Alternative to Split Rings

[Joe]

Please do not use quick pins on any standing rigging. I remember reading it somewhere that it is an unsafe situation.

Well, I guess I've been doing it wrong on my beach cat for 25 years... Reading it "somewhere" isn't a strong enough caution. If there was a disclaimer on the product... then that would make me think.

I have used a "quick pin" to hold the forestay for years... it has a wire lanyard(or is it pendant?) to keep it attached to the fitting. A while back I invested in this push button model, drilled a hole for the pendant... it offers a bit more security because you can't pull it out without pushing the button.

On the shrouds I use pin hole shroud adjusters.... they use clevis pins and rings but I leave them attached unless I'm completely dismantling the boat. Wouldn't mind having something like this: Ooohh... look they come with quick pins...

 

[All U Get]

Tomorrow I'm off to Walmart for a pair of pliers and a new screwdriver.

 

[JimInPB]

...
I have used a "quick pin" to hold the forestay for years... it has a wire lanyard(or is it pendant?) to keep it attached to the fitting. A while back I invested in this push button model, drilled a hole for the pendant... it offers a bit more security because you can't pull it out without pushing the button...

I have had very good luck with those push button quick pins in situations where they go into a snug fitting hole & they are not directly exposed to salt water splashing. Once salt gets inside them & crusts up, they become pretty close to being a solid object.

 

[Ron20324]

Tomorrow I'm off to Walmart for a pair of pliers and a new screwdriver.

Let me know if you find them. I'm going to a Wally in a couple weeks. I thought I had the pliers, but it turns out they are for Panduit cutting. Not quite the right shape for rings. But the again, I've always managed.

 

[jibes138]

Try using seizing (safety) wire. Just cut it off with wire cutters when done. A spool goes a long way.

 

[Joe]

I have had very good luck with those push button quick pins in situations where they go into a snug fitting hole & they are not directly exposed to salt water splashing. Once salt gets inside them & crusts up, they become pretty close to being a solid object.

Yep, gotta rinse them down with fresh water regularly. Stay working better when used a lot. Like your outboard motor, the more you run it the better it runs.... same with these critters..

 

[JimInPB]

Yep, gotta rinse them down with fresh water regularly. Stay working better when used a lot. Like your outboard motor, the more you run it the better it runs.... same with these critters..

A little oil inside them once in a while doesn't hurt either.

 

[Swabby Third Class]

Reviving this older post… new to sailing and have already discovered I can’t stand ring dings/split rings. The dexterity required to put a 1/2“ split ring on a 3/8”W x 3/4”L pin is just insane. I’m trying different quick-connectors like safety coupler pins and lock pin shackles. I like the lock pin shackles, as there are several on the boat already. The safety couplers work well but are too long. I may try cutting them down and bending the safety lock over a bit. This is daysailing on a lake in an 18’ in 5 to 10 conditions, so no heavy stress on the rig. We‘ve only taken the boat out twice so far, but became obsessed with reducing rig/de-rig time on my trailer sailer immediately!

 

[jssailem]

Hi @Swabby Third Class I can understand the challenges with split rings. Generally they work on fittings that remain mostly connected on a semi permanent basis.
A good alternative to use on items that are open and closed frequently are soft shackles.
At less than $5 if you have to pay for the dyneema line and 20 minutes of your time you can make a coupling that has a break strength of 5000 lbs. It weighs nearly nothing. Is extremely easy to install or remove.

 

[dLj]

Reviving this older post… new to sailing and have already discovered I can’t stand ring dings/split rings. The dexterity required to put a 1/2“ split ring on a 3/8”W x 3/4”L pin is just insane. I’m trying different quick-connectors like safety coupler pins and lock pin shackles. I like the lock pin shackles, as there are several on the boat already. The safety couplers work well but are too long. I may try cutting them down and bending the safety lock over a bit. This is daysailing on a lake in an 18’ in 5 to 10 conditions, so no heavy stress on the rig. We‘ve only taken the boat out twice so far, but became obsessed with reducing rig/de-rig time on my trailer sailer immediately!
View attachment 235356
View attachment 235357

I would move to the lock pin shackles over the safety couplers. There are a couple reasons. The tolerances between the shackle body and the pin are a better fit, I think you'd be hard pressed to get those same tolerances using a safety coupler. Secondly, that safety coupler makes for a great snag point for lines.

