You are welcome, but don't just take my word for it. I'm sure the crew here will speak out as well. I never got to that point. My plastic housing/gland system wouldn't drip at all like it is supposed to and it wasn't tight. I was either going to replace the plastic with a bronze housing or go dripless and I chose the latter.Thanks, Justin. That's what I suspected.
If you can't tighten the gland any more and it drips while the motor isn't running, then indeed it is time to repack the gland.
Just to clarify, the locking nut is as far back as possible correct? You don't see any more threads?Back to drip rate; I'm getting 7-10 drips per minute NOT underway (i.e., tied up at dock with motor off). Locking nut flush against packing gland. Does that mean time to repack?
Just because I hate water in the boat I wouldn't take all the old packing out while in the water. There is nothing wrong with backing out the nut and adding a couple of rings of packing ,however.Can the packing be changed while the boat is in the water?
Some owners do this, but I suspect that they are organized enough and experienced enough that they can do it in XX number of minutes. Note that sea water will be flowing in around the shaft while you work. If you have a decent electric bilge pump it should keep up with the ingress. After all, the area for water entry is about a quarter inch around the exterior of the shaft, maybe a bit more. I would haul the boat instead... but if a long ways from home... "you do what you gotta do".So, here's the next question. Can the packing be changed while the boat is in the water?
Based on the information it sounds like you have tightened the stuffing nut fully and it is dripping more than 1 drop a minute while the shift is turning. It is dripping while the shaft is standing still.Does that mean time to repack?
Answer is yes. but be prepared to have water coming into the boat. You can minimize the flow with rags and even a string wrapped around the shaft and pushed back against the shaft log. But you will get water intrusion and you should assure your bilge pump is fully functioning. Prepare to get your hands wet as you work at removing the old stuffing. You can google this process and there are YouTube instructional videos on the subject, even the string theory trick.Can the packing be changed while the boat is in the water?
Yes. Depending on your access.So, here's the next question. Can the packing be changed while the boat is in the water?
I think you should go to the sails call page if you are going to bring up string theory.even the string theory trick.
While that's true with our Beneteau's, most other brands use strut mounted prop shafts, where the cutless is not in the hull. Still, I've read plenty of reports from people who can do it in the water, with some good preparation as you say.My case not Much water came in..... remember the cutless bearing limits flow so not much comes in.
Actually this was with my Pearson that had a traditional box and strut base cutlass and non hull cutlass..... got confused. But minimal water came in none the less.....While that's true with our Beneteau's, most other brands use strut mounted prop shafts, where the cutless is not in the hull. Still, I've read plenty of reports from people who can do it in the water, with some good preparation as you say.
Cutlass bearing only limits flow if it is in the stern tube...not if it is mounted in a strut back by the propeller. Like on your Bene, but not on my O’Day 322...and probably not on the OP’s Hunter.Change the packing. You can do it while in the water..... I had a small shop vac next to me and a ready rag to ebb the flow. However in
My case not Much water came in..... remember the cutless bearing limits flow so not much comes in. Open it up but make sure you have all the tools ready to dig. Measure and precut your packing
Good luck!
Greg