Oday 322 mast wiring

[David11038]

As soon as it is warm enough, I will be running new wiring for a wind transducer on my Oday 322 - I may also go ahead and rewire the masthead lighting at the same time. My question to other 322 owners is where is the wiring conduit in the cabin? I have only worked on keel stepped masts before (Oday 28) where the wiring runs through the bilge. However, with the deck stepped mast on the 322, I see the wiring harness on the deck and the wiring runs through a gasketed hole in the deck, but once inside the cabin, I can't see where the wiring goes. At the top of the compression post in the cabin, there is a panel that unscrews, but no wiring visible there.
Suggestions?

 

[Tally Ho]

Good question....I opened the panel on my O322, and cant see any wires in there either...

Curious to hear what others have found.

Greg

 

[Barnacle Bill]

There might not be. I have worked on boats for decades and sometimes you just have to figure out how to run wires and hide them at the same time.

 

[rajhnsn]

On the 35 there are channels in the bilge and along the sides below the windows and above the settees.

 

[DLB]

I'll check that's out

 

[BwWhisper]

I have a 1988 322 which has all wiring running down through the mast, compression post and into the bilge. Could not be sure it's all original but that's how its done. Lighting, radar,and VHF all pass through the bilge then up to the panel on port side passing under the water tank

 

[Mickstr]

Agree with BwWhisper, if you pick up the sole panels on either side of the base of the compression post, you'll find the wires coming down from the mast head. At least I do on my '87 322.

 

[AndreNJ11]

I had my mast down last year (2016). The mast wires in my boat come down through a hole in the middle of the mast in the center of the mast step plate, then down through the stainless compression post and out the side into the bilge, then through a connector bus in the bilge, then under the structural inner hull over to the port side where they come up behind the chart table to the electric panel. I replaced my connector bus in the bilge last year. See the attached pictures.

 

[David11038]

Great. Thanks for the detailed response. Hoping for a warm enough day in a week or two to go check it out.

 

[David11038]

I do have to add a question about the wisdom of ODay putting a connector bus in the bilge - isn't it sometimes wet down there?

 

[Justin_NSA]

I do have to add a question about the wisdom of ODay putting a connector bus in the bilge - isn't it sometimes wet down there?

You can tell it's pretty damp from the corrosion in the middle picture. Connections should probably be sealed and coated to prevent this.

 

[rajhnsn]

I added a bus bar because all of the connections were individually made up. It was a mess. I put the bar as high as possible and covered each connection with electrical grease and a plastic cover.

 

[jssailem]

I've been using a new product to me. Corrosion Block. It has worked wonders on all types of exposed metals - galvanized, stainless etc. As an example I had a master lock on the lazaret which after 6 months of marine air experience was starting to fail. Sprayed the stuff inside and out. No issues for over a year. I was amazed. Found it at our local chandler. Comes in both a spray and gel grease.

 

[David11038]

End of story (for now...), the mast wiring ran into the gasket in the deck and ran down the compression post in the cabin then down into the bilge area, from there it goes through a hole in the side of the bilge past the port water tank up to the wiring panel (as BW Whisperer described). It was a challenge involving washers and magnets and fish tape but ultimately a success.
Also found the channels under the portlights for running cabin lighting (and to install mounted fans). Current challenge is feeding NMEA 2000 cable (with its large fitting) for new Speed/depth/temp transducer in the vberth area. Using the existing wire from the old speed paddlewheel to pull it through. Unfortunately not going so well so far, going back to try a different approach this w/e.

 

[BwWhisper]

I had my mast down last year (2016). The mast wires in my boat come down through a hole in the middle of the mast in the center of the mast step plate, then down through the stainless compression post and out the side into the bilge, then through a connector bus in the bilge, then under the structural inner hull over to the port side where they come up behind the chart table to the electric panel. I replaced my connector bus in the bilge last year. See the attached pictures.

View attachment 132583 View attachment 132584 View attachment 132585

As long as you mentioned taking the mast down on your 322. I will be dropping mine when I haul out this fall. Do you have any tips or warnings for the 322? I have not dropped this mast before. There are lots of stays and the side plates are different than most.......BW

 

[AndreNJ11]

First - I hope you are hiring a marina to professionally drop the mast with a crane, it is way to big (in my opinion) to be handling yourself.

