Hunter 240 water ballast valve gasket adhesive

[Dolphin55]

What adhesive would you recommend for replacing my water ballast valve gasket underneath the boat? Its needs to be a reliable bond below the water line. When I purchased the boat a few years ago, the gasket was gone. I am figuring the gasket is important for safety reasons - to keep the water ballast intact in the event of a knockdown.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@caverun or @Rick Macdonald can you handle? Dealing with SBA & FAA TODAY

 

[Jimmy]

What adhesive would you recommend for replacing my water ballast valve gasket underneath the boat? Its needs to be a reliable bond below the water line. When I purchased the boat a few years ago, the gasket was gone. I am figuring the gasket is important for safety reasons - to keep the water ballast intact in the event of a knockdown.

I used 5200 but there is a thread about this I believe

 

[Rick Macdonald]

I actually have no idea, and I've been hoping to get an answer to this myself!

 

[caverun]

I used 3M 4200 on mine, but I just used 3M weatherstrip adhesive for another rubber repair and it worked great. I would probably use that next time. Got it at Advance Auto, but of course Amazon has it too:

Amazon.com: 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 08581, 2 fl oz Tube, Black: Garden & Outdoor

Buy 3M Super Weatherstrip and Gasket Adhesive, 08581, 2 fl oz Tube, Black: Adhesives - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases

www.amazon.com

 

[Dolphin55]

Thank you so much for the speedy replies! Caverun, both adhesives look good but I think that I will go with the 5200 since it is specifically designed for below the waterline. The black adhesive is not advertised for below the waterline. Was yours below the waterline?

 

[caverun]

No it was not below the waterline, just the rubber seal that had come loose along the bottom of my outboard cover. So yea, probably better to use 4200 or 5200.

 

[sail sfbay]

Are you sure you need adhesive? Can you just tighten the rubber gasket? Diagram from your manual from the link below.

https://www.marlow-hunter.com/wp-content/export/Owners-Manuals/240%20260%20Owner's%20Manual.pdf

 

[Rick Macdonald]

With the boat on the trailer, at least for my 23.5, you can't get the plunger all the way out because of the trailer bunks. So you'd have to cut a slit in the gasket from the edge to the center hole to get it on and then require adhesive. I thought of dropping it out in waist-deep water but I'm afraid I'd not be able to line up the rod and push the plunger back up into the boat. Especially without scuba gear.

 

[Dolphin55]

Rick, I had the same thought. Planning to use the slit method to easily install it while on the trailer.

SailSFbay, I am talking about the rubber gasket at the bottom bonded to the plate.

 

[Dolphin55]

No it was not below the waterline, just the rubber seal that had come loose along the bottom of my outboard cover. So yea, probably better to use 4200 or 5200.

Which is better?

 

[Dolphin55]

Just did some research. I guess 4200 is semi-permanent, 5200 is permanent. But 5200 is more salt water resilient. So I guess 5200 is the best choice because I do not foresee removing it unless it somehow gets damaged.

 

[Dolphin55]

Scratch that, just read the fine print and found out that 4200 is also resilient for salt water. So I think that I will use the 4200 just in case I need to replace it again after wear and tear.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

5200

 

[twistedskipper]

I have heard before about 5200 being permanent. How hard will it be to clean it all off if the gasket needs replacing again?

 

[Dolphin55]

5200

But what if I need to remove it after it wears out? Wouldn't 4200 be better?

 

[rgranger]

I made a gasket out of "goop". I used masking tape to make a damn and then pored it in. That was 2017 and it is still holding up well.

 

[Rick Macdonald]

I made a gasket out of "goop". I used masking tape to make a damn and then pored it in. That was 2017 and it is still holding up well.

Some questions:

How thick is the gasket that you poured? Was one 3.7 oz/109.4 ml tube enough?

I think I read that Goop is runny enough to self-level to make a smooth surface. Did you find that?

I can see the pattern of the 4 circular holes on the surface of the Goop, as if you closed the valve before it was fully cured. But, that would have messed up the masking tape which appears perfectly intact. Please explain! ;-)

 

[rgranger]

Yes it did self level... and I've done this trick several times. Here is a gasket I made for a keel pin for the swing keel of a Balboa 26... In this picture you can see the cured product a little better.

Here is a pic of a gasket I made when bedding the pedestal mount for my tiller pilot.

To answer your question about the imprints seen on the ballast valve... I don't know what the PO did (I'm guessing nothing) so what you are seeing is the remnants of the old gasket. It appeared to me to be hard glue so I'm guessing that is the 5200 that had been used to glue the old neoprene gasket in place but... the gasket itself was long gone.

And if memory serves me right.. I put two tubes in to make the ballast tank gasket.

Hope this helps. BTW: The goop does stick well once cured. On my boat I waited about 36 hours and then gently closed the valve. The rubber becomes VERY hard in about 72 hours so I wanted mine to still be a little bit pliable so I could get a good tight seal. Now when I lower my valve I do see the imprints in the rubber so... I believe I have a very tight seal.

 

[Crazy Dave Condon]

@rgranger
Rob, can you post under owner mods in both 26 and 260 boat info? Thanks