I was able to check my notes from commissioning and they indicate that I actually have a 120Amp Alternator but I can't find any references to my regulator. Everything was 2016 factory stock (circa August/September 2015) and while I can certainly contact Catalina via my dealer I figured I'd check here first. Can anyone confirm what the specs are for this alternator and what the stock regulator specs are for a 2016 Catalina 385?
Charging Voltage Question
- Thread starter Monterey385
- Start date
This is a Veleo 120 Amp internally regulated alternator. Search the internet with the model number (S639773A).
https://www.autopartswarehouse.com/...ies-and-components/alternator/valeo/vle439398
The search also shows up a lot of Yanmar references and since the alternator is Yanmar gray....
Thanks!! In light of Stu's post and information regarding regulators and acceptance, is there anything I should be sensitive to regarding the internal regulator given my 60/40 usage blend (Dock / Mooring&Cruising)?
Second question, if my batteries are currently gassing when recharging at the dock after a couple of days on the mooring or at anchor, would executing an equalization routine with my charger help address the issue or are the batteries in the final stages of their death spiral?
I'm asking because we are now in August and I have 2 months where I'll mostly be at the dock but I've noticed the smell of the gassing when sleeping aboard after returning to the dock after several days on the mooring or anchor. I'm thinking that its not good to be inhaling the fumes. They have been strong enough to set off my carbon monoxide monitors twice in the last month (and no, there was no source of CO).
Your regulator is internal and a typical automotive type. The good news is there is a kit for that alternator, to covert it to external regulation. It is a pretty easy job to do and gets you into external regulation for much less money than a performance alternator and external regulator... All you need is the conversion kit and a Balmar MC-614H or ARS-5H...
Yanmar / Valeo External Regualtion Conversion Kit
One additional set of observations today ... after a night on the mooring with the refrigerators running all night but followed with a 3 hour motoring transit home (there was very little wind) ... upon returning to the dock and reconnecting to dockside electricity, my ProNautic 1230P reported the batteries were at 14.2 ... then within about 20 minutes brought them to 14.7 at 30 amps and then slowly reduced voltage. There was no apparent gassing.
I'm increasingly convinced that I have to address the regulator.
I'm increasingly convinced that I have to address the regulator.
jssailem
SBO Weather and Forecasting Forum Jim & John
- Oct 22, 2014
- 22,290
And the student is becoming the teacher. Such wisdom you speak.
Yes, the internal regulator could well be an issue. Also check the charging specs for your batteries. 14.7 v for bulk charging seems a little low. What size battery bank do you have?
Also, check the water levels in the batteries.
I know the original post was a bit dated ... but I had to write a major thank you to everyone.
During the off-season I did a major battery revamp. While I originally thought I had 420 amp hours, it was closer to 320 and after 5 seasons it was probably closer to 160. My house batteries were wired properly but my start battery was not. We added an ACR, a Victronix monitor on the House Bank and a Victronix Smart Regulator on the Engine battery. I added two 4D AGMs and replaced my Engine Start battery with an AGM (no more gassing). We now have 380 Amp hours. We also rewired the battery switches so I don't have to start the engine from the house bank.
Last season, after about 4 hours our electronics would stop working and the house couldn't start the engine without switching to the engine battery. Yesterday, after a 5 hour sail, we had used less than 5% of the bank. The alternator is working just fine. I'm able to see the absorbtion phase working. Now with the engine battery setup properly all it does is start the engine and get replenished ... the house does the house thing and gets recharged via the ACR.
My one observation is that I am amazed at how much amperage the bow thruster draws (its on the house bank). Since the engine is running at very low RPM when I use the bow thruster (while docking) one of the things I didn't realize was how much of a tax I was putting on my batteries right before shutting down. (In 5-6 years when I do the next battery revamp, I will be isolating the bow-thruster on its own battery or perhaps putting it on the engine battery ... and hence the planning for the next round begins -
.
I am elated. Now I have all of the information I need and I have a much better understanding of exactly what is going on. I couldn't have done this without this group. Thank you all.
Kev
During the off-season I did a major battery revamp. While I originally thought I had 420 amp hours, it was closer to 320 and after 5 seasons it was probably closer to 160. My house batteries were wired properly but my start battery was not. We added an ACR, a Victronix monitor on the House Bank and a Victronix Smart Regulator on the Engine battery. I added two 4D AGMs and replaced my Engine Start battery with an AGM (no more gassing). We now have 380 Amp hours. We also rewired the battery switches so I don't have to start the engine from the house bank.
Last season, after about 4 hours our electronics would stop working and the house couldn't start the engine without switching to the engine battery. Yesterday, after a 5 hour sail, we had used less than 5% of the bank. The alternator is working just fine. I'm able to see the absorbtion phase working. Now with the engine battery setup properly all it does is start the engine and get replenished ... the house does the house thing and gets recharged via the ACR.
My one observation is that I am amazed at how much amperage the bow thruster draws (its on the house bank). Since the engine is running at very low RPM when I use the bow thruster (while docking) one of the things I didn't realize was how much of a tax I was putting on my batteries right before shutting down. (In 5-6 years when I do the next battery revamp, I will be isolating the bow-thruster on its own battery or perhaps putting it on the engine battery ... and hence the planning for the next round begins -
.I am elated. Now I have all of the information I need and I have a much better understanding of exactly what is going on. I couldn't have done this without this group. Thank you all.
Kev
Glad that you have a setup that’s working well for you now.I know the original post was a bit dated ... but I had to write a major thank you to everyone.
During the off-season I did a major battery revamp. While I originally thought I had 420 amp hours, it was closer to 320 and after 5 seasons it was probably closer to 160. My house batteries were wired properly but my start battery was not. We added an ACR, a Victronix monitor on the House Bank and a Victronix Smart Regulator on the Engine battery. I added two 4D AGMs and replaced my Engine Start battery with an AGM (no more gassing). We now have 380 Amp hours. We also rewired the battery switches so I don't have to start the engine from the house bank.
Last season, after about 4 hours our electronics would stop working and the house couldn't start the engine without switching to the engine battery. Yesterday, after a 5 hour sail, we had used less than 5% of the bank. The alternator is working just fine. I'm able to see the absorbtion phase working. Now with the engine battery setup properly all it does is start the engine and get replenished ... the house does the house thing and gets recharged via the ACR.
My one observation is that I am amazed at how much amperage the bow thruster draws (its on the house bank). Since the engine is running at very low RPM when I use the bow thruster (while docking) one of the things I didn't realize was how much of a tax I was putting on my batteries right before shutting down. (In 5-6 years when I do the next battery revamp, I will be isolating the bow-thruster on its own battery or perhaps putting it on the engine battery ... and hence the planning for the next round begins -
I am elated. Now I have all of the information I need and I have a much better understanding of exactly what is going on. I couldn't have done this without this group. Thank you all.
Kev
Regarding the thruster, even though it’s very high current it’s probably not much of a real tax in terms of amp hours. My thruster is fused at 500 A, which is a lot of current. But it only runs for about 10 seconds or less per docking. That’s really only about 1.4 aH, even if it’s using the max fused current the whole time. The engine is also running at those times, so it should be able to carry at least some of that load.
Beneteau did put a dedicated group 27 battery under the V berth for the thruster. That helps handle the load, and especially helps keep the wiring size manageable. Having wires big enough to carry 500 amps the length of the boat with acceptable voltage loss must be tough.