Using soft shackles in this application would not likely be very easy to implement. It's hard to avoid variation in the closed position and dyneema tends to creep so they will stretch. Plus you probably have hard corners where they would need to be attached - dyneema does not play well with those. If you wanted to go that route - you'd likely have to make attachment points for the soft shackles which would be a big job.

dj

 

[Swabby Third Class]

Thanks for the quick responses! The soft shackles, while a great idea and inexpensive, won’t work for the pins and ring dings I’m replacing: roller furler attachment and shroud chainplates. I’ve ordered two of the lock pin shackles to try them out. Agree about the safety couplers, although on this boat, there are no lines nearby that can snag. Stepping the mast does cause them to bind a bit, but then they sit and behave themselves. Doesn’t look as elegant as the pins and ring dings, but I believe in function over fashion.

 

[pgandw]

The scar pins (I call them velcro pins) are the cat's meow for a trailer sailor. When I bought my current boat (Mariner 19) it already had most of a set of the velcro pins. I realized how much of an improvement they were over split rings, and completed the set for turnbuckles on all 4 stays (and bought a couple of extras). Defender has them in several sizes, only the smallest size worked on all my turnbuckles. Spendy but well worth the money. No tools needed, just apply after you get the turnbuckle at the right setting. Infinitely reusable - most of mine have been out in the sun for 6 years without issue other than a little fading. After years of notched finger nails trying to make split rings work, cotter pins breaking and/or needing pliers to pull, the velcro pins were a blessing. And no snags either.

Fred W
ODay/Stuart Mariner Sweet P

 

[Swabby Third Class]

Fred, is this what you use? I tried the Defender link to find them, but it just goes to a catalog page. Didn’t show these.

 

[pgandw]

That is what I use, made by CS Johnson. Called CS Johnson Hook and Loop Locking Wrap Pin. Pic from Defender attached. I use the smallest size, 3 sizes listed.

Fred W
Stuart (ODay) Mariner Sweet P

 

[LLoyd B]

I pretty much carry my keys with me whenever I'm out and around most of the keys has a thin bit near the end of one key. Whenever I need to open a split key ring I use a existing key to do it, if I don't have my wire strippers in my back pocket. Came to mind if using my car/house keys as a tool on the boat there might be jeopardy involved losing a stainless steel key ring overboard. I was surprised to find all my split rings are magnetic when I checked that.

 

[dLj]

I pretty much carry my keys with me whenever I'm out and around most of the keys has a thin bit near the end of one key. Whenever I need to open a split key ring I use a existing key to do it, if I don't have my wire strippers in my back pocket. Came to mind if using my car/house keys as a tool on the boat there might be jeopardy involved losing a stainless steel key ring overboard. I was surprised to find all my split rings are magnetic when I checked that.

Of course they are - they are all cold worked austenitic stainless steel... Otherwise they wouldn't have the spring back needed...

dj

 

[Swabby Third Class]

That is what I use, made by CS Johnson. Called CS Johnson Hook and Loop Locking Wrap Pin. Pic from Defender attached. I use the smallest size, 3 sizes listed.

View attachment 235359

Fred W
Stuart (ODay) Mariner Sweet P

Ah! I was wondering why you called them “velcro pins”! They really ARE velcro. Duh! i might try some of those…

 

[sailme88]

At our club where we step and unstep each other's masts, we insist on ring pins. We have found that swizzle stick straws ( that's right like what a bar tender puts in a cocktail) is easily slid over the end of a ring clip. It acts as a fairlead and is removed after the pin is into the desired location..

 

[Rick Webb]

A pair of forceps is what I use when I am planning on attaching ring dings. If is not something I thought, I'd be doing I just use my pocketknife to get it separated and then started.

 

[capta]

Please do not use quick pins on any standing rigging. I remember reading it somewhere that it is an unsafe situation. The toggle pins are good for the headstay. For the mainsheet you might want to think of something like a snap shackle to speed up installation.

Sea-Dog Line Toggle Snap Shackle

Where on the main sheet would you use a snap shackle?