1 - take a picture and take notes on how all the connections are made in the bilge. Test each connection in advance to be sure you understand them.
2 - the marina (or you) will run a messenger line through the mast step tube when withdrawing all the mast wires from the mast support tube. This will easily allow to re-feed the mast wires back down the mast support and out the hole at the bottom when reinstalling the mast. The wires are about 6 feet long.
3 - I strongly recommend that you take this opportunity to replace the four main sheaves (2 back , 2 forward) supporting the main halyard, topping lift, spin halyard and jib halyard (unused due to CDI furler self contained halyard). They are now 30+ years old and will disintegrate any day (one of mine did at 25+ years. I had to remove the crumbling remains and run on the bare axle for the rest of the season). See my post on the part number to order from US Spars.
4 - I replaced my anchor light, steaming light and deck light fitting- all at this time. You can still buy Aqua Signal exact replacements. There is also no better time to put in an LED anchor light bulb.
5 - I did not replace my wiring as it all seemed OK, but you should inspect and consider that as well.
6 - If you plan in a future spinnaker, you may wish to consider adding a spin block to the spin bail with a messenger line for the spin sheet at this time.

Good luck with it.

Andre

 

[BwWhisper]

Thanks Andre' All of those hoints are on my list. Two sheaves are gone already, did you replace with aluminum or plastic?
Did you consider re-routing the wiring from bilge to the hull deck joint area, keeping the wiring out of the bilge?
How do you provide disconnet and re-connect for mast wiring?

 

[Justin_NSA]

Practical Sailor has good articles on making proper electrical connections. Best to use heat sealed connectors in wet areas.

Fighting Off Marine Electrical System Corrosion - Practical Sailor

Over the years, Practical Sailor has published numerous tests and reports that can help guide a boater through the most common marine electrical problems. In this blog post, Ill introduce the tools you will need for DIY electrical work, recap a couple of the more recent articles with links, and...

www.practical-sailor.com

 

[Tally Ho]

First - I hope you are hiring a marina to professionally drop the mast with a crane, it is way to big (in my opinion) to be handling yourself.

1 - take a picture and take notes on how all the connections are made in the bilge. Test each connection in advance to be sure you understand them.
2 - the marina (or you) will run a messenger line through the mast step tube when withdrawing all the mast wires from the mast support tube. This will easily allow to re-feed the mast wires back down the mast support and out the hole at the bottom when reinstalling the mast. The wires are about 6 feet long.
3 - I strongly recommend that you take this opportunity to replace the four main sheaves (2 back , 2 forward) supporting the main halyard, topping lift, spin halyard and jib halyard (unused due to CDI furler self contained halyard). They are now 30+ years old and will disintegrate any day (one of mine did at 25+ years. I had to remove the crumbling remains and run on the bare axle for the rest of the season). See my post on the part number to order from US Spars.
4 - I replaced my anchor light, steaming light and deck light fitting- all at this time. You can still buy Aqua Signal exact replacements. There is also no better time to put in an LED anchor light bulb.
5 - I did not replace my wiring as it all seemed OK, but you should inspect and consider that as well.
6 - If you plan in a future spinnaker, you may wish to consider adding a spin block to the spin bail with a messenger line for the spin sheet at this time.

Good luck with it.

Andre

@AndreNJ11, do you have a photo of you spin halyard setup (block on the bail)?

Mine is set up with appears to be an anchor roller...has to be a PO mod.

 

[AndreNJ11]

Thanks Andre' All of those hoints are on my list. Two sheaves are gone already, did you replace with aluminum or plastic?
Did you consider re-routing the wiring from bilge to the hull deck joint area, keeping the wiring out of the bilge?
How do you provide disconnet and re-connect for mast wiring?

Hi Whisper,

I replace with plastic sheaves. I figured if the first set lasted 25 years, the second set will outlast me.

I replaced the old corroded wire connector bus in the upper bilge with the new one as shown in the picture. I replaced all the corroded wire connector end fittings with new ones.
I do think if I was designing from scratch I would not put all that wiring in the bilge, but I did not want to get into an even bigger project so I just replaced all the fittings in the same location.

The VHF cable, i redid the connection with new shakespeare no-solder crimp-on fittings.