Setting up for slab reefing - cheek block position?

[RussC]

My Merit 22 has a single reef point in the (bolt rope in mast and boom) main sail, but no provision on the boom for reefing, so I'm setting up for simple slab reefing. every place I look seems to show the cheek block and fixed anchor mounted at a different angle from the lowered reef cringle, so I figure I'll ask here also . one common illustration shows the fixed end of the reef line almost vertical below the reefed cringle and the cheek block mounted back about 45*, I assume the theory being the fixed side of the reef line holds the foot of the sail down, wile the cheek block side pulls it back on the boom?? seems reasonable I guess?..... thoughts?
The other thing that peaked my interest is one site that mentioned mounting both the fixed point and cheek block on the same side of the boom so the bunt of the sail doesn't get bunched up beneath the reef at the rear of the boom. this seems to me a reasonable thought for a couple reasons. less sail wear and a neater reef, as well as allowing the reef point to set more consistent and lower on the boom. thoughts?

 

[dasreboot]

yes one pulls it down, the other pulls it back. mine comes from the wnd of the boom to a small block in the cringle, and back down to the boom just a tiny bit aft of the cringle.

 

[Charlie Jones s/v Tehani]

here's a pair of pics of mine

 

[DArcy]

Generally having one side close to straight down (slightly aft is ok) and the other about 45° is a good way to go. I would not put both on one side since that would put a lot of torque on the boom. I've never had much of a problem with the bunt getting in the way.

 

[RussC]

Generally having one side close to straight down (slightly aft is ok) and the other about 45° is a good way to go. I would not put both on one side since that would put a lot of torque on the boom. I've never had much of a problem with the bunt getting in the way.

I hadn't considered the torque placed on the boom, with both lines on the same side, but that could be a valid consideration. thanks for the input.

 

[shemandr]

Just keep in mind that flatening the sail is as important as reducing sail area - maybe more important.

 

[RussC]

Just keep in mind that flatening the sail is as important as reducing sail area - maybe more important.

Which is why I'd like to be as efficient as possible with reef lines, etc. . I know it's pretty much a hopeless endeavor, but we spend tons of time on trick haul backs, down-hauls, cunningham etc for sailing full sail, but then when a reef goes in that all goes out the window?? I think we can do better than that.

 

[Ron20324]

I would not put both on one side since that would put a lot of torque on the boom. I've never had much of a problem with the bunt getting in the way.

I hadn't considered the torque placed on the boom, with both lines on the same side, but that could be a valid consideration. thanks for the input.

I re-ran my two main reefing lines on either side of the sail. While at it, I ran them through the sheaves on their respective sides of the sail/boom. It helps "capture" the sail when reefing or dropping the sail in heavy winds.

 

[jssailem]

Russ. Note it is technique that makes these systems work.

You lower the main. Attach the main reef at the boom end of the mast. You then draw the reef back to the end of the boom.

• Because the sail is already lowered you are drawing the sail snug as a new foot. Not pulling the sail down to the boom.

When secure you raise the sail back to shape. and all is ready to sail.

 

[RussC]

Russ. Note it is technique that makes these systems work.

You lower the main. You then draw the reef back to the end of the boom.

• Because the sail is already lowered you are drawing the sail snug as a new foot. Not pulling the sail down to the boom.

When secure you now fasten reef at the mast.

When secure you raise the sail back to shape. and all is ready to sail.

I understand how it should work John. but... for example:......... My particular setup has an 8:1 haul back when full sail is set. it's useless when reefed. there is a cunningham above the cringle. have you ever seen one above a reef point? I guess a downhaul would still be effective on some setups, but the Merit, and many others, have the tack pinned to the mast and therefore in-effective anyway. It just seems like if these things are of value when full sail.... shouldn't they also be effective when reefed as well? but provisions are seldom seen or used. one of the suggestions shown above has the reef lines run vertically which can't provide any aft tension on the foot at all when reefed. I understand that some things just aren't practical to duplicate when reefed, but it needs to at least be as effective as it can be under those restriction. where we sail I reef (on the Macgregor) often and have never been shy about it. I'm just trying to get all I can out of what I have available on the Merit. I've passed by more than a couple boats on the Mac, when I'm reefed, who are fighting it with full sails up. I like the feeling . but I'm greedy. now I want to pass other boats who also have a reef in, but are poorly set up.

