New ceiling

[Mr Fox]

Not the underside of a roof, but the slats along the inside of the hull. I had this done by the wood guru at my yard (I’ve got 3 kids and a job so no way I could take this on).

Stripped interior gel coat where stringers would attach, bonded with 5200, then fully glassed in stringers. White pine planks with epifane rub looked varnish, bronze screws countersunk so they are flush. Went with the pine as my boat already had a fair amount of darker teak inside, want to keep it light and makes a nice contrast I think.

 

[PaulK]

Looks very nice. I have to do our main bulkhead over, but will need to use veneer. Quite unforgiving.

 

[Mr Fox]

Thanks! Oh yeah, veneer takes some real skill (that I definitely don’t have).

 

[rgranger]

 

[capta]

Ceiling: Decorative linings to the cabin sides, but not normally overhead. In a boat the ceilings correspond to the walls of a room ashore.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

looks very nice. Happy to see folks know about ceilings.

My own boat is done with ash. 3/4 " urethane insulation behind the strips

 

[TomY]

Nice choice on the light color of White Pine. Did your guru use a 1/2" (or?) stock or re-saw from 4/4? I notice it's nearly clear. Would you ask him how many trips he made from Vee berth to saw?

 

[FastOlson]

Love the traditional look, and it leaves an air space behind the wood.
I am working now on new ceilings for the aft cabin, having previously done some of the main cabin, two hanging lockers, and the forepeak. The forepeak was rather more work than I expected , going in, but then that's about par for all projects on a boat.
Here is one of three links for this project:

O34 - Forepeak Hull Ceilings Completed

Recently we did the final part of the project to install new insulated hull ceilings in the forepeak. As noted here previously, we used honeycomb panels from from the former Boeing Surplus Store in Seattle. Same Formica surface treatment. Since...

ericsonyachts.org

The finished work pleases us, and getting compliments also pleases us!

You are going to get a LOT of compliments on your work!

 

[Mr Fox]

Nice choice on the light color of White Pine. Did your guru use a 1/2" (or?) stock or re-saw from 4/4? I notice it's nearly clear. Would you ask him how many trips he made from Vee berth to saw?

Thanks Tom, it took a lot of searching as no one online seems to name boat ceiling correctly. All the images I got for wood inspiration were undersides of cabin tops...

I will send him an email with those questions. He’s been busy lately trying to talk me into letting my exterior teak go gray. His gripe on varnished teak “taking a wood perfectly suited for outdoor use and turning into something perfectly terrible for outdoor use”. Funny because he’s amazing with varnish (and gets paid more the more he does!)

 

[Mr Fox]

You are going to get a LOT of compliments on your work!

That looks really pretty FastOlsen, I’ll look for more pics as it progresses.

Thanks for the compliment but it was not my hands that did this, I will be sure to pass the kind words along. In my boat you get a damp shoulder from a warm body up against the hull on cold evenings, the airspace should take care of that perfectly. If not I can easily remove the slats and insulate but I don’t think I’ll need too.

 

[Mr Fox]

looks very nice. Happy to see folks know about ceilings.

My own boat is done with ash. 3/4 " urethane insulation behind the strips

View attachment 176143

That really makes the cabin an inviting place to be. Ash is a nice color. Beautiful! The insulation must be useful addition too. Awesome.

 

[Mr Fox]

Nice choice on the light color of White Pine. Did your guru use a 1/2" (or?) stock or re-saw from 4/4? I notice it's nearly clear. Would you ask him how many trips he made from Vee berth to saw?

here’s what I got- the stringers were done in coosa board. See below for reply as to planking.

He started with 4/4 stock, ripped it, and planed to 5/16. Traditionally, ceiling stock has parallel sides and is sprung into position. That approach wouldn’t work in this instance due to the shapes involved so, each piece is actually sawn to shape. I think he used thin plywood stock, hot glued together, to make a pattern which he then used to lay out the planking schedule. Knowing Chip and how efficient he is, there probably weren’t too many trips up and down the ladder.

 

[TomY]

here’s what I got- the stringers were done in coosa board. See below for reply as to planking.

Thanks, I was only kidding about the trips to the vee berth.

A wise old author once told me, "Humor seldom works in print".

I always remember his quote at times like this,.... as I recall what he was trying to say.

Almost forgot: You can let brightwork go gray, it just won't last any where near as long as it will if protected by a coating. "Gray wood" is sacrificial just like teak decks.

 

[Mr Fox]

I probably would have known that if I had more experience with woodworking. I had a good laugh from that one.

I’ll ask him about longevity; his recommendation is that a seasonal gentle cleaning that won’t ruin the soft spots between the grain, and ensuring that no seams or bungs allow water to get past them is all that’s needed for teak that doesn’t get stepped on.

He may be wrong, but given the fact that they make a lot more off me if they maintain my varnish, and that this guys been doing high end bright work, building and maintaining wooden boats for decades makes me not so quick to discount his advice, but maybe he’s aiming to replace all my teak instead