Leaks from hull/deck joint Hunter 33.5

[Don Reid]

Please confirm that the above drawing is the correct configuration for the hull/deck joint on a Hunter 33.5. If not does anyone have the correct drawing?
I am considering buying a 33.5 which has evidence of water incursion at several points and evidenced by staining to the carpet covering on the sides of both berths.
I have researched the cause of the leaks and the toint appears to be the culprit.
Thanks in advance,
Don

 

[Ralph Johnstone]

Hi @Don Reid and welcome to the site.

First, what is the year of the boat you are looking at ?

Second, I don't think the drawing you show is related to a Hunter unless it's for very early models. More recent Hunters use a flanged hull/deck joint bolted every 6". This looks like a Beneteau construction.

Below is a photo of a Hunter rub rail assembly sent to me by Hunter. The hull/deck flange joint sits between the internal vinyl piece and the rub rail is applied like cap.



Also, Hunters now have a solid FG toe rail as part of the deck.

 

[Don Reid]

Hi Ralph,
Thank you for reply.
Boat year is 1988 which makes an early production of the 33.5
The picture below is the best depiction of the toe rail on the actual boat that I have. I have to assume that the hull/deck joint is under the rub strip. The picture should enlarge but with attendant quality loss
Thanks again for your interest,
Stay safe,
Don

 

[DArcy]

@Don Reid I think the comments above about the hull deck joint design of hunters is fairly accurate but I don't know the 33.5, the older Hunter 40 had the style of joint you show above.
If you do get a good enough price on the boat to justify the repair, and it is similar to the image you showed in your first post, here is the thread detailing my repair job to give you an idea of what your are up against.

Resealing the Hull to Deck Joint

I've had this boat for a year now. I knew there were some rain leaks but I didn't know where. The previous owner thought the large saloon windows leaked and he had this crack seal stuff he would apply now and then. I've never seen that stuff work so I started removing and rebedding the windows...

forums.sailboatowners.com

 

[nbraasch]

Hello all - I bought this boat and have been sailing it Summer of 2021. We have the hull to deck joint work scheduled for this fall, I'll post with updates on the results.

 

[BigEasy]

I am considering buying a 33.5 which has evidence of water incursion at several points and evidenced by staining to the carpet covering on the sides of both berths.

Don,
My 1988 Hunter 33.5 had leaks as evidenced by stains on the carpeting; however, the stanchion bases were the source. Had to rebed all of the bases. Also, Chain plates had leaked before I purchased and forward teak bulkhead stained where the chain plates attached inside the cabin. Another major problem was the wiring race beneath the mast leaked onto the wooden compression post and caused the compression post to completely rot. The post had to be removed and replaced with a custom fabricated aluminum post. The most difficult leak to isolate was caused by delamination between the hull and anchor locker drain hole; every time it rained, the small space forward of the water tank in the V berth would accumulate water. Finally got all the leaks located after a few years. Good luck with the boat; I really enjoyed mine for six years. Was totaled in Hurricane Katrina in 2005.

 

[dbreedlove]

Hey BigEasy:
I have the same stanchion leak issue on our 1988 33.5. Doesn’t seem like there is access to the nuts on the interior side of the anchoring bolts. Wondering if they are embedded in some way? Before I start pulling the bolts out from the topside it would be nice to know I’ll be able to lock it down again. Any tricks you would like to pass on? Thanks. Dan.

 

[jssailem]

Leaks blamed on deck joints may or may not be accurate.

If the boat has sustained damage to the deck joint, say in a collision, there should be damage evident on the hull either inside or out. To break the hull/deck joint to a point that it would become the source of the leak requires considerable force. Such force shows up as huge spider cracks (or their surface repairs) internal tabbing loose or cracked. Hitting something is not the only source, a missed placed strap used to lift a boat in a rescue can cause such damage. Again the strap will leave other evidence in the area suspected of "hull/deck joint leakage".

I would be more suspect of the hardware, ports and through deck fittings being the source of leaks. Once water enters through the outer deck fiberglass it can travel a long way and show up in unusual places leading a repair detective to conclude the wrong problem i.e. Hull/Deck Joint.

Before you commit major money to a hull/deck joint repair, be sure of the evidence that leads you there.

 

[BigEasy]

Hey BigEasy:
I have the same stanchion leak issue on our 1988 33.5. Doesn’t seem like there is access to the nuts on the interior side of the anchoring bolts. Any tricks you would like to pass on? Thanks. Dan.

No tricks! Just estimate position of offending stanchion, or all of them if necessary, in the inside of the cabin. You will have to remove the wall carpeting in that area to locate the washers & nuts for the stanchion bolts on the interior aspect of the deck. May have to use a socket extension & swivel to access. I don't recall having to remove cabinetry or any modifications necessary to access the bolts. Definitely easier with two people, especially when resealing. I taped the perimeter of the stanchion base location on deck to make cleanup of the 3M 4200 easier. That was approximately 20 years ago before I was aware of butyl tape. Would likely use a combination of 4200 on the threads and butyl under the deck base to seal them now. If the stanchions have never been resealed; definitely need to reseal.