastics
Cast Acrylic - Transparent Colors (Chemcast Acrylic Sheets) : TAP Plastics
Check the clearance where the slider goes to see a 1/2 inch slider will slide. Just be aware of heat and cold does on the slider deminsions. Definitely have someone help you when taking it out and wear shoes for safety
Tried to remove the slider by myself which feel on my bare foot. Taken to hospital and was in a cast for six weeks. Learned the hard way to wear safety shoes which is why I suggest a second person when working on the companionway top
Can you give dimensions of the the slider ??? Cost and shipping ??? Pictures??? Very much appreciated what ever you can provide!!!!! Joe
Ok, so here's the hatch that came with the boat, it was fogged up and sagging in the middle. It appears to be lexan. The dimensions are 35.5" x 30". I measured the thickness at 5/16".
I ordered a new piece from TAP Plastics in 1/2" Acrylic. The color is Lt Smoke. I had them radius the corners 1/2" and round the edges. I was disappointed to find that they only rounded the edge on 1 side. If I did it over again I would ask they round both sides. The cost was $290 shipped to my door in less than a week. It fits perfect in the opening.
HOWEVER, it does NOT fit under the fiberglass cover--it is too thick, causing the teak rain deflector to rub on the fiberglass. I will be trimming the teak and then I am confident it will fit. Will report back on this later.
Based on a compilation of (sometimes conflicting) advice from multiple threads on this forum, I cut a 'rain groove' in three sides on the bottom, 1/8" deep and 1/4" wide, 1/2" from the edge.
I also cut a rain groove in the top rear, about 1.5" from the rear edge.
As you could probably deduce I was unable to finish this last weekend so I will modify the teak and hopefully have finished pics next week.
-Z
I ordered a new piece from TAP Plastics in 1/2" Acrylic. The color is Lt Smoke. I had them radius the corners 1/2" and round the edges. I was disappointed to find that they only rounded the edge on 1 side. If I did it over again I would ask they round both sides. The cost was $290 shipped to my door in less than a week. It fits perfect in the opening.
HOWEVER, it does NOT fit under the fiberglass cover--it is too thick, causing the teak rain deflector to rub on the fiberglass. I will be trimming the teak and then I am confident it will fit. Will report back on this later.
Based on a compilation of (sometimes conflicting) advice from multiple threads on this forum, I cut a 'rain groove' in three sides on the bottom, 1/8" deep and 1/4" wide, 1/2" from the edge.
I also cut a rain groove in the top rear, about 1.5" from the rear edge.
As you could probably deduce I was unable to finish this last weekend so I will modify the teak and hopefully have finished pics next week.
-Z
She's all done! I did have to shave about half an inch off the top edges of the teak in the rear and also replaced the rubber bumpers on the bottom of the hatch. I would say if you are worried about clearance you should go with the 3/8" Plexi. For me the 1/2" is fantastic.
-Z
-Z
I bought 1/2 in for mine ,dark smoke . I don’t know where or what are the bumpers ?? Mine are missing !! Pics ????
On my 95 i ran a piece of the fuzzy side of self stick 3/4 in velco on both sides of boat under plexi on rain gutter for it to slide on instead of sliding on fiberglass.Open alot easier.
Looks nice !!!! Previous owner step on his slider and broke it . He replaced it with 1/4 in clear plexiglass with tint film . He also use a piece of kitchen cabinet laminated particle wood for the slider top handle . A couple good rains in Florida and it swelled to 3 times it’s original size . So , like said previously, I got a nice piece of 1/2 in acrylic dark black smoked 35 1/2 in by 30 in fits perfect !!! I have collection of teak assorted sizes and will make a top slider handle . There’s no short cuts in boat maintenance . Are the screw heads on the top of the slider that are exposed securing the bottom slider handle , is that the hunter factory original design ???????
Wood screws were used to secure the teak handle by screwing them from the inside upward using oval heads recessed into the lexan.
HUNTER PUT A NO STEP WARNING SIGN ON THE LEXAN SLIDER HATCHES. I SUGGEST TO EVERYONE, NEVER STEP ON THAT LEXAN
HUNTER PUT A NO STEP WARNING SIGN ON THE LEXAN SLIDER HATCHES. I SUGGEST TO EVERYONE, NEVER STEP ON THAT LEXAN
Here's a pic from the underside. The bumpers are in the upper corners. They are 1/2" thick from the hardware store. The originals were half as thick and dry rotted to hell.
The teak is attached with #10 x 1" flat head wood screws, countersunk into the plexi and sealed with butyl tape. I copied the design of the existing hatch, but in hindsight, I'm not sure the underside teak is original or necessary.
The felt padding is a good idea. I already have some linear scratches appearing on the slider.
-Z
The teak is attached with #10 x 1" flat head wood screws, countersunk into the plexi and sealed with butyl tape. I copied the design of the existing hatch, but in hindsight, I'm not sure the underside teak is original or necessary.
The felt padding is a good idea. I already have some linear scratches appearing on the slider.
-Z