 

[jssailem]

Understand and the idea of getting the most possible makes perfect sense.

Can you load a picture of the sail and the reef points. The lines. The Cunningham location.

 

[shemandr]

...My particular setup has an 8:1 haul back when full sail is set. it's useless when reefed.... It just seems like if these things are of value when full sail.... shouldn't they also be effective when reefed as well? ...

Not really. The outhaul works with the full sail up. It does not with the sail reefed. The reefing line pulling aft on the sail replaces the outhaul. The halyard, vang, sheet and traveler all work the same full sail or reefed. The cunningham usually is buried in the reefed sail material and so is useless. If yours is above the reef cringle I guess you could use it.

 

[RussC]

Not really. The outhaul works with the full sail up. It does not with the sail reefed. The reefing line pulling aft on the sail replaces the outhaul. The halyard, vang, sheet and traveler all work the same full sail or reefed. The cunningham usually is buried in the reefed sail material and so is useless. If yours is above the reef cringle I guess you could use it.

Didn't I previously say all that? That was the whole point of my post, but apparently I didn't word it very well .
When I was setting up the reefing lines, on my new to me Merit 22, I was concerned with proper for and aft placement of the rear lines on the boom to ensure the most effective haul back when reefed. obviously the 8:1 that's available when full sail isn't available when reefed, but I wanted the most I could get from line placement.
it's OK. that ship has sailed now anyway, and I ended up placing the fixed end of the rear reefing line at about 1" aft of the reefed cringle and the cheek block side places the line at 45* aft of the reefed cringle. the vertical fixed side pulls the sail down to the boom and the other side hauls it back, so it's just 2:1 now (less in reality), but as an afterthought I may look at adding a floating block between the clam cleat and the cheek block to make it 4:1. but not today. today it's cold outside .

 

[DrJudyB]

Russ. Note it is technique that makes these systems work.

You lower the main. You then draw the reef back to the end of the boom.

• Because the sail is already lowered you are drawing the sail snug as a new foot. Not pulling the sail down to the boom.

When secure you now fasten reef at the mast.

When secure you raise the sail back to shape. and all is ready to sail.

I disagree. It’s imperative to fasten the reef at the mast before you tension the foot by pulling the aft reef line. Otherwise you risk damaging the mainsail luff above the reefing grommet, and if you have a reef horn at the luff, it will be very difficult if not impossible to get the gromment on the hook.

For reefing, the order of steps is

1 release controls that pull the boom or sail down: Vang, mainsheet, preventer
2 pull the boom end up if possible by lifting the topping lift
3 lower the main halyard to a predetermined mark and set the front reef to pull down and forward. If needed, re tighten the main halyard.
4. Tension the aft reef line so the new foot is flat
5. Release the topping lift
6. Retrim the mainsheet, Vang,
7. Tie the intermediate reef points if desired. If the main is loose footed, tie the buntlines under the foot of the sail, but not around the boom. If the foot has a bolt rope attaching it to the boom, tie the rbuntlines very loosely so that you don’t rip the intermediate reef points out.

 

[Scott T-Bird]

I don't always do this but after putting in a reef, I've simply detached the outhaul and connected it to the new clew. It has helped to flatten the sail at times and I don't know why you couldn't loosen it to give the sail a little more shape if wanted. Sure, it's an extra step but it's not that hard to do when the sail is inboard enough. Is there anything wrong with doing that? I'll have to admit that I don't usually think to tension the topping lift and release the vang.

 

[jssailem]

I stand corrected Ms Judy. My sequencing error is admitted. Thank you for the correction.