What wood to use

[TomY]

Let's get serious about glues and plywood.

Most glues are reasonably water resistant. Even the basic cheap wood glues at the HW store. Let them cure. throw some water on them and they still stick like glue. Now if you are using a starch based glue, like we used in Kindergarten, that's a different story.

For interior furniture on a boat, especially one in Ottawa, there won't be enough moisture to penetrate the plywood, soften the glue and cause it to fail. If the boat should fill with water and stay water logged for a while then the glue might be an issue. Otherwise, not so much.

The most important factors are stability, will the plywood warp or twist? Stability is determined by the number of plies. Cheap exterior sheathing with 3 plies will warp unless it is nailed down every 16 inches. Plywood with 5 or more plies will not warp and twist. More plies and thinner plies yield more stable plywood.

The second big issue is voids and knot holes. Cheap exterior sheathing plywood has knotholes and knotholes hiding in the middle plies. Bad for boat furniture.

The third issue is the outer surfaces. "Birch" Plywood, cabinet grade ply, and marine ply all have well sanded surfaces ready for a light sanding and finish. This makes finishing much easier.

A plywood like this would work.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Plytanium-15-32-CAT-PS1-09-Square-Structural-Plywood-Pine-Application-as-4-x-8/3010108

Seal all the surfaces with good enamel paint or polyurethane and you'll be fine for your application, your boat, in your location.

If you don't like the appearance of sanded pine and don't want to go to the expense of Birch plywood. Shop for some veneer. and cover the visible surfaces with veneer.

Another option is to laminate a ¼" nicely veneer plywood on to a sanded plywood base. Use thickened epoxy or epoxy and a layer of glass to bond the two boards together. It will be stronger and have a nice surface to stain or finish.

Good summary. And don't forget MDO. If it's going to be painted, I use that. They make highway signs out of it and don't epoxy. I used that for the removable panel to the right that the TP holder is mounted to. Paints beautifully. I didn't epoxy (I don't epoxy anything to seal it but that's just me).

 

[Ken Cross]

I brought up the idea of plastics as an alternative not knowing specifically how they would be used. Starboard is an option, but see what's available locally. As others have said, it may not be suitable if it's structural. I just think of how easily plastics clean. The same can be said for plastic laminates over wood or plywood (You likely have those already as countertop or tabletop.) They cal also be used on other surfaces.

Just a bit out of the box. Ken

 

[fred1diver]

so the boat is stick built, I started removing a bench seat for the dining table, and I'll definitely need my oscillating tool to cut the fibreglass tabbing. I decided on meranti marine plywood which I'll be sealing the ends and oiling them with teak oil for the outside finish and will be painting the interior on the cabinets white.

 

[dlochner]

I'll definitely need my oscillating tool to cut the fibreglass

You'll need an angle grinder to remove all the old tabbing and get down to the original glass to ensure a good bond.

There is seldom good news when refitting an old boat.

 

[fred1diver]

the grinder is already aboard, just want to get the old cabinets out before grinding.
I just hope I'll be able to save the old trim pieces.
if the weather is nice I might go on friday to remove the first module, which should be fun lol
I'm a sucker for punishment

 

[DArcy]

I just went through this in the spring, I had to cut out the floor which is tabbed to the hull and some sections of cabinetry. The oscillating tool is the way to go.

 

[dlochner]

I'm a sucker for punishment

Anyone who owns a DIY boat is a sucker for punishment.

 

[fred1diver]

so I bought some Meranti plywood today, wow is the stuff expensive, cost me 482$ for 2 ½" and 1 ¾" plywood sheet, still need to figure what wood to use for the cleats to fasten all the wood together, thinking hardwood, maybe cherry, my local distributor is sold out of teak
I removed most of the port side settees just have the bottom to remove, maybe tomorrow if it isn't too hot.

 

[srimes]

so I bought some Meranti plywood today, wow is the stuff expensive, cost me 482$ for 2 ½" and 1 ¾" plywood sheet, still need to figure what wood to use for the cleats to fasten all the wood together, thinking hardwood, maybe cherry, my local distributor is sold out of teak
I removed most of the port side settees just have the bottom to remove, maybe tomorrow if it isn't too hot.

White oak is strong and good for boat building. Doug fir is an appropriate softwood.

 

[rpludwig]

repeat....Sapele!

 

[DArcy]

Hey Fred, did you try The Wood Source on Mitch Owens drive for teak? That's where I got it last time but that was several years ago. Ipe is also good, @Tom Young has used it and his work is amazing.

 

[dLj]

still need to figure what wood to use for the cleats to fasten all the wood together, thinking hardwood, maybe cherry, my local distributor is sold out of teak

Cherry is not a good choice. Dug fur and oak are both good choices. Sapelli can work but it's a little brittle for cleats. But would work. I prefer Ipe over teak. You would almost not notice the difference in appearance. Also for cleats you can use iroko although it's a bit harder to get state-side. It's an African wood. Basically worked with metal working tools.

If you can find it you could also use locust. Whenever I use a wood for a "working" component, like your cleats, I prefer a wood naturally resistant to the environment where it's being used.

dj

 

[RitSim]

I had to replace the water damaged risers to my salon seating. I found a supplier in Annapolis that stocked many thicknesses of B!!! waterproof marine plywood. They had a few different top veneers Sapele, Okume and I think a few others. The great part was that I sent them an CAD file and they CNC cut the plywood to shape and size One 4x8 sheet, programming, cutting and, shipping was under $400. Try looking at

Boatbuilding Supplies: Fiberglass, Epoxy, Plywood, Specialty Tools, & Disposables

Marine plywood, lumber, epoxy, fiberglass, finishing supplies, specialty tools, and disposables.

www.clcboats.com

My only issue is I selected the lighter mahogany and needed it a darker shade. This plywood does not soak up a bunch of stain. Finally had to resort to stain/varnish combination to get the matching shade

 

[fred1diver]

Hey Darcy I went to KJP it was closer for me. I guess I'll go with oak, it will be hidden anyways. And it's easy to find lol.

Thinking about redesigning my galley at the same time, since I have to redo it anyways, simple galley, a sink and a place for the alcool stove, my old one had a space behind the sink and stove to store food and what not and a simple storage under it, might just change the opening for the top storage to make it bigger, not sure yet.

 

[fred1diver]

so I bought my oak today, bought a 6x1 x6 board, ripped it to make ¾" cleats, so Monday I'll start cutting my floors and glassing them in place so I can cut my sole and then we can start building the settees.