I'd go with a 6" Orbital sander. Buy a couple 80#, 60# and,...40# grit disks.
Start with the former and work down.
You'll know which grit 10 pack of sanding discs you need to buy.
We need to grind down the cockpit coaming and paint it.
- Thread starter capta
- Start date
Start with the former and work down.
You'll know which grit 10 pack of sanding discs you need to buy.
I'd start out with 80 grit on a random oribital palm sander, evaluate how quickly it cuts and then switch to 60 grit or an angle grinder. Using a angle grinder on stuff like this takes a delicate hand. It almost feels like an art form
Too aggressive and it's difficult to avoid gouging. @capta only wants to do a relatively small area, the coaming top. Any of the name brands, DeWalt, Porter-Cable, Makita, Bosch, etc random orbit sanders will do fine with less risk of gouging.
IDK, but it seems to me that ANY horizontal surface big enough that somebody COULD step on it should be nonskid, whether or not it seems like an intentional foot traffic area. Because sooner or later, somebody WILL step on it.
No this is quite apropos. It is highly unlikely I can get even the 3M discs here, let alone the screens, but this is helpful info, thanks.
Sadly we have few options as the PO no longer delivers here. So, if not available on the island, we'll have to import everything from Trini and we don't want to do that multiple times. So, I guess it's a box of each.I'd go with a 6" Orbital sander. Buy a couple 80#, 60# and,...40# grit disks.
Start with the former and work down.
You'll know which grit 10 pack of sanding discs you need to buy.
Abranet mesh is good brand of mesh. They cut faster and lasted longer than any of the Norton disks I tried. And they are almost dust free when hooked up to a vacuum system, to keep you and the surrounding area clean. They are available with hook and loop backing and are super easy to switch.
I would use an Orbital sander for removal, then apply fairing compound. After that, Since it’s a flat surface, I’d sand by hand with a block to ensure a flat surface for a subsequent steps if it’s going to be refinished with a high gloss top coat.
if the surface were curved, I’d use a long board for fairing
Judy B
if the surface were curved, I’d use a long board for fairing
Judy B
An update. Here's a pic of the coaming. Square tape are holes for screws or bolts that won't be going back on. Absolutely no cracks around the winches, which is why, if patched properly the ones from under the teak shouldn't reappear, I hope.
As you can see, non-skid is pointless.
As you can see, non-skid is pointless.
For that I'd use a quarter-sheet finish sander with 60-grit and work down to 80 grit. Best control.
Wow that’s a lot of holes!
You might want to consider filling the holes before you sand it all off.The picture confused me for second, bow direction was obvious, then I noticed the mast? Took me a second to remember you have a little bit bigger “yacht” then mine
We got a new generator and had to cut a hole in the cockpit floor for the replacement. They added faux teak over the glassed in hole. We’re considering this around our coaming. HD carries this.
Got rid of the 12v light in the engine room and added LED’s.
Attachments
Last edited:
That is the plan. yeah, two masts. lolWow that’s a lot of holes!
The picture confused me for second, bow direction was obvious, then I noticed the mast? Took me a second to remember you have a little bit bigger “yacht” then mine
I bought one of these a couple years ago, and can't recommend it more highly! Light weight, controllable, does complex or flat surfaces well and it sands really fast!
dj
It’s going take a lot of prep work and supplies (sounds like there are limitations where you are) to get it looking good with paint considering all the hole patching. I think you might be overlooking the significant lessening of these challenges with paint by using a textured product. It’s like texturing on drywall. It hides things.
Last edited: